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cracked block
#21
Posted 25 September 2013 - 08:54 AM
How you can see from outside the engine how much power are inside lol.
I show you some pics in a few hours.
#22
Posted 25 September 2013 - 09:33 AM
He wants to see pictures of the damage caused I would think.
Trust in the master of taxis.... He will set you straight[/quote]
#23
Posted 25 September 2013 - 11:54 AM
and yes the car was driven on street with numberplates,street driven with 2,5bar boost, around 700-750hp fullboost use not all day ;-)
here are some pics from the car
and the cracked block
#24
Posted 25 September 2013 - 11:57 AM
all pistons rods are not damage.
the bearings are worn and the crank was slightly bent
#25
Posted 25 September 2013 - 12:22 PM
Do you know anyone good at CAD (for doing engineering drawings)? You might have to design your own full bottom end griddle and then get it laser cut / pressed. I don't ever recall seeing anything "off the shelf" that would help you hold your engine together at those areas.
#26
Posted 25 September 2013 - 08:15 PM
Both my 6 bolt 4g63 and 6 bolt G4CS block.
- 1/2 grout filled.
- stress relieved ( metal laxed )
- kiggly girdle
But not pushing anywhere near 1000hp. yet...
I can't see how you could be damaging the block externally without damaging the bores/ pistons / rods.
What engine mounts are you running?
Where is it cracking?
Since it has happened twice, are the locations consistent?
AMG | http://www.4gtuner.c...mmc-galant-amg/
GVR4 | http://www.4gtuner.c...shi-galant-vr4/
Springy Motors | Autronic | Motec
#27
Posted 26 September 2013 - 02:00 AM
cracket between cylinder and mains
both engines have the same crack area
last year with 920hp (on dyno) i have no issures with the engine,streetdriven and 1/4 mile 10000km without big defects.
#28
Posted 26 September 2013 - 02:26 AM
#29
Posted 26 September 2013 - 06:13 AM
To me he should not be asking a Forum about this, to get to this stage he should be able to work it out from trial an error you dont see me asking questions like this, I dont really belive it until i see photos. As anybody building a 1000hp 4G63 motor will have done the research as well as the drive line. I am building a 1000hp Street Evo IX and it is very intense build. you dont just stumble on a 1000hp setup.
No harm in asking, perhaps not everybody has access to the time, funds and resources you may have available to you to learn by "trial and error", so they need to explore alternative options for obtaining the information they need.
In regards to the block cracking - given the block is a cast piece of steel and not really too much else goes into producing it, all I can think is that there may have been internal casting faults when the block was manufactured. It does happen in production volume situations when a particular batch of parts can be faulty purely through a slight change in material and/or process.
Edited by ENGINR, 26 September 2013 - 06:19 AM.
#30
Posted 27 September 2013 - 10:06 AM
Just saying and i know you cant, but if the head bolts extended through the block and were secured below the crank, then it would be far stronger.
I may have had a motorbike engine with that. Ie, some of the head studs were the main studs also.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#31
Posted 27 September 2013 - 02:51 PM
Here, look at the attached pic.
Do you think this might be caused by the left hand CV shaft that bolts onto the back of the block twisting from torque?
Matthias... how is your left hand CV shaft bolted to the back of your block?
Do you have the big black airconditioner compressor bracket on the back of the block first, then bolt the CV shaft on? or are you using a 8mm spacer without the airconditioner bracket?
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.
372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET
#32
Posted 27 September 2013 - 04:01 PM
#33
Posted 28 September 2013 - 02:12 PM
Well if you rule out that bracket then its simply got to be weakness in the block from high boost or the tune wasn't right.
I always thought that it was pretty much rule of thumb that if you're going to run 40psi+ boost then you are mad not to grout your block.
What are you running 3.6 bar? = 2.6 x 14.7psi = 38.22 psi.
Lets assume that's the reason why so on your next build use grout to be safe anyway, especially if youre going to be chasing more boost than what you are currently running.
330kw atw @ 28psi 98 pump fuel.
372kw atw @ 28psi E85 Flexfuel.
EVOLVED AWD COUPE
WWW.EVOCOUPE.NET
#34
Posted 29 September 2013 - 11:20 PM
#35
Posted 30 September 2013 - 11:35 AM
restrict my tune.for the next weeks of the saison.
was on last weekend on a dyno
this winter i will build a full new engine half filled with griddle...
#36
Posted 30 September 2013 - 09:26 PM
Your starting to make me think your a bit of a madman Mattias.............. I will enjoy watching what you get up to.
#37
Posted 01 October 2013 - 10:33 AM
AMG | http://www.4gtuner.c...mmc-galant-amg/
GVR4 | http://www.4gtuner.c...shi-galant-vr4/
Springy Motors | Autronic | Motec
#38
Posted 15 October 2013 - 09:45 PM
i have found my balls and have tune before two weeks the ecu a lidle bit more agressive with that engine.
without problems and defects at the moment (every day driven)
yesterday i go on a dynojet. here are the result
#39
Posted 15 October 2013 - 09:54 PM
#40
Posted 16 October 2013 - 02:00 AM
yes it's me KHUBNER
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