19 replies to this topic

[LumpyVR4]

My master cylinder was leaking and my front rotors were badly worn, so while I was fixing that lot I though I might upgrade the brakes to EVO IV aka Outlander spec, add some braided lines, and change the pads and rotors on the back too. I'm only half done on the front at the moment because the chuck on my drill decided to die after re-drilling the first rotor. But here are a couple of pics so far.

 

Before

 

Grafted in a bit of the after pic to get the scale the same

 

Groovy

 

First side done

 

 

 

[jack be nimble]

Groovy discs are best as they have more surface area

[LumpyVR4]

Groovy discs are best as they have more surface area

Should have mentioned they only measured 22mm thick.

 

Rear pads were almost on the backing plate. Rotors were OK, but I wanted them to match the front, and I came across them on ebay as a run out for less than 1/2 price so I wasn't going to say no.

Edited by LumpyVR4, 21 June 2014 - 01:17 AM.

[croket]

Link for the rear discs please ? Ive found fronts slotted and dimpled to suit vr4

[croket]

http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649

 

found some front discs that dont need drilling

[LumpyVR4]

I actually got the rears from the guys in your link, but that was a few months ago.

 

I've done the 'Outlander' mod on the front. Outlander caliper mounts and normally Outlander rotors, giving you 294mm, i.e. EVO IV spec brakes. I went for Lancer / Magna rotors because they are the same thickness as the original rotors but still 294mm, and unfortunately 5 stud. The Outlander ones are thicker and thus heavier. I don't plan to go racing, so don't need the extra meat for strength / heat dissapation.

Edited by LumpyVR4, 21 June 2014 - 07:10 AM.

[croket]

Bugger they didnt have 4 studs back then , the ones ive found only have 3 slots though , ive got them on my watch list for when funds permit. Oh yheah and the rest of my list hmmmm $$$$$

 

Next up before brakes is this http://www.ebay.com....=item3f37529e75

[bitza]

I did the "Outlander" conversion ages ago, I used the magna AWD front discs at 296mm @ 24mm thick plus drilling to 4 stud.

 

Edited by bitza, 21 June 2014 - 07:12 AM.

[croket]

ahhh i see now so the discs are larger in diameter but still use vr4 calipers ?

[bitza]

Yep, I used EVO 3 Calipers, which are basically the same as VR4 accept for the bolting of the brake line is a banjo fit rather than a direct fit.

[LumpyVR4]

Yep Aus spec VR4 calipers work fine. Then you need a pair of these..

 

http://www.ebay.com/...e960b82&vxp=mtr

 

and some 294mm rotors.

[croket]

Is there plates to use vr4 front rotors on the rear ? I think links to parts should be put in a sticky its a good not to pricey mod.

[LumpyVR4]

Finally finished. My 7 day rotation sucks.

 

 

A little out of focus, but you get the idea. I've only been on a tentative first bed in drive. There is still some air in the system but even with the lite breaking I was doing I can tell things are working a lot better than when I started.

[QUKNEZ]

I've seen different ways of bleeding the brakes on youtube. Can I ask how your bleeding yours? I think I'm confident enough to replace the pads and rotors on my GSR but I dont want to get the 'bleeding' part wrong...

[mat]

I've seen different ways of bleeding the brakes on youtube. Can I ask how your bleeding yours? I think I'm confident enough to replace the pads and rotors on my GSR but I dont want to get the 'bleeding' part wrong...

you shouldnt have to bleed the brakes when replacing pads and rotors, unless you have another issue you are trying to sort

 

you only need to bleed them if you have a leak that you fixed or you disconnect a brake line which isnt necessary for pads and rotors

[QUKNEZ]

Cheers for that Mat.

 

So I saw a youtube clip saying that you need to have the handbrake off (relieve unnecessary pressure) and the brake fluid top off (prevent air leaks) before doing the job...is this necessary when just doing the pads and rotors??

Edited by QUKNEZ, 20 August 2014 - 03:09 AM.

[LumpyVR4]

You won't be able to remove the rear calipers from the rotor if the hand brake is still on.

 

As far as fluid goes, when you replace the pads you have to push the caliper pistons in, and the fluid ends up back in the master cylinder. I suppose you could crack your master cylinder lid to allow the air out as the fluid goes back in. Don't know about air leaks?

[QUKNEZ]

cheers for that LumpyVR4. I should be set to do the job next week with everyones help on here!

[Evo-00x]

Just a question, is it really worth doing the Outlander change?

I was just looking at the pics and even though the Outlander has a larger diameter rotor, there's an awful lot of wasted surface area between the pad and the rotor centre that doesn't get used? 

It would be a minor upgrade I guess. What we want are bigger pads too lol

 

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[LumpyVR4]

Yes, I think it is definitely worth the small cost of the different mounts if you are replacing the rotors anyway. It's obviously not like you've just fitted 8 pots, but the car stops noticeably better. It's like the stock brakes popped some roids.

Edited by LumpyVR4, 05 November 2014 - 11:57 AM.