36 replies to this topic

[turbovr4]

As you all know I have the MGB with the VR4 motor in it 4g63 G1 jap spec, anyway I did this about 13yr ago and have been running a Haltech E6X for that time and done about 80,000km. I installed the Haltech myself and tuned it myself first with the old DOS program and then the Windows version over the years and the car has done in the past a 13.6@160km/hr back in 2001 and 2006. I am thinking about upgrading the Haltech so I can run a wideband sensor and try to get some fuel economy,( at the moment it is about 12.5L/100km) and better driveability, also as there are very few laptops around with serial ports(I do use a USB to Serial adaptor at the moment) and the E6X Windows Haltech software only works on win7 or below. Now the reason for the big introduction is that everybody that has asked a Haltech question in the past just gets answered "get it tuned by a professional" which is fine, but I am just asking if anybody has played around with one themselves and how is the driveability, as I am not racing the car anymore since I just got it painted and just want it as a daily driver now. Oh and before I forget, putting a factory loom and ECU is out of the question in the MG as I have no room for an airflow meter and my spare ECU from the Eterna is a dual board so apparently ECM link is out of the question if I want to convert to the later airflow meter. Sorry if this sounds a bit "up myself" but I have been thinking about getting this Haltech upgrade for a while, and as I said I have been watching the forums but no answers have been given to people querying Haltechs. I am the sort of person that gives everything a go. When I went to put the VR4 motor in the MG 13 years ago, I asked a few places the costs and I got told by shops that it was impossible. so I did it myself in about a month and have been driving it since for the last 13 years.

[blackvr]

I tune most of the aftermarket ecus, and when I do a Haltech, its with a sense of relief ! The newish Platinum series is good to use, although you will find it a bit different to the E6X... but you wont have any hassles. Be sure to use the closed loop fuel function, with a heated oxygen sensor. This should improve the fuel economy a fair bit. My stock heavy VR4 gets better than your 12.5 l/100 km !

[turbovr4]

Thanks for that, it is a relief for a straight answer. I have been playing around with the new software for bit to get a handle on it, and yes it is different, but similar in some things. I just have to get my head around working with the correction tables as I was only using about a 10 percent correction on the E6X. And as for the fuel economy, yes it is bad hence the upgrade because it should be better in a car that is 400Kilos lighter and you have proven it is possible. When I had the closed loop on the E6X working it was difficult because you had to work with the Millivolts "Stoich" or however you say it readings from the old days. at least the new haltech looks like it reads in AFR readings.

[blackvr]

Its not really different to the E6X... you still nominate a "stoichemetric" point for the closed loop to chase. The default values in haltech are pretty damned close. Let it stay in closed loop to around 0 manifold vacuum to 1 or 2 psi ... just like the factory ECU. Then, on the data logging page , watch the corrections and target around plus or minus 3-5% ( just like factory short term fuel trims). Incidentally, the E6X data page is a lot more user friendly than Haltechs current DIY style data setups !!

[jack be nimble]

When chasing max economy, it is somewhat leaner than stoich too.
I dont know what effect this might have on your cat converter. And im not sure how lean you want to go. But in pre injection days we would run as lean as the lean miss limit.
That little light car should get great economy. Its a awesome little conversion

[turbovr4]

Thanks again for the info guys, I had a bit of a play with the info pages of the PS1000 software and I can pretty well duplicate the E6x page with adding and subtracting the gauges and channels by the look of it. As far as Cat converter I don't have one(Didn't need one when I got the car approved all those years ago) but I do need one eventually, so I have it lean now like you said "Jack" I leaned off til it felt a bit faltering then slightly richen(old school tune)but I have left the boost slightly richer so I don't blow a head gasket or melt a piston( two dyno tuners did that for me in the mid 90's when I had a 1980 LC Lancer hatchback with DASH motor. for those that haven't heard of that motor is was a 12valve single cam 148kw, and sucked the fuel.

[Evo-00x]

I'm running a Haltech E8 and it does everything I need it to do, except that if I want to utilise a flex fuel sensor I apparently need to change to a PS1000.
I suppose as a road car it will be something I will need to do when making the decision to switch over to ethanol.
The PS1000 should just swap in place of my E8 Im told so that's OK.... which will leave me with an E8 ECU I will need to get rid off later lol.

[EVL20T]

Spoke to Haltech yesterday at MotorEx

The E8/11 plugs will plug into the P1000/2000, you can also import the E8/11 maps onto the P1000/2000 ecus

[leadfoot]

well rob i maybe interested in you old haltech if when your selling I'm building that 1.8 i keep dreaming about

[Geo&Kez]

I run a Haltech PS1000 on a 1G VR4 2.3 and I think they are great little ECU's. I have only looked at the software of the 'E' style Haltecs, but like what turns off most tuners, I couldn't get my head around the 2D style mapping system. The 3D tables in the PS series bring the Haltecs more into line with the more common choices. If you can tune an 'E' type, I would think a PS type would be a piece of cake.

