battery light on dash
- Thread starter evopwr
- Start date
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khubner1
Moderator
Yep it relate to the alternator either give poor intermittent or no charge
4piknup
master of none
If the light gets brighter with more lights on, and is brighter at idle, its probably brushes. They are reblaceable pretty easily, id just replace them.
If you can solder, they will set you back $10-$12.
If not you will need the holder as well.
I think you have to pull the back off alt to get them. Some have a brush holder that you just replace...
If you can solder, they will set you back $10-$12.
If not you will need the holder as well.
I think you have to pull the back off alt to get them. Some have a brush holder that you just replace...
Benzo4gT
Operator
↑↑↑ What he said. If you have some dexterity you can do this without taking the alt out.
Did this on a charade once, it was pretty difficult to do on the car but a lot better than replacing the entire thing. Don't know about the 4g63s but on the one I did they had a small holder that screwed in to the inside of the alternator.
Benzo4gT
Operator
I have mine out so I thought I'd snap some pics that might help.
Pic 1 is the holder you need to take off.
Pic 2 is what you need to unclip to remove it from the housing so new brushes can be installed
Pic 3 These are where the brushes are soldered, a good soldering iron (60-80 watts) should melt the solder easily, just use some pliers and not your fingers when pulling them away
When you solder
in the new ones, make sure the little loops are clear of solder, you can open them up a bit to get the new brush wire in then just press them shut and put a bit of solder on them, not too much as you want
to avoid the solder wicking along the wire making it solid.
Pic 4 This is what healthy-ish brushes look like, they are spring loaded to keep constant pressure with the commutator.
The last pic is of the commutator (or slip rings as some call them)
Hope this helps
Pic 1 is the holder you need to take off.
Pic 2 is what you need to unclip to remove it from the housing so new brushes can be installed
Pic 3 These are where the brushes are soldered, a good soldering iron (60-80 watts) should melt the solder easily, just use some pliers and not your fingers when pulling them away
When you solderin the new ones, make sure the little loops are clear of solder, you can open them up a bit to get the new brush wire in then just press them shut and put a bit of solder on them, not too much as you want
to avoid the solder wicking along the wire making it solid.
Pic 4 This is what healthy-ish brushes look like, they are spring loaded to keep constant pressure with the commutator.
The last pic is of the commutator (or slip rings as some call them)
Hope this helps
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4piknup
master of none
Good work benzo
haha Ricki!
Thanks guys, that's an awesome step-by-step guide. I think I may as well swap over for a new unit.
I remember reading on EVO-OOX build that a VR4 unit fits and also is of higher performance that the evo unit? Can anyone confirm? I'll be getting an aftermarket one, if anyone has Bursons/Repco parts numbers and indicative pricing please throw them up here!
Alex
Thanks guys, that's an awesome step-by-step guide. I think I may as well swap over for a new unit.
I remember reading on EVO-OOX build that a VR4 unit fits and also is of higher performance that the evo unit? Can anyone confirm? I'll be getting an aftermarket one, if anyone has Bursons/Repco parts numbers and indicative pricing please throw them up here!
Alex
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure my Evo alternator is 90 amp and the GSR are the 70 amp jobs ?
khubner1
Moderator
yeah i've got a 90 amper on my gsr. and my spar is a 70
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