11 replies to this topic

[rhodieee]

Hey RVR lovers! In need of new front brakes as mine are about to go out. Wanted to know if anyone has had experience with these brakes http://m.ebay.com.au...0877?nav=SEARCH and what other options can I go with pads and disk? Preferably cheap and good as of money is pretty tight at the moment. Thanks guys! Much help would be appreciated! And are front brakes easy to replace and do it yourself? Cheers!!

[White Knight]

Brake replacement is a pieces of piss bro, but if you don't know how to bleed your system then don't attempt without an experienced person with you or will regret it.
I can't help you part numbers sorry, but if you get them out just steal the missus car and take the pad to repco, that's all I did.
If you driving north in the gympie area I would be happy to do it for you mate.

[RVR-ED]

DB1223 fit the front and DB1239 do the rear

[Benzo4gT]

I'll do a step through for you with pics tomorrow if that would be of any help to you

[BYBY5L]

Damn, I'll be pulling the brakes off my rvr in a few days, discs an pads are brand new so would have flicked them off cheap too

[Benzo4gT]

Lol, same thing here man, I'm putting 324mm and 4 pots on over Christmas.

 

I'll do the "how to" tomorrow morning, I had to work later today and I'm three sheets to the wind already so if I did it now the photos would be out of focus and arse about face, so it's best I wait.

[Benzo4gT]

So here is the "how to"

 

Changing pads and rotors is fairly simple to do, all you need is a 17mm spanner, 12mm spanner, 17mm socket, torque wrench, 2 zip ties and something to cut the zip ties.

You'll need to remove the wheel, but make sure you use a stand and do not rely on a hydraulic jack to hold the car up EVER!

Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right for the right hand side, and all the way left for the left hand side. This is so you can undo the 12mm nut that holds the hose stay.

If you are only wanting to change the pads then take a 17mm spanner and undo this sliding bolt, it holds the floating part of the brake caliper which swings away so the pads can be removed, you will need to use a C-clamp to compress the pistons in to ensure the pads fit back on to the rotor. You may have to use something to remove some of the brake fluid as compressing the piston/s will push fluid back up into the reservoir, I have a syringe that I use, they are available from any chemist and are usually free just let them know what you're using it for so you don't come across as a druggo.

If you need to change both pads and caliper, first connect the zip ties together so they make one long one, then remove these two 17mm bolts and run the zip ties through one of the bolt holes and let it hang out of the way. It's not good to let the caliper hang from the pipes as stressing a 20 year old OEM part is never a good idea. I hang it from the spring with the zip ties.

The disc rotor will just slide off after the caliper is out of the way.

 

Then just reverse the above steps and torque the sliding bolts to 45-50 Nm (32-36 ft-lb) and the caliper mounting bolts to 100-110 Nm (74-81 ft-lb), wheel nuts are 90 Nm (66 ft-lb) according to Evo 3 spec, but I torque mine to 100 Nm. If you don't have a torque wrench just tighten them up good and tight.

 

Feel free to ask about anything you're unsure of, we're here to help.

 

Happy spannering

Edited by Benzo4gT, 24 December 2015 - 11:41 AM.

[Benzo4gT]

Also, if you need to replace any hoses and the hydraulic system becomes open, you'll need to bleed the entire system. To do this you bleed the longest line first and work down to the shorter ones, so it should be  left rear, right rear, front left, then front right.

 

 

EDITED: I must have dozed off halfway through the first time and only had half a post.

Edited by Benzo4gT, 25 December 2015 - 11:36 AM.

[White Knight]

I believe the OP owes you a "thanks" on this Benny. Or at least recognition of time and effort....

[evo-gsr]

Lol ^ get used to that....its called the "spoon effect"

[rhodieee]

Thanks benzo! Sorry been off this forum off a while but your help is greatly appreciated! Keep up the good work

[jack be nimble]

Also, if you need to replace any hoses and the hydraulic system becomes open, you'll need to bleed the entire system. To do this you bleed the longest line first and work down to the shorter ones, so it should be left rear, right rear, front left, then front right.


EDITED: I must have dozed off halfway through the first time and only had half a post.

Maybe it will help someone...
before i break a line a press the brake pedal down a bit. This blocks a port in the master and stops all the fluid running out (works on the clutch too). That way you only need to bleed the line you have broken. But generally you may as well change out the fluid anyway because its probably due.
for a longer time, i disco the brake light switch or pull fuse so battery doesnt go flat.
Generally a hammer handle jammed under accel and clutch pedal with brake pedal below that works well, and allows you in and out of cabin to change radio stations.