240 replies to this topic

[3VOLUTIONIST]

I followed the guide for the evo x. Obviously with different pins though.

Hopefully the JDM 7 ECU will work!!

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Right!! 

All sorted!!

 

Picked up a JDM Evo 7 ECU this afternoon. Just finished installing it, I put all my wiring back to "Evo 6 spec" so I could follow the Evo 6 to Evo 7 ECU swap guide, but turns out theres only 3 or 4 wires that need swapping anyway, because most of the stuff you swap is sensors on the Evo 6 and 7 that the GSR simply doesnt have.

 

ECUFlash pulled the ROM first go, test write was successful, changed one fuel cell by one increment, and it flashed it successfully too. And EvoScan logged it perfectly as well

 

Ill have to change the injectors and the MAF in the morning, but it should start and run fine because apparently the MAF scalings are practically the same, close enough that most people dont bother changing it O.o

 

My advice after doing all this? Use an Evo 7 ECU from the get go and doent waste your time with an Evo 5/6 ECU, spend the extra money and save yourself the headaches that I had to go through haha

[jack be nimble]

Agree. Evo 7,8,9 is the go. Did you get the merlin guides? They are pretty good and save a lot of searching through dsmtuner and similar for info.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Agree. Evo 7,8,9 is the go. Did you get the merlin guides? They are pretty good and save a lot of searching through dsmtuner and similar for info.

Yup! Got the 7/8/9 guide printed, covered, and binded at officeworks for less than twenty bucks

I'm not going to be changing anything hugely just yet, once I change the turbo (which I can do now that I've done everything else) I'll have some tuning to do I imagine.

 

Here in Aus we can only really do the 7 cant we? unless you get the different plugs from somewhere (eg spoolinup) to allow you to use the late model three plug ECU's. whereas the UK 260 Evo 8 uses the 4 plugs

Edited by 3VOLUTIONIST, 21 April 2015 - 03:27 PM.

[jack be nimble]

I have 2 spare sets of the 8/9 plugs and pins. There is a few of the 8 ecu that have the same plugs as you have. I thought the 9 style plugs on the 8 ecu was not that common.
the merlin evo10 guide is also good. It explains some of the stuff better than the other guide. The evo10 ecu is no use to us, it uses canbus for some of its comms and I dont think possible to make it work. There is some whispers that a sonata uses a late evo ecu also. Maybe 2002-2006ish. They have the evo style squared rocker covers. Its sugested that the load scale needs changing as the hyundai is na.

good to hear you have had a win.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

I assumed all the Evo 8 ECU's here in aus would be the 3 plug design, I saw an 8 RS ECU on gumtree, got excited, then saw it only had three plugs haha

But its sorted now! (hopefully)

 

Interestingly enough, the immobilizer had been disabled in the ECU, with FFFF being put in the ROM. Maybe someone's played with the computer before.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Note (if someone ever follows this as a guide) if your car wont start, swap pins 8 and 22. On some Evo 7 ECU pinouts (eg. The one I printed off) pin 8 is the AC switch, and pin 22 is the fuel pump, if your car wont start, swap them back, some ECU's appear to have these swapped, some dont. I couldnt get mine to start, turns out I didn't need to swap the pins in the first place.

Edited by 3VOLUTIONIST, 22 April 2015 - 08:13 AM.

[vr401]

Jdm evo7 ecu has stock immobilizer disabled, hence you read FFFF.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Jdm evo7 ecu has stock immobilizer disabled, hence you read FFFF.

Ahh ok, I was reading Merlin's tuning guide and it was saying make sure you take down the immobiliser code, which confused me when I saw mine was FFFF

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Not sure if anyones able to help out here or not (might be the wrong forum for these questions), but anyway. On the GSR ECU, when you accelerate, then lift off the throttle, the engine kept making power (if that makes any sense) and the exhaust burbled, but on the stock Evo 7 ECU, the second you come off the throttle, the injectors cut off (completely, I can see that via the wideband) and the car goes from accelerating/crusing to engine braking, and the front end dives down a bit, it's not very comfortable to drive :/

I'm thinking it's the "Decel fuel cut delay" tables in the ECU, however they use a Load v units table, and I'm guessing the units represent how much time elapses before the injectors cut off, so I changed them from the 5-25 range, up to 75, however it doesn't seem to make any difference. It's also running silly rich, short term fuel trims are +25%, and it idles/cruises at 10.5AFR, yet it's fine under load (so far), more logging to do this weekend.

 

Had an interesting drive to uni this morning.. At low throttle and low engine load (freeway cruising) the car was stuttering and intermittently losing power (Wideband read air) and the accelerator pedal did nothing. It would come back by itself eventually and the stuttering would resume, felt like a fuel cut, which it would be now that I think about it, considering the Wideband was reading Air (duh). I copied all of the data to do with the MAF from the evo 6 ROM, into the Evo 7 one, and it drove home perfectly fine, so hopfeully that's solved that issue.

 

It's also throwing a bunch of CEL codes:

Heated Oxygen sensor circuit fault (front) (P0130)             <-

Heated Oxygen sensor heater circuit fault (front) (P0135)  <- Not exactly sure why theres two of these codes, thought there should only be one?

EGR Control solenoid circuit (P0403)                                  <- Not concerning as the car doesnt have EGR

Generator FR terminal circuit malfunction (P1500)<-Not really concerning either as I have read that the late model ECUs controlled the alternator, however our harnesses are different.

The two that got me confused were:

TPS (main) circuit malfunction (P0120) <-No clue what that one's on about.

