135 replies to this topic

[LumpyVR4]

So I have no oil pressure!

 

I had the spark plugs out and the fuel pump fuse out (I'm using the factory wire to drive a relay which is straight off the battery and has an in line fuse) and I filled the filter with oil before I mounted it.

 

I cranked her for maybe a minute and the oil idiot light did not go out. A proper gauge is on the list, but there was the pesky issue of the cost of having to re-body the car.

 

The remote filter mount didn't have instructions, but is marked IN and OUT. I took the OUT off the engine to the IN of the filter and the OUT of the filter back to the IN on the engine.

 

Edit: I just pulled the pressure sensor and it's dry as a nuns nasty.

 

Any suggestions? Oil lines in a different configuration?

 

Another edit: I'm working tomorrow, but on Sunday I guess I'll pull the lines off the remote filter housing and make sure at least one of them spits oil when I crank it and go from there.

Edited by LumpyVR4, 25 March 2016 - 07:12 AM.

[LumpyVR4]

Had enough time to check the oil lines to the filter and they are both dry. The only thing I can think of, which sucks because of the work involved, is that the new gasket I fitted when I changed to the air cooled filter housing still had gasket over the galleries and I missed it. So tomorrow I get to pull the front of the engine apart to check.

[Miniman_alis]

Silly question, did you put enough oil in the engine?

[LumpyVR4]

So, the gasket wasn't the problem. I just tried cranking it without the filter housing on it and got no oil, and the sump is definitely full. Could it be air? As in I was thinking about putting the housing back, pulling the lines up above the engine and filling them with oil to get it to flow around the pump in case it needs it to form a seal so it can pull more oil.

[BYBY5L]

Pick up tube is all sweet yeah? What about taking oil filter off and pouring oil in the middle hole? Seen an old bloke doing it on a starion years ago and he got oil pressure in no time,
I've read of people cranking it till the batt dies and then re-charging and doing it again and eventually they get pressure, did ya pack the oil pump with grease when ya re-assembled?

[Starion VR4 Derek]

Man you don't have to sit there cranking it, when ever I rebuild a 4G63 ening I remove the timing belt & use a drill with a socket attached to drive the Right Hand ( looking at the engine) small pulley which is the oil pump.. with a  newly rebuilt engine I get oil pressure in 5-10sec... one I have set the oil pressure relief spring pressure I want ( no more than 70psi) I reinstall the belt & time the engine.

 

I know it's a pain with your engine in the car...but trust me in the long run it's easier to do the above.

[LumpyVR4]

Engine wasn't rebuilt, just had new manifold and turbo, and the jspec oil housing/cooler added while it was out.

 

With the lines to the filter un-routed the ends of them area few inches higher than the top of the engine. With the sensor out I pumped a little oil into the filter in hose until it came out the sensor hole. Then I put the sensor back in and pumped in about half a liter to prime the pump. I also pumped half a liter into the filter out line. With the end of the hose higher than the engine, I figure some of it would get to the bottom end. I had previously filled the filter which is nice and easy because I mounted it facing up.

 

After about 30 seconds of cranking (I actually stopped and gave it one last go) I got pressure

Edited by LumpyVR4, 27 March 2016 - 07:52 AM.

[Starion VR4 Derek]

Ok.. now fire it up & see how much pressure you have... glad it was a easier fix....

[LumpyVR4]

would you believe while putting the alternator back on I accidentally broke off the drain plug on the radiator, and it's leaking

[brisvr4]

So.... How many mirrors did you break whilst walking under a ladder watching a herd of black cats crossing your path?

[evo-gsr]

13 ? ^

[LumpyVR4]

Six hundred and sixty six

[LumpyVR4]

Radiators out, but the easy out just screwed right through the bung so I've glued it in and I'll see how it goes this time tomorrow.

[CLuTZ]

You going to pressure test it first?

[Starion VR4 Derek]

So.... How many mirrors did you break whilst walking under a ladder watching a herd of black cats crossing your path?

 

 

Classic Tim

[LumpyVR4]

IT WORKS!!

 

Once I got fuel pressure she started off slow, then I tickled her up to 1500 and the ISC figured out what was going on.

 

Ended up having to take the radiator to a shop to fix the bung so I had it tested.

 

It looks like I'll need a new fan because my old one has decided to retire after being out of the car so long. (I assume. I need to check it is getting 12v) During the engines run temp got to 3/4 and no fan.

[Starion VR4 Derek]

Happy days dude

[LumpyVR4]

Second teething problem. The o rings (that look like D rings on inspection) on the PS pump are leaking. I hope the weird noise that started just before I found the leak wasn't the death rattle of the alternator.

[LumpyVR4]

PS pump leak fixed.

 

Sprayed a heap of isopropyl alcohol through the alternator to clean out the fluid that dripped into it. Seems fine, no weird noises.

 

Fittings on remote filter housing were seeping. Pulled apart cleaned. Liquid gasketed.

 

Radiator has small leak under full pressure from the top tank near the pipe where the crimp isn't great. So I have a 50mm full aluminum one on the way.

[LumpyVR4]

New issue I would not mind help with. Main head lights work fine, but when I go to high I get no high and lose the passenger main.

 

Any thoughts?

 

EDIT - Panicked prematurely. The ring section of one of the bulbs has separated from the filament section, so no earth. and we all know the wacky high jinks that can happen with a bad earth. I'm hoping with a new bulb it'll all come good.

Edited by LumpyVR4, 13 April 2016 - 07:37 AM.