Even the stock map for E3/VR4 you get with the software is gold, it started and ran my 2.3 with 1000cc injectors good enough to run the motor in and get to the tuners. I run both a narrow band for closed loop, and a wideband for logging, CAS, IAT, AAT, MAP, Coolant temp and Boost control so it's fairly simple by today's standard and the PS1000 has heaps more to offer. After a forgettable race meeting on the weekend, I'm even thinking about getting fancy with gear select boost control and start duty boost control tables to refine the engine characteristics some more, all easily doable with the ECU.

Long story short, get one mate, they are good. Not the 'best' but they are good vale for money.

[Evo-00x]

George, if a tuner doesn't know how to tune 2D maps or work with tables then he mustn't have much experience with ECU's, as that's how ECU's have been getting tuned for years
Some of them have gotten lazy with some of this new technology lol

[turbovr4]

Actually, I hate to say that the 3D maps are difficult for me(because I am old school) on the haltech E6X series, it has 3D tuning but I found it easier to do "all ranges" on 2D so you just adjust the curve for the MAP but keep all RPM ranges the same for a mass change then turn off all ranges and adjust the RPM ranges individually later. Anyway I have decided to get the PS1000 and have ordered it and a wideband controller and sensor. I have a spare VR4 loom which I might get all the plugs off so I don't have to cut the E6X loom up in case of back up. I will eventually get the bigger injectors as suggested later but as it is a daily driver now the boost only needs to be low because with a 1000kilo rear wheel drive car and 185mm tyres it has a bit of a wheel spin problem, mid gear second at 10psi on the dry road is interesting with the little 14b turbo and with wire wheels that are spline drive , I don't want to rip the splines (they are worn now after 50yr and 700,000km. Thanks again for the input.

[Geo&Kez]

Some of them have gotten lazy with some of this new technology lol

Agreed mate!!! Me included!

GL turbovr4, I reckon you will be happy with it.

[leadfoot]

They make repro and reco wheels for the MGB in britland

[turbovr4]

Well Haltech were fast, Ordered online Midday Monday, Arrived at my house in Qld Midday Tuesday 24hr later. So far playing around it is fairly basic, I powered up the haltech and got my win8 tablet to connect no probs. I have loaded the Galant base map and setup a data page and even calibrated the wideband sensor on free air with the flashing LED and trim pot all within an hour(Don't touch the heated sensor as it is hot I forgot). It is a lot faster than the E6x in online mode and no problems running windows 8 so far. Haltech also sends you a resource disc with tech vids and all product manuals and base maps etc, even previous model base maps, Oh and before I forget they sent me a "Hoodie". Sorry but I am not a fashion person but I think a 44year old guy in a bright red hoodie with Haltech all over it and driving a Dark blue MGB I think will be a strange look. Any way probably install the PS1000 in a weeks time and hopefully it works, I just have to remember my wiring connections in the MG since I made a new main loom for it 10yr ago and have forgotten a bit.

[jack be nimble]

You are now elevated to fashionista

[turbovr4]

Hey Guys, just letting you know that I removed the E6X from the MG on Friday night and ran the new loom in place for the PS1000 as well for about 4hr. Saturday after lunch and after chores around the house I thought I would start wiring the PS1000 and swapped the sensor plugs all over from E6X onto the ps1000 loom then soldered everything up and tried starting it at about 5:00pm. To my "shock" it actually started and ran smoothish then after about 2 minutes of running it was sweet as and wide band was working great, even idling at 950RPM which is what I set the idle to before. Stopped and restarted and all good, and still smooth, stab the throttle with no flat spot and good response. All I have to do now is to conduit the loom and tidy it up a bit , then all finished. Estimated time it took all up would be about 8 to 10 hr. This is a great computer for anybody to install, My only complaint is that it has no mounts on the computer so I have to make a cradle up to hold it in the MG, The E6x at least as mounting feet so you could screw it under the dash.

[Geo&Kez]

Good work mate, nice to hear its gone smoothly.

Now time to cruise around the block in your new hoodie!

[turbovr4]

Well finished it off today and went for a drive, Way smoother than the E6X and drives as good as the Eterna with a factory computer, Deceleration cut is supposed to be working and I have calibrated my TPS so it reads 0 throttle but the car has a nice old school "burble" on back off reminds me of the original Carby motor all those years ago. Anyway I will check that out when my 10yr old son gets home and get him to check the data pages when I drive( I have been training him up haha). So Basically I can thoroughly recommend the Haltech PS 1000 for a street use car with the Wideband O2 sensor. I just have to set up road sensor but when I hooked it into the sensor wire of the pulse generator (yes I converted the MG to digital speedo) it just cuts the speedo out and reads nothing on the haltech or the speedo.

[leadfoot]

how much was this if you don't mind me asking. thing are looking up for me atm so that mivec turbo 1.8 i keep wanting to build may happen sooner rather than later and since your a qlder aswell and my local tuner seems to like haltecs i may just be looking at one of these in the future.