Okay im losing the plot now , if it doesnt get fixed im going to sell her so i have less headaches.
Currently, all the time when you initially apply acceleration, the revs drop. If you smash on the accelerator it pretty much wants to stall so you have to very slowly apply revs to get it up and going.
car is running 93t, has 6 boost manifold , gt3071r, 550cc injectors, fuel pressure regulator and gauge, evo 3 piping and PWR cooler, Spark Plugs are fine, Haltech e8 (Map sensor was replaced recently) and also replaced TPS.
This has been an on going thing but i recon its starting to get much worse and its doing my head in.
If you know the problem FANASTIC, if not im happy to test things etc to enable progression but please no dumb anwsers etc like maybe you lost your cat.
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Running Issues
#1
Posted 18 August 2014 - 08:32 PM
#2
Posted 18 August 2014 - 09:45 PM
is the fuel pump working correctly? in my old car (nissan) it did a similar thing, wasnt getting enough fuel even though you could still hear the pump, replaced pump and it was good
#3
Posted 18 August 2014 - 10:12 PM
#4
Posted 18 August 2014 - 10:50 PM
make sure map sensor line has no cuts or cracks.....leaks. Whilst it is new, the sensor may not be seeing the correct vac if the line is stuffed.
try hooking up laptop and as george said...watch the tps values and also the map sensor
BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
#5
Posted 18 August 2014 - 11:40 PM
fuel pump is working good since fuel pressure is stable at the rail even under load. Will plug in laptop tonight and see if values.
The map sensor is threaded right into the joiner before the throttle plate. Wiring seems fine last i checked but ill check again.
#6
Posted 19 August 2014 - 12:38 AM
well theres your problem MAP sensor goes after the throttle body it need to see both vacuum and boost. i think you mean the intake air temp is just before the throttle body. and even then that should be behind the throttle too.
yes it's me KHUBNER
#7
Posted 19 August 2014 - 01:35 AM
shit yeah thats what i mean, MAP sensor is connected into the manifold sorry and yes the air temp is connected before the throttle plate. Would it make the biggest difference if its before? cause kinda dont wanna remove manifold and drill again for a maybe fix lol
#8
Posted 19 August 2014 - 08:40 AM
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#9
Posted 19 August 2014 - 09:03 AM
#10
Posted 19 August 2014 - 01:17 PM
#11
Posted 20 August 2014 - 12:23 AM
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#12
Posted 20 August 2014 - 09:08 AM
Does it only happen at a certain rev point (i.e. only happens above 4000 rpm) or does it happen at any rev range?
Does it only happen on take off? or does it also happen when cruising then applying throttle?
My first guess would be an overfuelling issue, have you dyno'd it at all (to check the fuel air ratio)?
Alternatively it could be the clutch about to go. I had a similar problem a while ago, where it would accelerate for a bit (like go from 3k to 4k rpm) then drop (in that scenario back to 3.5k).
If it is a shagged clutch, then that would explain why it is worse when accelerating hard.
Personally, i would get a dyno run done first (and explain the situation the the dyno dude, so he can log transient throttle runs, rather than just a power run), to check the fuel ratios, just in case something funky has happened ruining your ratio's.
If that doesn't show any problems, then i'd get the clutch looked at.
Edited by rvrftw, 20 August 2014 - 09:14 AM.
#13
Posted 02 September 2014 - 07:27 AM
okay tps is working fine as per haltech program (HALWIN)
i have videos also of when the car is idling with full throttle causing the car to stall
and another video of progression throttle
#14
Posted 02 September 2014 - 09:07 AM
This video is showing tps signal with ignition on
This video is the car running , once i go full open throttle car stalls
And this is gradual throttle with car running
#15
Posted 02 September 2014 - 11:07 AM
#16
Posted 02 September 2014 - 11:21 AM
No wideband
You need a wideband...
Or maybe just tip in a heap of accel pump and see if it makes it better
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
#17
Posted 02 September 2014 - 12:04 PM
You need a wideband...
Yep. ECU and software and stuff will tell you what's going into an engine. WB is the only thing that'll tell you what's coming out.
#18
Posted 02 September 2014 - 08:24 PM
#19
Posted 02 September 2014 - 09:10 PM
http://highway66speedshop.shop033.com/
http://highway66spee...t-8ft-3844.html
#20
Posted 02 September 2014 - 09:50 PM
okay i ordered the wideband since atleast that will settle another problem hopefully.
where do i install the sensor in the exhaust ie location , dump or how far from turbo or close
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