30 replies to this topic

[mr madmike]

hi guys newbe here, iv just brought a 97 hgs-r with blowen head, seized block (pistons) and also got a n/a open gear with it. the n/a starts and runs fine.

 

i was thinking of using the n/a engine and just bolting the turbo up to it, running low boost to compensate for the higher cr. wile i get the cash to build up the hsg block

 

?? what involved in doing this??

Edited by mr madmike, 11 April 2014 - 11:30 AM.

[mr madmike]

my research: 

 

pistons: hsg  8.5:1 cr   

             open gear (nonturbo) 10.5:1 cr  should be fine to boost @ 8 psi

 

oil squirter's: hsg has them and open gear dose not, but sould be fine with out them for light driving

 

cams: are different but shouldn't extremely affect drive-ability

 

still looking at CAS set-up and turbo oil feeds if any one could enlighten me more

[Benzo4gT]

The CAS (rear of head type) and the cam and crank (front) can be swapped about with a bit of a wiring change as far as I know if you want to change it about. It's just as easy to throw the HSG ones on while the engines are both out

 

of the car.

 

Oil feed, you'll have to tap into the head. There is a flat spot on the N/A head in the same spot where the banjo bolt goes through on a turbo head. You might have some issues with swarf getting into the oil system though.

 

 The exhaust cams should be the same.

 

No oil squirters will be fine, it's not like you have a choice anyway LOL.  The boost is low and it sounds like you have a bit of mechanical sympathy so it'll be fine. 

 

You'll probably love the response and quick spool the higher compression will give you.

 

Oh, and remember to put the knock sensor on if it doesn't have one on the N/A block. Probably good to swap over the intake manifold and TB from the HSG as it flows more than the N/A, the rest is a no brainer

 

Let us know how it drives once you get it going

Edited by Benzo4gT, 11 April 2014 - 09:37 PM.

[mr madmike]

cheers man, will be doing the transplant next week, will post results. 

[mr madmike]

Ok i finally got around to put it all togther 

and she won't start   all the timing is good and there is compression (120psi) there is spark and the plugs are ok, ajusted the new fuel reg to 43 by turning over and there is fuel to the rail. i think its not injecting fuel the plugs are dry as a bone and don't smell fuel at all. i haven't tested volts at the injector yet need meter will buy one tomorrow. every thing is pluged up:

crack and cam sensors  

afm

tps

coils

igniter

knock

o2

the cold start thing on the tb

 

any one with idears please would but appreciated  

[Benzo4gT]

Definitely check the volts at the injectors, but also do a wet compression test because 120psi seems a little on the low side.

[jack be nimble]

High enough to run.
Spin cas 180º
Squirt a bit of petrol into tb, see if it will kick. Watch you dont burn eyebrows.

Open throttle, couple of squirts, close throttle. Crank.

[mr madmike]

120psi was the first pump of the piston after a few turns it read 180-200

[jack be nimble]

Definitely check the volts at the injectors, but also do a wet compression test because 120psi seems a little on the low side.

I reckon a led would work good as a test light on a injector.
Any thoughts any one?

[mr madmike]

will have a meter tomorrow and test, I'm pretty sure i got the cas right by the imprinting of the numbers from the sencor wheel on the cam. but to be even surer anyone no or as a pic of where its meant to be

[jack be nimble]

The sensor is under the cam gear at front of engine? You cant get that wrong. Its dowelled in its spot

[mr madmike]

i meant the cam angle sensor on the head gearbox end

[Benzo4gT]

120psi was the first pump of the piston after a few turns it read 180-200

 

That's healthy figure.

[mr madmike]

tested the volts on the injectors: I have got 11.5 volts on the + wire  but when i turn in over and test the - wire there's no volts   

when i turn it on the engine check light comes on for about 5 sec then turns off and when i turn it over it stays off . That seems good to me so no error code and no need of OBDII cable to check code

 

any one got any ideas on what it could be I'm at a loss 

when it stops raining ill go out there and test the volts for the injectors at the ECU but its unlikely all 4 injector wires are faulty and every other wire is good (no engine check light)

 

I need a wiring diagram and pin-out 

any one got any ideas on what it could be I'm at a loss 

[jack be nimble]

I think you measure across the 2 wires. Should maybe see 5v or so when cranking

[vr401]

Use evo1-3 ecu wiring diagram.

[vr401]

Did you check if fuel pump works with ignition on?
If you can't hear it try to pull of the fuel line from injector fuel rail to see if it pumps fuel through.
Let me know if the pump doesn't work. I may have a solution for you.

[jack be nimble]

Have to crank pump or spin cas to get pump to go

[mr madmike]

i tested it across both wires and nothing. its got 43psi at the reg and i puled hose and fuel pumping out good as its deffintly not getting power to the injectors   

[vr401]

i tested it across both wires and nothing. its got 43psi at the reg and i puled hose and fuel pumping out good as its deffintly not getting power to the injectors

Did you check all fuses and relays?