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Car surges after boost ? Pls help
#21
Posted 04 February 2014 - 02:45 AM
yes it's me KHUBNER
#22
Posted 04 February 2014 - 02:47 AM
#23
Posted 04 February 2014 - 03:23 AM
#24
Posted 04 February 2014 - 09:07 AM
Im on phone too, will try to find it
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#25
Posted 04 February 2014 - 09:12 AM
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#26
Posted 04 February 2014 - 09:41 AM
Boost gauge is just teed into the fpr line and I'd probably put your microtechnology map sensor line in the same source. Bov has its own nipple after the throttle body
yes it's me KHUBNER
#27
Posted 05 February 2014 - 01:17 AM
both are ok.....
when it is in the manifold you get a true boost at the valve reading. if the boost is too high the actuator opens so all good. when you get off the throttle there is no boost in the manifold and the actuator shuts...simple
my preference right or wrong is detect boost from the manifold
Also, the turbo tends to run a few more psi this way as the wastegate looks past the pressure drop to satisfy the source requirement.
Bov -> vacuum source after throttle
Agreed, the vac off throttle will help the bov overcome spring pressure.
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|
#28
Posted 07 February 2014 - 06:54 AM
#29
Posted 07 February 2014 - 07:59 AM
its fine where it is as long as it is doing the job
BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
#30
Posted 07 February 2014 - 08:00 AM
#31
Posted 10 February 2014 - 02:11 AM
Did you try the plumb back as opposed to atmo to see if it still occurs?
#32
Posted 10 February 2014 - 02:24 AM
I've been doing some searching and it says the wastegate actuator should be plumbed before the throttle plate ? Is this true ?
I had a look at where my is plumbed and it's connected to a T piece .. One leading to the BoV and the other after the throttle plate .. Is this right ?
Not trying to sound stupid, but if the shoe fits..... When you jump off the throttle, the manifold pressure on the engine side of the throttle plate will/should instantly drop/return to vacuum. If your bov line is connected here, this pressure drop reduces the pressure on the spring side of the bov and PFFFT, the sound we all love.
If it's on the other side of the throttle plate, you jump off the throttle and the pressure still exists for a short time doesn't it? This would then be delaying the opening of the bov for that same short time, which in turn I imagine could cause some compressor surge as the compressor pushes against a closed head?
Or have I missed the point?
Edited by Geo&Kez, 10 February 2014 - 02:24 AM.
#33
Posted 10 February 2014 - 02:30 AM
They are so smart.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#34
Posted 10 February 2014 - 02:48 AM
this is why plumb back are better. if you using a vent to atmo you have to ensure it is closed at idle by increaseing the srping pressure until the vac source cannot overcome it
yes it's me KHUBNER
#35
Posted 10 February 2014 - 03:56 AM
As K has eluded to, that's what I thought the spring adjustment was for? Maybe given I make fuckall vacuum at idle with the cams and stuff, it has not been an issue for me.
#36
Posted 10 February 2014 - 04:42 AM
Decel as well?this is why plumb back are better. if you using a vent to atmo you have to ensure it is closed at idle by increaseing the srping pressure until the vac source cannot overcome it
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#37
Posted 10 February 2014 - 05:42 AM
My springs got easily enough tension to keep it shut at those vacuums, but now I'm all confused and interested, I'm going to stick a vac pump on it tonight and see if mines been cracking open on decel.
Edited by Geo&Kez, 10 February 2014 - 05:43 AM.
#38
Posted 10 February 2014 - 05:53 AM
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#39
Posted 10 February 2014 - 06:46 AM
#40
Posted 10 February 2014 - 08:37 AM
no it will not cranked because after the throttle body will be at vacuum while before will be at 1 atmo.
the way you want it is closed at idle but only just enough so that the combination of vacuum and boost pressure in the inter cooler lines can overcome the spring and vent. with a plumb back you can let it be open at idle etc as it can help throttle response by allowing a shortcut for the air and thus shorter intake path
yes it's me KHUBNER
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