19 replies to this topic

[boostboy76]

Hi,

 

I've done DIY brake pad and rotor changes on my Evo 8 in the past without issues, but I'm stuck trying to do a front pad and rotor change on my CC GSR.

 

I've managed to do the front left rotor and pads, but I'm stuck with the right hand side.

 

No matter how much I try and compress the cylinder, the gap between the pads isn't anywhere near far apart enough to even fit the rotor in to?

 

 

I'm using the RDA rotors, and some EBC RedStuff pads.

 

The pads are part number, DP3830C, and came in a set of 4,  two for each front caliper, so I know they are all the same.

 

Both RDA rotors show the same part number on the box - RDA411D

 

I can move the caliper so that the pad on the piston side is dead flush with the caliper, i.e. so no brake pad is showing at all on the left hand side of the above photo.

 

However, all that seems to do is move the right hand part of the assembly, and the right hand side pad, towards the piston, so I end up with the same small gap that the rotor won't fit into?

 

Same thing happens if I pull the right hand side - the piston side assembly and pad just move to the right, leaving the same shitty gap a bee's dick wouldn't fit in to!?

 

I was able to fit the left hand rotor and pads with a little bit of swearing, but it's taken me hours of swearing and cutting the shit out of my hands trying everything I can think of to magically create more space between the pads to get that damn rotor to fit, but it just isn't happening.

 

Am I missing something obvious?

Edited by boostboy76, 15 June 2014 - 10:53 PM.

[whiteseries4]

take the banjo bolt of the back to release all of the pressure, it does mean you'll need to bleed it afterwards thou

 

if the piston doesnt want to move back after that it may be jammed, try rotating the piston left and right as you try to compress

[Benzo4gT]

Try grabbing a medium sized C-clamp and compressing the piston. Take the pads out and put the small part of the clamp on the piston and give it some work, wait a few seconds then screw it in a bit more,

 

it should start to move for you.

[leadfoot]

also make sure you push the piston side of the caliper towards the front so that the fixed sliding side move further away from the disk

[Geo&Kez]

From experience, these clappers tend to get build up in the bottom of the pot. If your feeling keen, undo the line, pop the piston out with some air, pick the seal out carefully and give the pot a quick blat with a fine flap wheel and a soft wire brush on the drill to clean the shit out. Undo the bleed nipple and clean the shit out of there as well. Put the seal back in (or better still get some new ones, their cheap). Give your pistons a light emery to get rid of the nasty above the seal line and pop them back in. Presto, rebuild clapper in about 15 mins. If your fluid has absorbed water, for some reason, these style of clappers like to grow barnacles in the bottom of the pot.

Edited by Geo&Kez, 16 June 2014 - 03:40 AM.

[jack be nimble]

There be barnacles in me clappers. Arrgh.

[evo-gsr]

Lol..

[boostboy76]

Whereabouts do I get the seal kits from - Mitsubishi?

 

Does anyone know the MDxxxx number for these, front and rear?

 

Cheers

[Missile]

http://www.ebay.com....34de7b7d&_uhb=1

[Missile]

Or if you want genuine

 

MB857840 - Fronts caliper

MB857875 - Rear caliper

[boostboy76]

Thanks Missile  

 

The ebay listing says Evo 3 calipers - I thought the CC GSR calipers were different to the Evo 3 ones?

Edited by boostboy76, 17 June 2014 - 03:53 AM.

[Missile]

Yep scrap that then! They are for Evo 1-3 front and rear.

Rear kit will be the same.

 

I can find a gsr one on ebay.

[Missile]

For the avoidance of confusion

 

GSR Lancer:

MB699707 - Front caliper seal kit

MB857875 - Rear caliper seal kit

 

 

Evo 1-3

MB857840 - Front caliper seal kit

MB857875 - Rear caliper seal kit

Edited by Missile, 17 June 2014 - 04:20 AM.

[boostboy76]

Thanks again.

 

Just ordered them from Mitsubishi

 

$35 Per side for the fronts

 

$40 per side for the rears

 

Stock only held in Sydney at the moment

 

Weird how the rears cost $5 more per side than the fronts!?

Edited by boostboy76, 17 June 2014 - 04:42 AM.

[Geo&Kez]

^^Prob because of the worm drive / handbrake shit. That's a whole other fuckache.

[boostboy76]

@Geo&Kez - So the rear calipers are more complicated to tear down and put a seal kit through than the fronts, is that what you mean?

Edited by boostboy76, 17 June 2014 - 06:32 AM.

[Geo&Kez]

Yep, worm drive handbrake mech. If you don't want to get to involved, just remove the piston ( need to remove the arm on the back of the pot) and replace the main piston seal and the little 'o'ring seal that seals the hole the handbrake arm goes through. Don't take the worm drive gear out of the back of the piston, not unless you have a manual handy to help you put it back together. From memory the seal for the handbrake arm is on the shaft, not in the calliper housing. You can just wind the piston out to do the main seal, but it's normally the rear seal that let's go. It has been a while since I played brakes so memory is fuzzy, fronts are easy, so def do them.

Edited by Geo&Kez, 17 June 2014 - 07:54 AM.

[theserbian1]

Could anyone confirm if evo 1 rotors and pads will fit 1991 vr4..?
:-)

[jack be nimble]

The rda catalogue is excellent and will tell you about the rotors

[theserbian1]

The rda catalogue is excellent and will tell you about the rotors

Yeah, ive allready checked, and looks like they are the same..!
I just wanted to double check with you nice people..!,!
:-) :-)