I have a 96 CC Lancer GSR.
One night I was driving and I felt a cruntch in the clutch peddel and kept on driving and later the car was and it was stuck in gear when I was able to get it into gear and I found it hard to put into gear.
The car will go into gear when the car is switched off.
When I got home I checked the fluid and it was all gone.
I have changed the Master Cylender twice now and bled it several times and this supplyed a temporary fix.
I noticed little air bubbles when I bleed it and I bleed it untill there is no more air bubbles and then it drives ok for about 5 mins before it going to sh*t and not engaging gears again.
I then moved on to the slave cylender and replaced that and I was able to get the car working for about a day or 2 and then the problem came back.
The brand new slave I had installed a week ago was leaking oil from the black rubber tip where the rod is.
The more I pumped the more it would jett out untill the peddle was flat on the ground and I had no more fluid.
Upon inspection the rod from the Slave was stuck in the fork but not bent it too some force and plyers to get it unstuck from the fork.
The slave its self had damaged rubber on one side.
One last note every time the clutch plays up as I engage it, it will crunch.
thanks in advance I am suspecting a bent fork possibly putting the slave push rodon an angle thus messing up the rubber washers and stuff causing air to get into the slave?
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#1
Posted 25 July 2013 - 08:38 AM
#2
Posted 25 July 2013 - 01:31 PM
you can buy or make longer rods....try that as it sounds like an overly worn fork where the rod contacts. this will allow the piston in the slave to travel almost right out. that allows a leak as the piston cocks sideways
Edited by BMGTZ, 25 July 2013 - 01:35 PM.
- Rps13 likes this
BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
#6
Posted 26 July 2013 - 12:35 PM
#7
Posted 26 July 2013 - 12:37 PM
Thanks for the feed back BMGTZ I think i might replace it and do it right the first time. What do you think?
#8
Posted 26 July 2013 - 01:30 PM
A longer rod will work for a while.....BUT
to correct the problem requires the gear box removed and a new pivot ball/ clutch fork be installed.
If the flywheel has been machined you will also need to space out the pivot ball. The optimum point of contact when viewed from the front is for the thrust bearing to engage the fingers of the pressure plate slightly off towards the slave cylinder side of the half way point through the length of travel of the aperture of the clutch fork
get this right and your wont have issues of the fluid disappearing unless you have other leaks
to correct the problem requires the gear box removed and a new pivot ball/ clutch fork be installed.
If the flywheel has been machined you will also need to space out the pivot ball. The optimum point of contact when viewed from the front is for the thrust bearing to engage the fingers of the pressure plate slightly off towards the slave cylinder side of the half way point through the length of travel of the aperture of the clutch fork
get this right and your wont have issues of the fluid disappearing unless you have other leaks
Edited by BMGTZ, 26 July 2013 - 01:31 PM.
BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
#9
Posted 30 July 2013 - 10:21 AM
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Clutch, GSR
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