240 replies to this topic

[vr401]

Check all the vac lines too is what he is suggesting.......They do perish over time from heat etc.

Spot on money.
Anything bolted to inlet manifold or from after AFM through turbo to inlet manifold. Many leaks come from inlet pipe between AFM and turbo.

[vr401]

Let me know what reading you get under STFT.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Spot on money.
Anything bolted to inlet manifold or from after AFM through turbo to inlet manifold. Many leaks come from inlet pipe between AFM and turbo.

Yup, checking it all now. Will make sure it seats on the turbo inlet properly too, Ive had issues in the past with that.

[jack be nimble]

Is your bov plumbed in? High engine vacuum opens them and they can draw unmetered air in.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Is your bov plumbed in? High engine vacuum opens them and they can draw unmetered air in.

Yeh its a plumb back, but I never had the issue on the standard GSR electronics.

 

 

Checked all the intake plumbing, replaced the breather hose on the side of the rocker cover incase that was causing any issues (was old and brittle). Didnt find anything alarmingly bad, no hoses blown off or anything like that. All the vacuum tubing on the back of the throttle body is stil in place. Sprayed some Aerostart around all the couplings, didnt seem to make any difference, so hopefully theres no leaks.

 

Going to do the STFT's now.

 

Its weird, it idles at like 11AFR . but the STFT keeps going up and up.

 

That log is after i took the injectors from 552 to 522.

 

Ill lower them another 30 and go again.

Attached Files

•  EvoScanDataLog_2015.05.17_16.35.33.csv   220.16KB   76 downloads

Edited by 3VOLUTIONIST, 17 May 2015 - 08:39 AM.

[evo-gsr]

I have all my lines cable tied onto their connectors....But I run 30psi on mine so bit more chance of shit wanting to come off etc. Better safe then sorry.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

I have all my lines cable tied onto their connectors....But I run 30psi on mine so bit more chance of shit wanting to come off etc. Better safe then sorry.

You mean the little vacuum lines? Yeh mine are cable tied too, none were blown off when I just checked them, ive had my boost gauge pipe pop off a few times (before I ziptied it). But Im only running like 12psi at the moment.

[evo-gsr]

Yeah....all the smaller rubber lines.
Have you done a boost leak test too?

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Nope. Doesnt want to idle smoothly, no matter what I do. If I tell it the injectors are smaller, then it just keeps adding more fuel and stalls itself at 10AFR. If I tell it the injectors are bigger, it injects less fuel, and stalls itself at 20AFR. It wont actually sit at 14.7. If it's at 10, and starts rising, rather than stopping at 14.7 it just keeps going up to 17/18/19/20 and dies. 

 

In regards to the injector latency, my battery never gets to 14.06 at idle, sits at 13.8 or 13.9. Meaning it's using the 0.792ms Injector battery voltage latency compensation at idle (Whatever that actually does, I dont know)

 

Could all this just be because I'm not running the 399 AFM that this ECU is designed for? Seems like the logical explanation. Nothing else on this car is really "out of spec". It's got most of the sensors the ECU wants, nothing is designed for a wildly different car, the turbo isnt huge, the manifolds are all standard mitsubishi parts.

Edited by 3VOLUTIONIST, 17 May 2015 - 09:17 AM.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Yeah....all the smaller rubber lines.
Have you done a boost leak test too?

No, not yet. I need to make some kind of tool to do that :/ Really should get around to it though. But on boost it's fine haha 

It seems to have problems with vacuum driving.

[evo-gsr]

Its quite a simple thing to make.....only requires half an hour max.

[vr401]

Nope. Doesnt want to idle smoothly, no matter what I do. If I tell it the injectors are smaller, then it just keeps adding more fuel and stalls itself at 10AFR. If I tell it the injectors are bigger, it injects less fuel, and stalls itself at 20AFR. It wont actually sit at 14.7. If it's at 10, and starts rising, rather than stopping at 14.7 it just keeps going up to 17/18/19/20 and dies.

