104 replies to this topic

[CLuTZ]

I think it's low enough you can take the 3 side skirts off now! Have you thought about it?

[unhuman]

The side skirts are from a IV, the endcaps are from a III if thats what you mean?

 

I like how it flows back from the II front lip, so happy with the exterior.

 

Its going for a WOF this week, technically it should fail and need a re-cert because I have changed the suspension settings. If it does well then it will be 4G63 + big turbo time.

 

Otherwise that'll just be on the back burner and enjoy it as a weekend car for now.

[CLuTZ]

Na I meant put the factory skirts back on? IMO the previous height was perfection

[unhuman]

Some photos from a Evo meet & greet I took the car to on the weekend:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Considering the combos some of the cars were packing I don't think my 4G93 + TD05 setup is going to cut it!

 

Plus I'm still chasing gremlins in the driveline.

 

At the very least it has a busted drivers side inner cv joint which which is what I am hoping is causing the shudder that goes through the car when turning left.

 

Also it still has the feel of a slipping clutch in the low RPM range but comes right when on boost, very annoying feeling which a new centre diff seemed to help at first but it now feels even worse.

 

It possibly still has the auto rear diff ratio which could be causing issues which I need to look into.

 

Pretty much ready to just part ways with the 93 and look at a 63 plus decent turbo.

 

[evo-gsr]

Some nice looking cars in those pics!

[VIN18M]

Car looks unreal!

[EV0300]

Nice turnout, you wont regret going the 63 its the way to go.

[!Jonzap!]

nice mods, best looking libero I've seen

[White Knight]

^ i agree totally. I love the look of the libero! Want one now....

[unhuman]

Thanks guys.

 

I'm taking it to Evoparts next week to look into the driveline issues its got, going to talk about him building me 4G63 while I'm there.

 

Was thinking of rebuilding my TD05-16G with a 20G, something like this.

 

Thoughts? Or am I behind the times on this (haven't look at turbos for like 5 years so feel a bit out of touch).

[evo-gsr]

In my experience do not use that comp cover and wastegate combo. Its dogshit.
The comp cover is ok but your better off getting your factory cover machined out to suit the comp wheel and using and upgraded wastegate from GTPumps or similar.
The Kinugawa wastegate setup is shithouse the bracket that holds the gate to the comp cover flexes and fucks with boost control.

[unhuman]

Thanks, got a lot of research / talking to people to do.

 

Will be using an external so if I can find a comp wheel / cover similar to above without having to pay for the internal parts that'll be good.

Edited by unhuman, 23 March 2016 - 09:32 AM.

[evo-gsr]

Should be ok with external gate. Still....I would lean towards machining the factory housing out to accommodate the 20g wheel.

[CLuTZ]

Damn nice turnout alright!

I would do a clutch drag test first:

 

 

Failing that, maybe consider looking into your Viscous Coupling as the culprit of the clutch slip symptoms? Also check to see if Steve Murch at MSE (Motorsport Engineering) in Auckland is still taking turbos from the public to rebuild. He's an honest bloke and can go pretty amazing things with MHI turbines!

[ENGINR]

Steve Murch is a top bloke - I very strongly support Dre's suggestion you speak with him.

[unhuman]

Agreed, but last I heard he had pretty much gone into hiding years ago as he got sick of dealing with customers directly. Not sure how to contact him now.

 

And I will give the clutch travel test a go thanks.

[ENGINR]

I'm pretty sure he has a Facebook page, or MSE does.  You could try PM'ing him through that.  Last time I spoke with him (a few years ago) he made it very clear he was getting tired of peoples' bulls**t and lack of common sense.

 

If you make your request for what you want out of the turbo concise and sensible (ie not "I want 400kw atw on my stock 16G - what can you do??") then he might be open to dealing with you?

[BYBY5L]

Did ya see what rear diff was in it?
pics are awesome too, seeing pics like yours make me home sick, also g'z me up for a melb meet...

[unhuman]

Got it back from Evoparts. The large shudder when turning left was the drivers side driveshaft binding up, I assume because of my odd mix of hubs / carriers / arms etc it was effectively too long. Using a mix of shafts and CVs Jeremy was able to make slightly shorter ones for both sides, works fine now.

 

Next job is to simplify the interior wiring while the car still runs (so it can be tested) before I pull the engine. 10 years of piecemeal wiring = one large mess now.

 

Also binning all HVAC parts, don't have any heater controls so don't need the heater.

 

 

[unhuman]

^ Still working on this, it's taking longer then I thought. Mainly because the longer I work on it the more OCD I'm getting.

 

Plus there is a 12 week waiting period for my Racefab exhaust and intake manifolds so I'm in no real rush. While the interior is out I might as well do a proper job of it.

 

 

So first off the HVAC went.

 

 

I managed to spill some coolant while removing the heater core and thus figured it would be best to rip out any of the sound deading in case any other moisture was been trapped beneath it and the floor causing future rust issues.

 

 

 

All of the wiring that I've added for the gauges / SAFC / turbo timer are on their own separate sub-looms, as opposed to everything been spliced into the radio harness which had led to the birds nest behind the dash.

 

Then I went through the entire interior loom and removed everything that wasn't necessary. I am working from the plug back to the fuse box for everything, so this isn't a hacked up loom, it's stripped down to the bare essentials.

 

 

I bought a connector de-pinning tool so the entire length of each wire is being removed. There's no going back!

 

Next step, primer, base and clear:

 

 

By this time the 50m of braided loom sleeving from ebay had turned up.

 

So far I've done up to the junction box back, including the battery in the boot and all the audio.

 

 

 

 

All the ends are heat shrunk, there won't be any insulation tape left by the time I'm finished.

 

Next is to wrap from the junction box across to the ECU.

Edited by unhuman, 28 May 2016 - 04:43 AM.