Jump to content

Welcome to 4GTuner
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Photo

Crimping vs soldering

- - - - -

  • Please log in to reply
27 replies to this topic

#1
Dave_GSR1.8

Dave_GSR1.8

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 367 posts
  • LocationMelbourne

So which is better ?

 

Specificallly for wiring in an Innovate LC2 WB.

 

There seem to be conflicting viewpoints amongst people who seem to know what they are doing, what do people here think?

 

I have been putting this off till I find enough nerve to piggy back into the ECU loom and also finish off a few other mini projects, whch are almost done, so the time is coming where I will have to tackle this, hence my query.

 

Cheers



#2
White Knight

White Knight

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 930 posts
  • LocationGympie
Hair ties!!!!
My vote is for soldering, so long as Benny does it and not me.....

#3
DOUGMO

DOUGMO

    yoni lover

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 8,885 posts
  • LocationMelbourne

crimping is better if done with the right crimps etc

 

no decent motorsport loom has a drop of solder


GENUINE CE9A evo2 gsr track car
all fabrication BJP AUTOMOTIVE
winton 1:27.4 /// sandown 1:21.5 /// phillip island 1:49.2 /// haunted hills 59.1
/// eastern creek 1:35.4 /// winton short 1:01.4


#4
jack be nimble

jack be nimble

    master of none

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 8,301 posts
  • Locationperth sor. 20 mins from brians place
Nasa solder connections.
there is a tech sheet floating around that show accepted nasa solder connections.
The problem can be that the solder flows up under the insulation causing a hard section. Then the loom flexes on the end of the solder and fatigues.

In saying that, we use crimped ferrules on wire rope slings, and i have seen them cut open and the crimp has fully integrated into the wire. The crimp is stronger than the wire.
Personally, i crimp with a touch of solder at the tip of the wire if i can. I often reuse oem crimps and i solder them as i dont trust a reused crimp. The cheap ass blue, red, yellow crimps i solder on the wire tips as well.
4g93t jumbuck conversion. PRANGED 18/3/12, CHECK MY MEMBER RIDES Page 11. no serious human injuries.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.

#5
bazeng

bazeng

    Gday maaaate

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 9,899 posts
  • LocationMelbourne
Crimps. Quicker and keeps the loom flexible.

But needs to be the non slicing type. Not those Narva ones.

Solders create a solid in flexible section. They have potential to break over time.

In saying this. Solder will probably be completely fine to tap into an existing wire. If done right. Just support the wire after the join to remove stress.

#6
Benzo4gT

Benzo4gT

    Operator

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,318 posts
  • LocationThe home of unemployed bogans - Hervey bay,

A touch of tinning on both wires and then placing them together to create a soldered section about 5-6mm total length with some tight heat shrink is my favourite method.

 

You need to tin the wired with them pointing down so the solder doesn't run up the insulation.

 

I always wrap my wire bundles together and put them in the plastic split conduit and place them along a route that's out of the way of anything that could burn, crush, pull, rub or shear them off.

 

I do it even if there are only a few wires so it looks neat.

 

Ultimately up to you though


Bit of a tool, and owner of "The Turdis" - Hervey Bay

 

 

 

 


#7
MDK87

MDK87

    Hyundai's can't fly!!

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,364 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

In my experience, it is people that can't grasp the concept of wetting that shoot it down.
As Baz said, if supported correctly solder techniques are fine.

Many mil-spec and comms connectors use solder cup terminations.

Mind you it is not a mission critical system either.
Don't sweat too much over it mate, either or will be fine if done properly.



