Hi Wae,
The Verada is 160mm between the bolt holes & suits Brembos. The ABS needs modding.
RVR rear has a drum brake handbrake the same as an Evo. I was told the rear goes straight on.
I haven't fitted my brakes. Million other things to do & my brakes are ok with my std boost atm etc
Will have to later to pull it up. And I will be fitting an Evo 6 master cylinder.
I'm a late breaker, so I'll be adding a vacume storage tank like the old GT Falcons used.
When I'm WOT & then need to break hard, my 264/272 cams have robbed me of vacume.
Cheers !
The Verada steering arm hole for the tie rod is 5mm higher at the bottom & the tapered hole faces ^ up, so the RVR tie rod
will be turned upside down. With a lowered RVR, the rack arms will sit ok. With a std height RVR, the rack arms would be
heading down towards the wheel. You don't need to make any brackets for the calipers at all. The ABS mod from memory will
need a bit of lathe cutting towards the bearing to fit the doo-dad inside. The reader doo-dad needs relocating to line up.
I think we can just weld a nut on the side of the hub to line the reader up. A bit of a prick of a job, but no biggy..
Cheers !
Reading the Brembo thread in the RVR section I have a new idea.
For a GVR4, could one use TR front knuckles (modded to fit the ABS sensor correctly) and RVR rear trailing arms and hubs?
The TR front knuckles would allow bolt on fitment of the brembos, whilst at the same time providing a 5 stud conversion.
Fitment of the rear brembos on an RVR seems to be a bolt on affair due to having a similar drum handbrake setup as the CT9A.
So if the rear trailing arms and hubs bolt into the VR4, it would also provide bolt on fitment of the brembos whilst again providing the 5 stud conversion!
brisvr4 was telling me that fitment of the RVR rear diff into VR4 only requires minor fabrication so if needed. If one could swap a complete RVR rear end into the Galant, you wouldn't need to do the 4 bolt rear upgrade either as they run the bigger shafts.
I know this is a long shot and cross compatibility of Mitsubishi parts is a rare thing...it seems too good to be true but is anyone aware of any issues that may arise with performing this work? This is all just based web based info and I haven't been underneath a Mitsi for a while so I could be completely off.
I have both RVR, VR4 and E9 brembos so I'll probably have to do some wrenching and find my own answers but Aldo, I'd appreciate if you could impart some of your wisdom here. I know you know both of these cars like the back of your hand