126 replies to this topic

[evo-gsr]

Throttle body shaft seals which is what you guys are referring to, are a very common source of leaks. They are able to be purchased separately to replace them.

[deepsouth]

ahh excellent, thanks evo-gsr!

[deepsouth]

Had a quick look mine is leaking from what appears to be throttle idle screw area, I reckon that o-ring is cactus.

Edited by deepsouth, 11 August 2014 - 11:30 AM.

[penngwyne]

Mine sounds like it's coming from the opposite end of the shaft

[penngwyne]

Throttle body shaft seals which is what you guys are referring to, are a very common source of leaks. They are able to be purchased separately to replace them.

 

Any drawings or instructions about pulling theTB apart?

[jack be nimble]

I have some seals in a for sale thread. I reversrd the seals when I fitted mine as they are fitted for vacuum leaks not boost leaks.
And the idle screw should have a plug. I just cleaned where the plug goes with a little wire brush and filled the plug hole with silicone. Fixed. Its not like you need to adjust it much.

[jack be nimble]

There is vfaq about tb rebuilds.

[penngwyne]

Where did you get the hose from and do you happen to know the part numbers or can point me in the right direction, mine is due for a replacement.

Thanks

 

Sorry I missed this one

I guess you have the hose by now?

[penngwyne]

OK Throttle body seals replaced and not so much whistling noise

Found this which is not bad, just slightly different in a couple of areas

http://ca.dsm.org/FA...shaftseals.html

 

The bit about the screw ends being peened over is true for the RVR
You don't just unscrew them, you very carefully grind the peened thread end flush with the shaft first, before even trying to unscrew them.

This preserves the threads in the shaft. (I used a dremmel with a small conical grinding wheel) 

 

I tried a couple of things but finally needed an impact driver to get the screws out (obviously while firmly supporting the shaft so it didn't bend) They are really tight.

If they don't come out easily, (and they probably wont) trust me, that is the way to go before you totally stuff the Phillips head screws.
I would hate to have to drill them out.

 

A couple of new M4 x 0.7 x 10mm screws went in easily, I used blue wicking thread locker and peened the threads over, supporting the head of the screw.
(You certainly don't want the little suckers coming out)

 

WORD OF WARNING:  

Don't peen the threads or loctite the screws (or even tighten them hard as they do lock in tight)

until you are absolutely sure that you have the throttle plate in the right place or else your spring will open the throttle instead of closing it.

( I did a trial assembly and i had it wrong even though I had marked everything. It is easy to get confused. )

 

and the seals are quite delicate so be careful when you put them in as the metal bit bends very easily if they are not lined up

Edited by penngwyne, 28 October 2014 - 02:41 PM.

[jack be nimble]

I still have seals left over.

[penngwyne]

Final check found a leak at the o ring mentioned before, replaced and all seems well now

System now holds pressure OK with a very slow reduction over a few minutes

 

Replaced front strut caps as the rubber in one of them was staring to separate from the metal around the top

Looks like I might have to replace the front shocks as well as there seems to be some fluid leaking bugger

Naracoorte autos let me use their new u beaut bench mounted spring compressor and it was a lot easier and quicker (and safer too)

 

Never a dull moment is there???/

Edited by penngwyne, 03 November 2014 - 02:15 PM.

[evo-gsr]

Question being......are you actually getting to the end of all the things that need fixing?

[penngwyne]

I still have seals left over.

 

Sorry Jack, seals arrived before I saw your message

 

 

Question being......are you actually getting to the end of all the things that need fixing?

 

Doesn't look like it yet.  Still thinking about replacing struts. The front end isn't bouncy yet so it may be all right for a while. Still pulling the struts out isn't too hard, just have to do wheel alignment again.

 

Looking at KYB and trying to work out some prices

 

This doesn't look bad for OEM but I may have to order more than 2???

 

http://en.gforcepart...arch?q=MR333574

 

BTW I didn't know the LH strut had an eccentric bolt for adjustment. I do now. Needed a bit of wriggling to get in and out. Was tempted to hit it with a hammer but glad I didn't.

Edited by penngwyne, 05 November 2014 - 04:32 AM.

[penngwyne]

There is vfaq about tb rebuilds.

 

Thanks Jack

 

This is the one I found somwhere in the forums, and it is still supported.

 

http://ca.dsm.org/FA...shaftseals.html

[penngwyne]

No still not finished!

 

Chasing another annoying sort of rumbling in a tin tank noise.

Using the ear on the end of a long screwdriver chased it down to the a/c tensioner pulley rumbling.

 

I had previously replaced the pulley bearing and when I took it out was stiff to turn (which I vaguely remember was the same when it was new)

The new bearing has a c3 marking on the box and spins quite freely

 

I didn't know there were different types of ball bearings!  I do now.

 

Still learning at this late stage in life!

[penngwyne]

Despite the long silence I'm still here.
I'm looking for info about the BOV on the RVR

Still chasing a slight whistle when under boost and find that the BOV (original plastic one) leaks under pressure.

Doing a leak test with all the BOV pipes still connected to keep the valve closed.

More pressure -  more leaking

I assume this is not meant to happen and wonder what the forum guru's would suggest as a replacement.

I basically want a "plug in" replacement çoz i can't be bothered to rearrange the plumbing

[CLuTZ]

EVO 8 MR

[evo-gsr]

What he said ^

[Benzo4gT]

They work perfectly, it holds more boost than my turbo will ever make, or more accurately, than my engine will put up with. Here's a link to ebay

 

http://www.ebay.com....94AAOxy4fBTk936

[evo-gsr]

What a ripoff !! ^