21 replies to this topic

[Evo-00x]

Yeah that's the bearing I'm talking about Tim = closest to the bellhousing

You have to remove the sleeve first, then the circlip, then you can press from under 3rd to get them all off - see pics 001 and 002.

But I still cringe when placing plates under 3rd gear ever since I ruined a couple of 3rd gears trying to remove it that way, due to not having much surface area of 3rd gear to work with. Once there was a slight slip of a plate and it chipped 3rd, then the other time I remember pressing the damn thing to the point where I know the bearing should have cracked and let go already, but I felt the pressure build up from the 9T press to where it wasn't going to budge anymore, then 'crack'.. broke a tooth off and also ruined the little subgear. I still try to remove them under 3rd in the first instance but if I get that same experience, which is more likely than not, I wont go further and risk it.   

I always have a brand new bearing to put on anyway, so I end up dismantling the existing bearing so its just the inner race still on the shaft, grind 2 grooves on the race (as per pic 003), put on the bearing separators and remove it.

I've nick-named it the 'bastard bearing'.   

Perhaps with a stronger press it will make a difference, but it would be good to know how you prep under 3rd gear to do yours

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[matts4g]

Ive got a poxy proton box that was crunching every gear and really hard to get into 2nd. Had to replace a gearbox seal on driveshaft. Whole box had to be pulled apart to replace tiny seal. I put penrite synthetic gearbox oil and now rarely crunches and smooth gear shifts. Happy days