81 replies to this topic

[EVL20T]

The fwd 1.8 efi cc lancer sedan lines should be the same

[Geo&Kez]

Go to a brake shop and get it from there, they call it 'bundy' I think. Buy it by the metre and shape it yourself.

Yes weld your floor. Maybe add some armour plate if your going to ghosty it of cliffs.

[mat]

Maybe add some armour plate if your going to ghosty it of cliffs.

Sorry Geo&Kez I dont understand what you mean by ghosty it of cliffs? Im thinking your being silly but not sure, as armour plate would be expensive 

[Geo&Kez]

Lol, yeah just being silly dude. You'll get use to that.

When I was a kid, you get your BMX bike going flat out, aim it at something (jumps, jetty's, lakes, cliffs) then jump off the back of the bike letting it carry on to the target with no rider. We called it a 'ghosty', and it wasn't good for the bike.

Kids just don't know how to have fun anymore...........

[ENGINR]

DON'T try and make your own fuel lines if you haven't got the right equipment or know what you're doing!!

 

It'll be a bit of a mission installing the lines under the car if you don't have access to a hoist but you could either try and source parts from a wrecker or go brand new.

 

Sorry to see that happen mate, your run of bad luck will surely end soon!  Keep at it.

[ENGINR]

It might even be worth looking into folding up some sort of alloy bash shields for your fuel and brake lines and fixing them to the underside of your car if you're going to be driving on those sort of roads on a regular basis.  Some alloy C-section, rivet a couple of pieces of alloy angle to the legs of the C and you have a nice channel section with mounting surfaces that you can use.

Edited by ENGINR, 05 August 2014 - 10:10 PM.

[mat]

The fwd 1.8 efi cc lancer sedan lines should be the same

Im going to ring my local wrecker and see if they have any, with any luck this will solve my problem

 

Lol, yeah just being silly dude. You'll get use to that.

When I was a kid, you get your BMX bike going flat out, aim it at something (jumps, jetty's, lakes, cliffs) then jump off the back of the bike letting it carry on to the target with no rider. We called it a 'ghosty', and it wasn't good for the bike.

Kids just don't know how to have fun anymore...........

hehe, hopefully i wont be doing ghostying with my car in the near future 

 

DON'T try and make your own fuel lines if you haven't got the right equipment or know what you're doing!!

 

It'll be a bit of a mission installing the lines under the car if you don't have access to a hoist but you could either try and source parts from a wrecker or go brand new.

 

Sorry to see that happen mate, your run of bad luck will surely end soon!  Keep at it.

If i dont have any luck at the wrecker

I was gonna buy this:http://www.ebay.com....id=676252665433

 

and do this:

 

seems fairly straight forward or is it harder than it looks?

 

It might even be worth looking into folding up some sort of alloy bash shields for your fuel and brake lines and fixing them to the underside of your car if you're going to be driving on those sort of roads on a regular basis.  Some alloy C-section, rivet a couple of pieces of alloy angle to the legs of the C and you have a nice channel section with mounting surfaces that you can use.

 

Yeah ill have to do something, i do roughly 40kms of dirt road everyday and itll be like that until the kids are old enough to catch the bus, so still a good few years

 

[steve4g]

That is an evo 3 replica front bar
Evo 1-3 intercooler

I have a glove box here if ur interested

Also have the stereo brackets so you can fit the stereo in properly

hey mate i also just baught a gsr and need stereo brackets how much you after

[mat]

hey mate i also just baught a gsr and need stereo brackets how much you after

sorry steve4g i already got them off him, unless he had more than one set?

[jack be nimble]

The flare tool you posted is a single flare tool. You need a double flare for brake lines and the factory uses double flares for the fuel line too. I put a gsr fuel tank it my proton and double flared the end to fit the gsr connector to the flex at the tank.

As geo said, brake shop will be able to fix it, with bundy tube. If it was me, id replace it with the next size bigger tube, but you are probably ok

[mat]

thanks jack of all, already got it fixed, went to the break shop and got them to make them up, only had to replace 2, cost $100

 

for anyone interested - genuine mitsubishi fuel hardline was $85 but the guy i spoke to said they didnt make them anymore and there might not be any left

[mat]

It might even be worth looking into folding up some sort of alloy bash shields for your fuel and brake lines and fixing them to the underside of your car if you're going to be driving on those sort of roads on a regular basis.  Some alloy C-section, rivet a couple of pieces of alloy angle to the legs of the C and you have a nice channel section with mounting surfaces that you can use.

so i bought a 2m length of c channel steel to cover my hardlines, i had a thought that putting a 2m length of steel under my car could be dangerous, if the front of the c channel steel was to drop down for some reason and hit the road, is it likely to go through the floor and kill someone in the back seat? so im thinking of cutting them into smaller sections and placing them between the plastic clips that hold the hardlines, at least if the fall off they wont do anything. how would you go about joining the alloy angle or similar to the bottom of the car? weld, screw, bolt? will it rust if i put holes in my floor?

[ENGINR]

You could rivet or screw the section to the floor. I'd probably rivett it and use urethane as well to help hold it in place and waterproof the interface between the section and floor. Shorter lengths would be easier to work with, but make for more ends that could get caught on things, unless you butt them together.

[ENGINR]

I would have also used alloy instead of steel. Weight being the main factor.

[mat]

You could rivet or screw the section to the floor. I'd probably rivett it and use urethane as well to help hold it in place and waterproof the interface between the section and floor. Shorter lengths would be easier to work with, but make for more ends that could get caught on things, unless you butt them together.

thanks for the info

yeah i didnt think about the ends getting caught on stuff, i could butt them together quiet easily so thats ok

 

I would have also used alloy instead of steel. Weight being the main factor.

yeah makes sense but i dont think my car is going to break any land speed records any time soon so ill use it for now and might upgrade to alloy later 

[ENGINR]

The tricky part will be working out where to put the fasteners so that you can access them from inside the car and not put your drill bit through any wiring harnesses/cables etc in the cabin when you drill the holes!  As I said in my earlier posts, I'd be using rivets and urethane.  Tec-screws are a bit nasty IMO and I avoid using them unless I absolutely have to.  Rivets are neat and won't really intrude too much into the cabin if you decide to use the rivet gun from under the car, whereas screws will leave points that'll eventually wear through carpet.

 

Keep us posted on how you go, I'm very interested to see how you tackle the challenge.

[mat]

out with the old in with the new: fixed fuel pump issue

[mat]

in its natural habitat:

 

[evo-gsr]

I would be raising it up a bit and rallying the fuck outta those roads!!!

[Geo&Kez]

^ Yep, what he said.