126 replies to this topic

[penngwyne]

They work perfectly, it holds more boost than my turbo will ever make, or more accurately, than my engine will put up with. Here's a link to ebay

 

http://www.ebay.com....94AAOxy4fBTk936

 

What a ripoff !! ^

 

Thanks Jack and Evo and Benzo for the info

 

OK why is this a rip off?? How much better can you do for new bits??Where from??

 

I looked up on Parts Souk and Amayama Trading

The original plastic ones for the RVR are about $70.00 (MR266992)

Most of the others that look about right range from about $140 to $160 but I'm having a bit of a guess at the part numbers

All for a CT9A Lancer Cedia/ EVO-8/8-MR/9/9-MR(GSR)

MB868799 (or MN156641)  about $140 (plus freight)

MR450378 is about $160 (plus freight)

MN153284 approx $140 up to $156 (plus freight)

Edited by penngwyne, 17 February 2016 - 03:27 PM.

[penngwyne]

Question being......are you actually getting to the end of all the things that need fixing?

 

Not yet obviously but I keep trying.

Still the car is about 18 years old now so one must expect some bits to wear out, but hopefully not fall off, or make loud bangs, or quiet phuts (not a real word but descriptive) and just stop working.

 

One day I will try and get the inside a bit tidier as the drivers seat RHS squab is definitely a lot out of shape and the fabric is wearing a bit so a hole is appearing. A lot of the inside trim is badly scratched and looks bad. I need to be a bit more enthusiastic about it.

 

I have a BMW 5 series in the shed to get up and running before I can get stuck into the RVR too much. (I need something to drive)

Edited by penngwyne, 17 February 2016 - 03:49 PM.

[BYBY5L]

I might know of an e8 bov for $100ish, pm me if ya want me to grab it,

[penngwyne]

I might know of an e8 bov for $100ish, pm me if ya want me to grab it,

PM sent

[penngwyne]

What a ripoff !! ^

 

Still wondering why??

[BYBY5L]

Ebay item number #262314577800
At auction for $40+ postage, worth a bid

[penngwyne]

I'm an impatient .....  wanted it now so paid for the pleasure.

Think it's fixed now

[BYBY5L]

yhats alright, coincidentally 20 minutes after I posted it on here a bid was put on it,

[penngwyne]

Tinny metallic scraping noise which stopped and I can't see anything wrong (yet)

(I have been only faintly hearing an underlying noise like something revolving and making a metallic contact but finally just turned the radio up. That fixed it.)
Maybe it was a timing cover bolt that I lost many, many months ago finally falling out around the aircon compressor?

I hope so anyway

Paranoid again!

Edited by penngwyne, 22 March 2016 - 01:07 PM.

[penngwyne]

Maybe that noise I heard was something more important?

Now have an intermittent squealing drive belt which I think is the A/C belt
All belts were old so replaced them (not with Mitsi ones one of which was $125, the whole AM set cost less than that)

Might get away with a service and gas even though it seems to work OK, apparently low gas can cause lubrication problems.

Anyway first things first, belt off, check and maybe replace a bearing in the pulley?

Then  a service, which, I almost bet, has never ever been done.

[penngwyne]

Also going to replace two perished rubber mounts on the rear torsion bar

 

Old cars need attention

Edited by penngwyne, 18 May 2016 - 02:43 PM.

[Django]

If it's air con compressors bearing, the air con compressors idler bearing was shagged in mine when I had it. it made a noise really similar to the motor pinging when I would hit WOT. Eventually I could hear it at idle and majority of the time driving. An air con shop will have the right tool for it, you can unbolt the compressor, leave it connected, and fit the tool easily enough from underneath. Low gas will just make the pressure switch stop the compressor being turned on. If you have no cold air and can still turn the air con on (compressor engages) you will need a new switch.

 

I also changed the bearing on the air con belt idler and the alternator bearing. Idler bearing was shagged, alternator was getting bad. Engine had 140K.

