15 replies to this topic

[Benzo4gT]

Hi all, I have a busted fuel line on top of the pump cradle, the part where the hose meets the pipe 

 

It was tightened by He man on a crack bender, impossible to get off without damaging it. I just cut it at the outlet and went inside to put my eyeball back in it's socket after all the straining.

 

My question is, what is the procedure for doing what is in post 17 of this thread?  ↓↓↓  And where are the fitting sourced?

 

http://www.4gtuner.c...ank-fuel-pumps/

[jack be nimble]

Undo flex line at body connector. Remove cradle with flex attached, and take to vice. Use vice to hold hex on pipe, thread ring spanner down flex and undo

[Benzo4gT]

The solid pipe from the cradle twisted and split trying to undo it, hence the cutting of the hard line. I need to either buy another one or modify this one. I think modifying it is the way to go for me, I'll upgrade the fuel lines ready for E85

 

Out of interest, do any other cradles fit/work? I might throw up a WTB

[evo-gsr]

Are nimbus the same?
There are a few at my local wreckers if they are.

[Benzo4gT]

I don't think they will have the third pipe for the other pump feed. Nimbus being fwd don't have a driveshaft hump in the tank.

[jack be nimble]

That pipe always twists and splits. Thats why you undo it in the vice

[Cranked]

Drill it out and fit a 3/8 barb to Jic fitting (-6 an ). That's what I've done to fit 200 series ethanol/methanol fuel line. I have pics but not near computer, only on phone atm.

[jack be nimble]

Evooox had some pretty good pics in his thread

[Cranked]

Here's what I did, it's to eliminate all rubber hoses for e85 conversion whilst still using the factory fuel hard lines.

 

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[Cranked]

So obviously tigged the 3/8 barb to JIC onto cradle, then cut the factory adaptor of the rear flex to hard line, and Tigged another JIC fitting to that, Fuel filter I put a -6 fitting on, welded a -6 to each end of factory fuel rail, -6 into and out of Saard FPR. Then made up all the 200 series hoses needed to fit between, except for FPR to return (yet to be done) All the fittings and hose owes me probably about $200, then atop that I have a Walbro 460Lph pump to go in as well, which was $200 also.

[Benzo4gT]

Looks like perfect solution, thanks for the pics mate

[Evo-00x]

Here's what I did with part numbers and shit  http://www.4gtuner.c...d-coupe/page-30

[Benzo4gT]

Awesome Rob, looks like this is the way I will go. Happy to note that it can be done with a regular welder

 

Did you make your own hard lines as well?

[Evo-00x]

Yeah mate. 3/8" alloy tubing from fuel pump cradle to the engine bay in the OEM fuel brakcets under the car. If you read my thread you will see pics and info me doing it. I used the factory fuel feed line as my return line.

 

I got a special AN tube flare maker tool and tube nuts and sleeves to make flared ends for the alloy fuel line but it leaked at idle. I cut the flares off and tried again. It leaked again. Tried again. Leaked again. The alloy tubing is too weak and I don't trust a flared alloy fitting when you tighten them as the flare thins out cracks and breaks off!

 

So I thought "FUCK IT". I called Speedflo and asked them what else they recommended I can use as the tube fittings are a PITA and not reliable for alloy tubing. They put me onto their  3/8" alloy tube to AN compression fittings. I spent a good deal of time talking with the guys on the phone about their strength and he said they have tested them in shop to 100psi and kept going. Unfortunately that's all their pressure gauge went to so they put more into it and it still held. NOTE: If you add our base fuel pressure at idle and say 30psi boost you still wont see fuel pressure pass 80psi. So the compression fittings will do the job.

 

I noticed that you also get more surface area on the alloy tubing with a compression fitting than what you do with a tube flare. Its held on by the outside area of the tubing. A flare is only held on by a thin flare. I trust the compression fitting over a flare on my alloy fuel line anyday! I did them up not so tight and it got a slight drip at idle. I tightened them up a bit more and there was no more leaks. So you really have to give them a good tighten up too. See pic, except mine came with alloy olives. They are cheap to replace so get some spares. Once you've tighten them up they compress on so fkn tight they wont come off!  

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[jack be nimble]

I have seen tests on those compression fittings. The pipe will rupture/split before the fitting pops off. The olive deforms a ring into the pipe that just digs in tighter the more pressure goes on them.

[Cranked]

^^^^ well there u go, even better