Hey guys, I bought an alarm system for the RVR and although all is fairly easy to install I am having no luck in locating the relay for the central locking so as to wire up that section into it. One of the main reasons I bought the alarm is for the central locking as I don't have the original key fob for the factory one, so it is a little frustrating.....I am chasing the negative wire from the relay mainly as I believe the RVR's are a negative trigger as far as that goes? Cheers for any help, thanks guys.
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RVR (97 HSG R) Central Locking Wiring
Started by White Knight, Jul 31 2013 11:24 PM
#1
Posted 31 July 2013 - 11:24 PM
#2
Posted 01 August 2013 - 06:46 AM
I can't see a relay in the digrams I have, although there may be one. There is a central control unit that's located under the dash. There is a diagnosis connector on the right side of underneath the wheel and the CCU is above it and to the left. You should be able to splice into that. You'd have to use a tester light and be sure which one is active when locks trigger.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
#3
Posted 01 August 2013 - 08:08 AM
Mate, that sounds like a plan to me. Always fun messing around with wiring hey!!! I spliced into a positive on by chance (of the drivers door) and blew a shit load of fuses, lol!!!!!!! Thanks matey.
#4
Posted 01 August 2013 - 11:16 AM
damn, yeah it's always fun.
Just use your tester light to be sure what's what before you splice into anything. Be wary there are a few things going into it other than the locks. The power window relay, rear fog lamp relay (?) and the horn relay. The lock test should work with your tester light on the pins of the separated plug, test both sides cause you can't be sure of the direction of current. If all else fails and no result, check colours of the wires coming from the unit against the colours going to your door locks and plug the connection in and test again with light to be sure. This just means it has an earth in the CCU that needs to be bridged to send power.
Good luck I'm sure you'll succeed.
Just use your tester light to be sure what's what before you splice into anything. Be wary there are a few things going into it other than the locks. The power window relay, rear fog lamp relay (?) and the horn relay. The lock test should work with your tester light on the pins of the separated plug, test both sides cause you can't be sure of the direction of current. If all else fails and no result, check colours of the wires coming from the unit against the colours going to your door locks and plug the connection in and test again with light to be sure. This just means it has an earth in the CCU that needs to be bridged to send power.
Good luck I'm sure you'll succeed.
#5
Posted 03 August 2013 - 10:37 AM
I did mine but quite a while ago. I replaced the control module with one I got from Jaycar as mine was dead and trigger it with my immobiliser.
The control is from a very hazy memory near the steering column and is triggered by a momentry current. I dont believe the previous post is 100% correct as I had none of those units involved when I changed mine and it all still works. I am fairly sure the unit is triggered by a momentry negative current but that is easilly checked by what happens when you check the lock wire while using the key in the door lock. As long as your alarm has the correct output it should all be good.
JohnS
The control is from a very hazy memory near the steering column and is triggered by a momentry current. I dont believe the previous post is 100% correct as I had none of those units involved when I changed mine and it all still works. I am fairly sure the unit is triggered by a momentry negative current but that is easilly checked by what happens when you check the lock wire while using the key in the door lock. As long as your alarm has the correct output it should all be good.
JohnS
#6
Posted 03 August 2013 - 11:21 AM
I haven't had the chance for a look as yet, busy life and all.... Plenty to think about here, although John I believe you are correct in regards to a momentary negative pulse (a negative trigger per se). Once I get the opportunity I will post up for future reference anyway... Cheers guys.
#7
Posted 05 August 2013 - 01:45 AM
You might be interested to take note that what I've said is connected, the manual has got it listed as that in it's wiring diagrams. Makes no sense to me that any of it should be in a CCU for locks! but that's what it lists.
#8
Posted 05 August 2013 - 02:16 AM
Yeh, it would have made sense if they were seperated hey.... I'll just take the door skin off and find the correct wires from there as well to be doubly sure. Big thanks for the help on this one guys.
#9
Posted 05 August 2013 - 04:56 AM
Hey guys, just quickly as well, what do you use for the stereo wiring? In japan they have hooked up some speakers which have been soldered into the harness, but what do I use as an adapter from the harness to the new headunit? (JVC) Are there plug and play adapters available? I found some like this http://www.ryda.com....s-p/app0111.htm but i dont know if it would fit. Any ideas?
Edited by Hyper_Mike, 05 August 2013 - 05:08 AM.
#10
Posted 05 August 2013 - 11:58 AM
Mate, for the $ that plug costs, I'd try it cause these RVR's are very similar and I can't imagine Mitsubishi would have changed too much for them stereo wise, they have all the same climate control and most of the dash gear. If that doesn't work for ya mate, it's not too hard to figure out which wires which and wire it up yourself.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Edited by Django, 05 August 2013 - 12:03 PM.
- Hyper_Mike likes this
#11
Posted 06 August 2013 - 06:10 AM
Also there is one here that has the same plug for the loom and doesn't include the two plugs on the other end, unless your stereo has two plugs?
http://www.ebay.com....e-/260669976038
http://www.ebay.com....e-/260669976038
- Hyper_Mike likes this
#12
Posted 07 August 2013 - 04:15 AM
#13
Posted 16 August 2013 - 01:58 PM
Just a quick update as well, i bought a MITSUBISHI to ISO harness, then a ISO to JVC (many other brands available too) harness and it all works perfectly, no soldering all plug and play.
#14
Posted 17 August 2013 - 03:13 AM
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