Edited by Django, 19 May 2016 - 01:16 PM.

[penngwyne]

Aircon pulley bearing is shot. Pulley has some sideways slop.

Question is....  A/C man suggests that if pulley bearing is gone the a/c is probably stuffed too.

Toying with the idea of replacing the pulley bearing but am i wasting my time? 

Still my time is cheaper than $80 per hour. 

How long do a/c last, mine is also up to 140K ?

If I replace the a/c compressor it should see me out if it lasts 150K but it will COST.

 

 

I also changed the bearing on the air con belt idler and the alternator bearing. Idler bearing was shagged, alternator was getting bad. Engine had 140K.

 

Alternator is also another probability on mine too, I've been too lazy to look and it's cold outside ATM

The joys of owning old (but interesting ) cars

[Django]

Well get him to put some dye in the system after you replace the bearing to check for leaks. I'd check the compressor engages firstly by bypassing the pressure switch, pretty sure you just stick a wire between the two terminals on the plug to the low pressure switch, I'm not 100% on whether these have a high pressure switch as well so just do the test on both if you see two on the lines. Otherwise, get real crude and jump it (compressor) straight to the battery via a switch with engine running

Mine still had gas and worked fine, just get the thing to fire up first. Most air con people will just tell you to get a new fuckin everything because no-one uses their fuckin brain anymore...

 

Have a crack at getting it running. Take it to someone if you can't get it going yourself to be absolutely sure. If it fires up, go ahead and put a new clutch pulley bearing in there. Then get the bloke to put some dye in the system first gas, go back, check for leaks (UV light). Replace anything that needs to be. Good to go.

 

If no go, bite the bullet. Compressors are touch and go around 150k you can never be sure if they're any good. But Mitsi had half decent compressors in most of em. Good luck with it mate

[evo-gsr]

If the system doesnt hold the gas then the pressure switch will not allow the compressor to turn on.

[penngwyne]

As far as I can tell the a/c was working OK just has a stuffed bearing in the pulley

Magnetic clutch pulls in just fine

[penngwyne]

Interesting again

Alternator belt squeals when a/c is turned on.

No a/c belt ATM just pulled in the a/c clutch 

Maybe I was chasing the wrong belt?

I will do the a/c pulley bearing and have the gas checked. 

Finding a replacement A/C compressor on the interweb is very difficult, so I will hope I don't have to.

I will look hard for identifying numbers on the compressor when I undo it.

I shouldn't get under this car, I can see a possible oil leak and am thinking of the seal I forgot to do (bugger)

 

Most air con people will just tell you to get a new fuckin everything because no-one uses their fuckin brain anymore...

 

Trouble is at $85 / hr cost mounts up rapidly. Young bloke at A/C place told me a job he did on his own car a/c would have finished up costing $4,000 if he'd had it done at work

[penngwyne]

OK i've had a look underneath and shuddered

How the f.. do I get the AC compressor out?

AND if I can get it out how do I get another one?

It's a Denso 15C  447200-0365 which isn't listed on the Australian Denso site wouldn't you know?

[Django]

Thats a Denso 10pa, 15c variant, they put them in the w202 mercs, but have different flanges on them. you can get one here if you've got to get another one, just bolt on your pulley etc.

 

 

http://www.ebay.com....gsAAOSwaNBUdSq6

 

 

You can also rebuild these easily enough, there's plenty of videos on youtube and seal kits are cheap

 

If you just want to do the clutch bearing, you can leave all the lines attached and unbolt the compressor from the block, pull the front of the compressor down and do the job with lines still connected...

Edited by Django, 19 June 2016 - 05:12 PM.

[Django]

I did mention how to do it before...

 

An air con shop will have the right tool for it, you can unbolt the compressor, leave it connected, and fit the tool easily enough from underneath.

 

You don't need the stupid tool like for Sanden compressors so it's all good

 

This idiot even gives you an easy run through how to