In regards to the injector latency, my battery never gets to 14.06 at idle, sits at 13.8 or 13.9. Meaning it's using the 0.792ms Injector battery voltage latency compensation at idle (Whatever that actually does, I dont know)

Could all this just be because I'm not running the 399 AFM that this ECU is designed for? Seems like the logical explanation. Nothing else on this car is really "out of spec". It's got most of the sensors the ECU wants, nothing is designed for a wildly different car, the turbo isnt huge, the manifolds are all standard mitsubishi parts.

I'm just looking at your log and battery voltage reading says 13.9v

looking at your log I have to ask one more thing. Do you have spare Oxygen sensor. Readings I am seeing are not what it should do. It does not oscillate the way I think it should so it may be defective.
just something I see and think of now.
If you have spare or you can borrow someone's second hand, it would be good to test it.


Forgot to say, if the voltage is 13.9v then ecu interpolate between 14.06 and one below but 13.9 being very close to 14.06 it almost uses the latency from 14.06

Edited by vr401, 17 May 2015 - 09:36 AM.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Its quite a simple thing to make.....only requires half an hour max.

Ill put it on my list

 

 

I'm just looking at your log and battery voltage reading says 13.9v

 

looking at your log I have to ask one more thing.  Do you have spare Oxygen sensor. Readings I am seeing are not what it should do. It does not oscillate the way I think it should so it may be defective.  

just something I see and think of now.

If you have spare or you can borrow someone's second hand, it would be good to test it.

I pulled out my old 2 wire, and replaced it with a brand new one of these: http://www.ebay.com....=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I dont have any others (2 wire got mangled when I removed it). But I assumed the 4 wire was fine considering its only two weeks old. Is there a method to test them? 

 

Checking the sensor now. The heater circuit is getting battery voltage when the keys are ON. So thats definitely working. 

Edited by 3VOLUTIONIST, 17 May 2015 - 09:50 AM.

[vr401]

Hmmmmm
To be honest, i don't like that sensor.
Maybe you can get someone's to test.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Hmmmmm
To be honest, i don't like that sensor.
Maybe you can get someone's to test.

No good? Whats wrong with them? I tried not to be  a cheapskate and buy the $5 chinese one

 

I thought maybe the output voltages might be different, but then it would just idle at a different AFR wouldnt it? It wouldnt fluctuate wildly between 10 and 20. Well, thats my theory anyway.

 

Im going to go borrow a 399 MAF to test. Will report findinds in an hour or so

Edited by 3VOLUTIONIST, 17 May 2015 - 10:17 AM.

[vr401]

Sensor voltage as a signal is from 0 to 1 volt. 0.1v is 10% so it does make difference .

What's with stock evo 3 ecu. Can you plug it to see if it idles good?
My last thought would be AFM difference as your problem.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Sensor voltage as a signal is from 0 to 1 volt. 0.1v is 10% so it does make difference .

What's with stock evo 3 ecu. Can you plug it to see if it idles good?
My last thought would be AFM difference as your problem.

I can't plug my GSR ECU in as I made pin swaps, spliced wires, etc. It runs fine with the 390 injectors, GSR MAF, and GSR ECU. As that was what I was running after my evo 6 ECU died, but before I got the Evo 7 ECU.
Just picked up a 399 off a very kind fellow, going to try that once I get home

Edited by 3VOLUTIONIST, 17 May 2015 - 10:52 AM.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Well, I dont think the 399 completely solved the problem, it still seems to want to go lean, idling in the mid 15's. But I tried to replicate the lean out situation whilst driving, at when the AFR's start climbing, the ECU does something and they drop back down to 12/13. It looks like the ripple on a rectified sine wave actually (ive been studing for my electrical systems unit too much..).

I went out and did some light driving, trying to replicate the symptoms as much as possible, heres the log. That was done with the injectors scaled to 542cc/min by the way.

I was thinking, if open loop doesn't use STFT, then it must be a software issue, not a hardware issue, because it idles perfectly in open loop (AFR 14.7 . So that rules out a vacuum leak & injector scaling doesn't it?

Attached Files

•  EvoScanDataLog_2015.05.17_19.31.22.csv   1.71MB   68 downloads

Edited by 3VOLUTIONIST, 17 May 2015 - 01:29 PM.

[vr401]

_{this is my oxygen sensor at idle}

 

_{and this is yours}

 

[vr401]

higher the voltage richer the mixture is