#8
evo-gsr

evo-gsr

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 10,379 posts
  • LocationBuddhist Temple NSW
I think you are way over thinking this one Dave...as above...either will be fine if done correctly
Its a street car..not a Time Attack car!!
[qoute name="BMGTZ" post="331212" timestamp="1467451744"]I don't know anything ...
Trust in the master of taxis.... He will set you straight[/quote]

#9
leadfoot

leadfoot

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • 3,429 posts
  • LocationGold Coast
My fav solder is tin both wires set them side by side and heat the tin and join creates a nice strong seamless join usually no fatter than original wire plus sheath. Also easily reversable

I also absokutly love liquid electrical tape 100% water proof never unravels and wont fail under heat best stuff ever

yes it's me KHUBNER


#10
Ian91

Ian91

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,651 posts
  • LocationPomona, Sunshine Coast, QLD

My fav solder is tin both wires set them side by side and heat the tin and join creates a nice strong seamless join usually no fatter than original wire plus sheath. Also easily reversable

I also absokutly love liquid electrical tape 100% water proof never unravels and wont fail under heat best stuff ever


Never heard of liquid electrical tape, what is that?

#11
leadfoot

leadfoot

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • 3,429 posts
  • LocationGold Coast
You can get it at jaycar google starbrite liquid electrical tape

yes it's me KHUBNER


#12
EV0300

EV0300

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,502 posts
  • LocationVictoria, Geelong
I prefer crimping and then heatshrinking mainly cos when i solder it looks like shit this looks neater in my eyes

#13
Cranked

Cranked

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,237 posts
  • LocationWollongong
Wow a deep topic. I'd say for permanent install solder. And if ur good enough at it, it won't run up the insulation. I worked 2 years part time as auto elec and A/c and never had an issue with solder. In saying that, I now work with millions of dollars worth of machinery and solder is very rarely seen, but that's mainly for fault isolation and finding. I roll the 2 wires over each other like a surf barrel, solder and heat shrink. Even better get the glue filled heat shrink. Waterproof that shit.
GSR Lancer- JE-73-VO, 11.701@125mph, 1.79 60" and getting faster. No:3 conrod now orbiting the moon.

#14
RocksolidGVR4

RocksolidGVR4

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 167 posts
  • LocationPerth
If permanent always solder and heat swrink but if temp then i use plugs/crimps.

#15
Dave_GSR1.8

Dave_GSR1.8

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 367 posts
  • LocationMelbourne

Excellent stuff!

 

Thanks everyone for your replies, as always this place always comes up trumps.

 

Cheers



#16
leadfoot

leadfoot

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • 3,429 posts
  • LocationGold Coast

well the haltech install manual says if useing crimps always use correct crimping tool and wherever possible solder all connections. take from that what you will


yes it's me KHUBNER


#17
DOUGMO

DOUGMO

    yoni lover

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 8,885 posts
  • LocationMelbourne

well the haltech install manual says if useing crimps always use correct crimping tool and wherever possible solder all connections. take from that what you will

 

as much as haltech are the authority on wiring thats to cover their arse against people who cant use/or dont have the right crimper and the skills.

 

no top level race car has solder, and will have service loops, what ever is needed for the job.


GENUINE CE9A evo2 gsr track car
all fabrication BJP AUTOMOTIVE
winton 1:27.4 /// sandown 1:21.5 /// phillip island 1:49.2 /// haunted hills 59.1
/// eastern creek 1:35.4 /// winton short 1:01.4


#18
leadfoot

leadfoot

    Moderator

  • Moderators
  • 3,429 posts
  • LocationGold Coast

oh i agree dugmo when it come to a race car though you would think "most" would be using haltech full standalone loom at which point the only joins would be th +5v and +12v and earths. with every other wore being correctly crimp terminated into their respective terminal connectors on each end.

in the end both ways are acceptable dependent on use


yes it's me KHUBNER


#19
ratbag

ratbag

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 69 posts
  • Locationlaidley

Sorry to hijack, but what is "tinning"?



#20
jack be nimble

jack be nimble

    master of none

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 8,301 posts
  • Locationperth sor. 20 mins from brians place
Putting solder on one wire, then the other. Then putting solder on both wires together.
Basically covering the bits in solder first
4g93t jumbuck conversion. PRANGED 18/3/12, CHECK MY MEMBER RIDES Page 11. no serious human injuries.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.


2 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users