Barometric pressure circuit malfunction (P0105) <- Being a JDM ECU is this talking about the MAP sensor on the intake manifold?

 

 

Edited by 3VOLUTIONIST, 24 April 2015 - 03:48 PM.

[jack be nimble]

Afaik evo7 had a 1 bar sensor (from the dark depths somewhere) and yes that one of your faults.

tps fault may be the idle switch?
Yep, variable voltage altenator

130, 135. One refers to the heater for the o2 sensor, the other is for the sensor itself.
Maybe you can run the nb wire from the wideband into it. Not sure how you are logging the wb at the minute.

[jack be nimble]

Your gsr ecu is meant to cut fuel when decel. It is triggered by the idle switch on the tps.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Afaik evo7 had a 1 bar sensor (from the dark depths somewhere) and yes that one of your faults.

tps fault may be the idle switch?
Yep, variable voltage altenator

130, 135. One refers to the heater for the o2 sensor, the other is for the sensor itself.
Maybe you can run the nb wire from the wideband into it. Not sure how you are logging the wb at the minute.

I'm not logging the wideband at the moment, I just watch the trace on the LED screen for anything unusual. I have rigged up a 3.5mm to 2.5mm male to male stereo plug cable that should allow me to log to my laptop/tactrix plug, going to try tomorrow

So, dead ISC? That'll be number three, damn things.

Any idea about the o2 sensor fault for the sensor itself? I still get a voltage reading for it on my SAFC-II, and it was replaced ~12 months ago 

 

Your gsr ecu is meant to cut fuel when decel. It is triggered by the idle switch on the tps.

It used to, it just took way longer than this ECU, felt nicer to drive imo. For example if youre hammering it around a bend and you lift off the throttle the car wouldnt lurch forward because the ECU has cut fuel instantly, it would take a few seconds.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

So, during warm up and high load situations when the ECU is running in open loop, the AFR's are what they should be, it's only when the ECU is in closed loop that they get very rich (idling once warm/light load driving). That means the o2 sensor fault code makes sense at least. 

[jack be nimble]

Not dead isc. Tps needs looking at. Or maybe just adjusting.
Look at post 4 in link below. It is ecmlink pic of a log. It shows what the tps and ics traces should look like and their interactions. Unfortunately it doesnt show the idle switch and injector duty.
http://www.4gtuner.c...ntrol-problems/

[jack be nimble]

So, during warm up and high load situations when the ECU is running in open loop, the AFR's are what they should be, it's only when the ECU is in closed loop that they get very rich (idling once warm/light load driving). That means the o2 sensor fault code makes sense at least.

its awesome that you have a great analytical mind and are thinking through your issues. You will get your issues fixed- just keep plugging away at them.
you can use any old o2 sensor. 3 or 4 wire are interchangable. Just the 4 wire has a heater earth wire, 3 wire uses the body to earth heater. I have a handful of them here.

[jack be nimble]

Did you have to change the stepper wires (isc). I read that one of the isc coils need reversed wiring to make the isc work correctly.
I dont know what conversion this would relate to.

Do you study electronics or something?

Edited by jack of all, 24 April 2015 - 11:45 PM.

[3VOLUTIONIST]

Not dead isc. Tps needs looking at. Or maybe just adjusting.
Look at post 4 in link below. It is ecmlink pic of a log. It shows what the tps and ics traces should look like and their interactions. Unfortunately it doesnt show the idle switch and injector duty.
http://www.4gtuner.c...ntrol-problems/

I'm going to go out and test it now and do a general inspection.

 

its awesome that you have a great analytical mind and are thinking through your issues. You will get your issues fixed- just keep plugging away at them.
you can use any old o2 sensor. 3 or 4 wire are interchangable. Just the 4 wire has a heater earth wire, 3 wire uses the body to earth heater. I have a handful of them here.

Yeh I've seen in a few forum posts about ECU conversions, they say swap to a late model evo, yet others say it doesn't need to be done. Guess it needs to be done with my car!

 

Did you have to change the stepper wires (isc). I read that one of the isc coils need reversed wiring to make the isc work correctly.
I dont know what conversion this would relate to.

Do you study electronics or something?

I didn't change any of the idle servo pins (1,3,4 or 6) because the pins are all in the same locations between each of the three ECU's (1-3, 6, and 7)

 

And no, I hate electronics, I'm studying a Mechanical Engineering degree at Curtin, I'm doing my electrical systems unit for the third time 

 

Did some reading on 4 wire sensors, looks like I'm going to need one! I can sort the wiring/plugs out, so all I need is the sensor itself, my only concern would be the output signal voltage, are all o2 sensors created equally? or should I be looking for one off an Evo 7/8/9 (P/N: mn153156)

Edited by 3VOLUTIONIST, 25 April 2015 - 05:03 AM.

[jack be nimble]

All the same o2 sensors. They all output the same voltage at stoichio.

Later on in that link I sent you is a video on how a isc should work at key on and off. Maybe pull yours and see what it does. You might not have to change your wiring, I dont know. You dont say you have any idle issues.

[jack be nimble]

So, during warm up and high load situations when the ECU is running in open loop, the AFR's are what they should be, it's only when the ECU is in closed loop that they get very rich (idling once warm/light load driving). That means the o2 sensor fault code makes sense at least.

this maybe a earth offset?
If you earth for the o2 sensor is not perfect, the voltage the ecu sees is offset making the ecu trim fuel. Sort of like a voltage divider.

Edited by jack of all, 25 April 2015 - 06:27 AM.