60 replies to this topic

[BRUSHED]

Yeah I'm hearing ya mate but we still don't cruise in our cars haha

[bazeng]

Thats because the manuals keep breaking. Haha.

Sent from my E6853 using Tapatalk

[BRUSHED]

Haha yes they do

[vr401]

Why don't we chip that tcu?

[bazeng]

That is the plan. Just going to get it running to obtain shift points required. Unless you think it can be done prior?

I'm planning to rewire the blue wire to my ecu also. At WOT it will trigger the relay which will activate the blue wire mod giving full pressure. Off wot it will retain the standard pressure that the tcu is targeting.

Let me know your thoughts.

[leadfoot]

Would you mot be able to do that via a momentary switch on the accelerator pedal or a voltage switch attached to the tps.

Momentary on throttle when wot trigger the seitch and blue wire or for 15 bucks ill send you the jaycar voltage relay switch that i built to trigger mivec off the tps signal at wot dial in a tps voltage between 1 and 5v and the relay turns on.its also a 1 or the other relay so you could plug in the blue wire and run like factory when under wot and the flip it an earth when you need

[bazeng]

That would work well but my Ecu can use the tps signal to do that already. Is an autronic so plenty of unused outputs available. Plus then I can program it to see wot and engine temp and trans temp before it allows high pressure shifts etc.

[leadfoot]

Well thats good

[bazeng]

Well thats good

You running auto yourself? I'm hoping the blue wire mod makes the stock shift slug feeling improves significantly.

[bazeng]

Old box out!

[bazeng]

F4a22 e39a galant gsr box vs f4a33 tr Magna box

[leadfoot]

Nah not running aut also the f4a33 is also found in auto cc lancers

[Rockabilly]

That is the plan. Just going to get it running to obtain shift points required. Unless you think it can be done prior?

I'm planning to rewire the blue wire to my ecu also. At WOT it will trigger the relay which will activate the blue wire mod giving full pressure. Off wot it will retain the standard pressure that the tcu is targeting.

Let me know your thoughts.

Pressure rises with rpm. Your WOT pressure is your max. Adjust that valve body allen bolt to a 3mm gap.

A resistor on the blue wire is to make the PCS stop bleeding slightly earlier.

eg: At say 3k std the PCS bleeds off for 2sec & zero at 6k

Ad a resistor prob makes it bleed for 1.5sec at 3k & >>> zero at 6k

TCU remapping the min upshift points higher like mine = gear shift speeds as if you were driving a Manual mild

Aldo

Edited by Rockabilly, 05 July 2016 - 12:07 AM.

[bazeng]

Nah not running aut also the f4a33 is also found in auto cc lancers

Which lancers?

[bazeng]

Pressure rises with rpm. Your WOT pressure is your max. Adjust that valve body allen bolt to a 3mm gap.
A resistor on the blue wire is to make the PCS stop bleeding slightly earlier.
eg: At say 3k std the PCS bleeds off for 2sec & zero at 6k
Ad a resistor prob makes it bleed for 1.5sec at 3k & >>> zero at 6k
TCU remapping the min upshift points higher like mine = gear shift speeds as if you were driving a Manual mild
Aldo

So that adjustment you were referring to its the reducing pressure? I did see that on the valve body but didn't adjust dammit. Sump already sealed. I'll do it next time. Unless you think it is something worth doing? I was thinking I had to adjust the other one on the top of the valve body which required removal.

[leadfoot]

Which lancers?

Cc fwd 1.8l auto sedan or wagon

[vr401]

That is the plan. Just going to get it running to obtain shift points required. Unless you think it can be done prior?
I'm planning to rewire the blue wire to my ecu also. At WOT it will trigger the relay which will activate the blue wire mod giving full pressure. Off wot it will retain the standard pressure that the tcu is targeting.
Let me know your thoughts.

If you copy the bin of that tcu eprom I can look into it.

[bazeng]

The box is in the car . I'm having clearance issues. Seems like it is a 2G dsm style box but without the mounts on the bell housing.

There are a few options but I'm hoping that it is a change of engine brackets (front and rear). I'll need to make custom upper gearbox mount either on the gearbox side or chassis side. Then I'll need 27 spline cups into the front diff to mate to stock axels.

Clearance from TC to flex plate is good (about 5mm).

Lucky I have a heap of engine brackets on the shelf. I think I have the right combo to make it clear the k frame. The existing F4a22 brackets foul the rear kframe and side chassis rail .

Wish me luck.

[bazeng]

More photos

Clearance issues.

Here are the mounts on the left . I'll be using the longer rear bracket and shorter front bracket to bring the engine forwards away from the kframe.

[bazeng]

Ok so I got it all to fit. The front roll stopper had to be swapped to a shorter one ( picture above... 2nd to the left)..

The rear block bracket stayed as per F4a22 which is the far left bracket in the picture above..

I had to change the mount on the kframe though to a shorter one..

This fixed all clearance issues..

Now I just need to finish welding the top trans mount to chassis..
I used a Vr4 Base plate and a Magna bush section to line it all up.. Now to Weld..

Then getting towed tomorrow to Havoc Fabrications to touch up the exhaust, redo the cold side intercooler pipe (transmission too big , needs new route), intake pipe, maybe redo airbag and catch can setup.. also adding a mid muffler or resonator.. Not far now.