3 replies to this topic

[Mr Gears]

Over the years I have seen some dodgy cars and lots of confusion related to Vehicle ID.

Most of the problems stem from the Aus system being different to Japan.

If there is a specific topic here related to Vehicle ID, would someone direct me to it please.

In the meanwhile I will try to provide some information right here.

 

Firstly is is important do differentiate between the VIN No. and the Chassis No.

 

The VIN No. is located on the aluminium plate that is fixed to the firewall with rivets (Compliance Plate). The same No. is stamped on top of the passenger side strut tower. (This no. was created by Mitsubishi Australia for the Dept. of Transport or vice versa?)

 

The Chassis No. is stamped on the firewall above the master cyl. (This No. was stamped at the factory in Japan)

 

For Australian delivered vehicles the VIN No. and The Chassis No. will not match.

 

Imported vehicles the Vin No. and Chassis No. do match.

 

If you are buying a used car it is important to realise that the ID plates can be swapped BUT the Chassis No. should match the vehicle description.

 

This is not a complete list, just the Sedans relevant to our market.

 

Chassis - VIN - Model

CB2A - CC1 - CC Lancer 4G15 Sed.

CB5A - CC5 - CC Lancer 4G93 Sed.

CD5A - CC7 - CC Lancer GSR 1.8T AWD 4 Dr Sed.

CD9A - CD9A - Lancer EVO1

CE9A - CE9A - Lancer EVO2/3

 

PS. For those of you that think that you can attach Aus build and compliance plates to a race rally import EVO and the Authorities don't know what the Chassis No. should be.... guess again.

http://www.rms.nsw.g...ta/pdf/9189.pdf

 

Conclusion, If you are a looking to buy a GSR or EVO type of thing here in Australia, then you need to be able to decide if what you are presented with is worth buying. There are 6 types of cars.

1. Genuine EVO. This is only available as a personal import (yellow plate). May not be registrable in all states and territories. This is the most valuable.

2. Genuine EVO - Reshell, Victoria had a scheme where you could rebody a car that you own with REP type chasis No. As above, not registrable in all states.

3. Genuine EVO - With Number Job. Is an EVO, but registered as a GSR. Chassis No. will not match VIN or Chassis No has been cut out and welded in.

4. Genuine EVO - With Number Job. Is an EVO, but registered as a CC FWD. This is the worst type as it needs to be engineered. You wont get an engineers report cause the main mods are the Vehicle ID numbers.

5. Replica EVO - GSR converted to EVO spec. This is the best type. No engineers report needed for the 2.0L engine conversion.

6. Replica EVO - CC FWD converted to EVO spec. Some of these are very good (especially the ones that I built). If it is engineered there should be no problems. Would not be worth as much as a converted GSR.

Edited by Mr Gears, 02 November 2015 - 06:35 AM.

[evo-gsr]

Good info Brett!

[EVL20T]

Chassis numbers are different between Aust and Jap c ars also
 
Aust models will start with "FSN" then the model "CD5A" etc, followed by 7 numbers
Jap models will start with the model number "CD5A" etc, followed by 7 (no FSN)
 
All Aust VIN# will start with "JMF"
 
JMF = MMC CBU Prod. (World Manufacturer Identifier)
CC = Model Code (Vehicle ID)
1 = Man 1.5 Carby, 2 = Auto 1.5 Carby, 5 = Man 1.8 EFI, 6 = Auto 1.8 EFI, 7 = Man EFI 1.8 DOHC TURBO (Trans ID)
M = Carby, H = EFI, S = EFI TURBO (Engine ID)
2 = 2DR, 4 = 4DR (Body ID)
# = ? (i've only seen a "1" in this spot, so it could be in relation to the above number or below letter)
N = 1992, P = 1993, R = 1994, S = 1995 (Built Year)
J = Japan MMC Prod, A = Adelaide (Assembly Plant Code)
###### = (6 Digit Chassis Number)

[leadfoot]

also note magna don't start with JMF they have mitsubishi australia's WMI on them.

mitsubishi japan and mitsubishi australia have their OWN WMI. as they were considered two seperate entities