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VR-4 Central Locking

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11 replies to this topic

#1
A112H

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Anyone fitted remote central locking to their VR-4?
Someone tried breaking into mine and have damaged to drivers door lock so the key no longer works. It is becoming very annoying climbing over the passenger seat to flick the switch on the door.
I have bought a central locking kit with the idea of simply hooking it into my factory central locking, efectivly giving me a button for my stock system but I am having trouble making it work.

So, has anyone done this before?
Can anyone link me a wiring diagram for the factory central locking?

Thanks in advance,
Jason

#2
evo-gsr

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Why dont you just go to the wreckers and buy a lock mechanism?
Then take that with your key to a locksmith and have the lock calibrated to your key.
Easy as..cost about $40 all up
[qoute name="BMGTZ" post="331212" timestamp="1467451744"]I don't know anything ...
Trust in the master of taxis.... He will set you straight[/quote]

#3
A112H

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Yeah, might do that tomorrow, lol

#4
turbovr4

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I fitted an alarm with central locking to my Eterna a couple of years ago, My car has the Etacs body computer but there is a main central locking relay under the drivers side dash, from memory it switches on the negative side of the relay , so in other words you hook up new central locking unit negative wires to the relay Brown/white wire for lock, and Brown/blue for unlock. My alarm basically had two power wires and two negative wires for the alarms inbuilt central locking relays, so I hooked power to the alarm central locking relays then the negative side of them switch my eternas own central locking relay as described above.

#5
jack be nimble

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Why dont you just go to the wreckers and buy a lock mechanism?
Then take that with your key to a locksmith and have the lock calibrated to your key.
Easy as..cost about $40 all up


Pretty easy to calibrate a door lock.
Pop the circlip off the back (pop the chrome trim off the front I think) and swap the little poppets around. File finish if a little notchy, lube and reassemble.
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#6
A112H

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Grabbed one and sent it in to be keyed alike, bloody $55 :( but sorted now :D

#7
evo-gsr

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Thats fucking extortion.

I paid half that to get mine done not long ago.

Shitheads.
[qoute name="BMGTZ" post="331212" timestamp="1467451744"]I don't know anything ...
Trust in the master of taxis.... He will set you straight[/quote]

#8
A112H

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Salisbury Locksmiths. I thought it was a jip. And they have had it for a day and a half, fuckers.
It did accidentally fall into my pocket at the wreckers, so that was a small win :P

#9
evo-gsr

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A day and a half? Mine was a while u wait job...Good
score with the accidental pocketing too!
Although karma may be the reason for the extortionate pricetag at the locksmith...
[qoute name="BMGTZ" post="331212" timestamp="1467451744"]I don't know anything ...
Trust in the master of taxis.... He will set you straight[/quote]

#10
A112H

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Yeah, fair call on the Karma, lol

#11
Benzo4gT

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Seriously, I don't even have the key mechanism connected to my remote central, I even a thin metal cover over the drive motors to stop them being jagged by a wire. There are 3 ways standard locking mechanism can be overridden, ! busting the key hole by ground down screwdriver and a stiff turn. 2 Pulling up the lock plunger through the window with a wire. 3 going straight down into the door cavity to snag the lock mechanism. There are many out there that will say that having the lock rely solely on motors it a risky thing, I say not. I've never ever had one fail in 10 years of doing this. Most if not all keyless systems have rolling code. TIPS: 1 Have one wire, blue or green or what ever wire can be grounded to unlock the doors in a place in the wiring loom that only you (if possible) know of (in case of battery going flat in transmitter. Most systems have an override code that can be pushed via the valet override making it possible to start the car if an immobilizer is used). 2 Have a manual pull cable to pop the bonnet, this makes it easier to get to the cars battery if it goes flat making the remote unusable (obviously) this saves jumping the car with the cable connected from the starter motor main (pain in the arse). 3 Have fuse located in the engine bay so if it does happen to short out it can be accessed. 4 Have more than a few anti theft devices in place, Touch tech, switch to ground the coil, fuel pump, even a padlock on the handbrake mechanism ( I will show this on another post, and yes, I am crazy as F&%k) Sound a bit over the top? I've had cars with the complete lock mechanism removed in a parking lot, unable to be stolen! RVRs are especially easy, that I'll get to in another post. Make it hard for the thieves to steal! Some systems will let you know via transponder or txt if the car has security has been breached, make sure this is set properly. If all this fails, then pour some diesel on the road and slide it up on a flatbed and work it out later (very rare for a theif to do this, very noisy). If you need any more info, let me know, but I can bet you are all backing away slowly LMAO I've raved on far too much, I'm going back to my padded cell.

Bit of a tool, and owner of "The Turdis" - Hervey Bay

 

 

 

 


#12
Benzo4gT

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WOW, I that post doesn't come across as half nuts! sorry bout that, my handlers say I really should spend more time in my padded cell :blink:

Bit of a tool, and owner of "The Turdis" - Hervey Bay

 

 

 

 



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