11 replies to this topic

[evopwr]

Just running a sanity check of items/services required and "may as well get while it's apart" for an evo motor (7-bolt) rebuild.

This is a complete 'tear down' type of rebuild.

Please add whatever else you think is necessary.

This list doesn't include ancillary items (turbo, injectors etc).

Bottom End
Block machining and preparation (magnaflux, honing, boring with torque plating)
Bottom end balance (flywheel, crank, rods, pistons, harmonic balancer)
Bottom end gasket/seal kit including head gasket
crankshaft tunnel honing
Forged connecting rods
Forged piston kit (piston, rings, pins)
Forged crankshaft
crankshaft bearings (plain + thrust)
connecting rod bearings
water pump
oil pump
balance shaft bearing kit OR removal kit
oil pan bolts (eg ARP2000)
Harmonic balancer bolts
oil pan drain bolt
Crankshaft scrape plate
Upgraded main studs (eg ARP2000)
Water pump

Top End
Cylinder head machining, porting, resurfacing and preparation
Upgraded cylinder head studs (ARP2000)
intake/exhaust valves
Camshafts
adjustable cam gears
valve springs with retainers
valve seats (?)
Top end gasket/seal kit
intake/exhaust brass (?) valve guides
hydraulic lifters
cylinder head studs intake
cylinder head studs exhaust



-Alex

Edited by evopwr, 24 February 2015 - 05:39 AM.

[jack be nimble]

Leave the valve seats and bronze valve guides if you can. No need to do anything with them. Seats will even take +1mm valves. Just a 3angle valve seat job or a 5 angle if you can.

core plugs. Stainless in the hard to change spots and cheap in the easy to change spots.

looking good otherwise.

[evopwr]

Jack, 'core plugs' - what do you mean here? installation of stainless thread insert via helicoil kit?

[jack be nimble]

Na, welsh plugs. Go in the block to seal up the water jacket. Is about 3 on the block under the exhaust minifold. They are the easy ones. Probably one behind flywheel. Thats where the stainless one goes.

You want the cheap ones to rot out and the bastard one to live forever.

[BYBY5L]

^ first thing I thought
2nd thought, pulley bearings?
Timing belt tensioner too?

Edited by BYBY5L, 24 February 2015 - 08:38 AM.

[Evo-00x]

You forgot to add "balance the pressure plate" in with all those bottom end rotational parts.

Yes, get a 3 angle valve job.

If you're staying oem valve size or even 1mm oversize, then that can be done without getting new valve seats installed.

It's Manganese bronze valve guides.

3G Hydraulic lifters

Mitsubishi genuine MLS headgasket.

Head stud kit is all of them. Get L19 ARP brand or similar. I don't think MAP make the A1 studs anymore. 

A good crank pulley!

Enlarge the oil filter housing port before you assemble the engine!! This will help reduce oil pressure psi since you've deleted the balance shafts. Don't change the spring rate until after the engine is worn in and you can judge whether you need another spring or not.

Get the water pump's water pipe that runs underneath the exhaust manifold blasted or acid dipped it. Get the insides cleaned up of any corrosion and then protect the internals of it. I taped up one end, put some of that fuel tank sealer stuff in it, taped up the other end and then swirled it around to coat the full internals of the pipe with the special paint. It was also pwder coated externally. That bitch aint gonna rust for the next 20 years!

Always good to get new cylinder head manifold studs put into the head for both the intake and exhaust side when you get it reco'd. It doesn't cost much more to do that. Then grab a tube of anti-seize and use it when you go to bolt everything back together. It'll save you many headaches in future! especially when trying to unbolt turbos and exhaust parts.

Use a light coat of Hylomar spray for all of your paper gaskets on the engine.

I always use new welsch plugs in the block. It should be done when the engine gets rebuilt.

[doo doo]

+1 for good harmonic balancer (not included in bottom end balancing btw)- I'd be interested to know if anyone is using/has used a fluid damper actually, other wise the ATI would be my choice- the timing belt sprocket is part of the whole piece so only need the one arp bolt... speaking of timing belts, you left that off your list (with new idlers/tensioner). I would be inclined to put a new hydraulic tensioner on it also. Seeing as you're splashing the cash, you might consider new and upgraded (evo 9 I think) rockers fingers for the head. 

I think I'd go the ARP custom age head studs over L19, specs look a bit better.

[jack be nimble]

Could change up to the professional spec 6 bolt head bolts. That extra 1mm makes them a fair bit stronger. Must ream and tap block and ream head holes to suit

[Evo-00x]

I'd be interested to know if anyone is using/has used a fluid damper actually, other wise the ATI would be my choice...

 

Yep I'm using a Fuidampr unit. I noticed by "sound" that the engine idled a tiny bee's doodle quieter (and that's tiny because I've never seen one!). If it made a small difference at idle then it should theoretically be doing something good for the engine harmonics at 8k rpm you would think. I wouldn't know how to physically measure the difference without the proper equipment. Therefore as for vibrations, hell my entire car vibrates from Prothane engine mounts and lumpy Kelford cams at idle so there is no physical means to test it myself.

[DOUGMO]

alex, I may have a bit of this stuff

 

might save you some good $$

[Evo-00x]

alex, I may have a bit of this stuff

 

might save you some good $$

It comes with a free black EVO 2!!!

[evopwr]

And a second set of widebody fairings!