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DIY Polyurethane Engine Mounts

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36 replies to this topic

#1
jett

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Hey Guys - I thought i'd post up a little how to on replacing those busted old rubber engine mounts with polyurethane without paying through the nose for ralliart inserts or buying ebay jobs that don't fit...

Firstly you will need to measure the diameter and width of all four of your engine mounts so you can work out how much polyurethane rod you will need. I calculated ~170mm long x 80mm diameter for four CC sedan engine mounts. Once you know how much you need go an buy yourself some polyurethane rod - a shore rating of 80-100 is best. Lower rating (softer) for the average street driven car and higher (harder) for a hardcore track car...

Here is 200mm of PU rod with a shore rating of 94 that cost me $43

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Next remove the engine mounts from the car - you will probably need to do them one at a time unless you have an engine crane or similar.

Using a die grinder or hacksaw cut through the inner metal tube to which the rubber is bonded. Once it is cut through the insert should push out easily by hand.

With a stanley knife remove all the rubber from the crush tube (where the bolt goes through) and set aside as you have to put this back in.

Depending on the size of the PU rod compared to the engine mount (and of course how huge you are) you may have to cut down the PU rod to fit it into the now hollow mount. A bench grinder makes short work of this - otherwise you will have to cut the sides off witha hack saw and fish up with coarse sandpaper. Don't make it too small as you want it to fit very tightly. With a hammer or vice insert the PU rod into the mount...

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Now cut the rod off flush with the side of the mount with a coarse hacksaw.

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Next mark the centre of the mount and drill a hole for the crush tube - 1mm smaller than the tube is a good size. Insert the tube with a hammer or vice.

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Replace the mount back into the car and continue with the remaining mounts.

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You may find that there is increased road/engine noise inside the cabin as well as vibrations - especially if you use a harder PU. But the increase in handling and throttle response is incredible. And for $43 and a couple of hours work its a cheap and easy upgrade.

Cheers Jez.
-Lancer VR4-


CC Lancer Sedan

4G63T - 1st Gen

FMIC

Adaptronic 420b ECU with custom install and tune

2.5" Turbo Back Mandrel Exhaust

Lightened Flywheel


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#2
bazeng

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great post up!

did u end up doing the others?

#3
jett

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Yeah i did all four :wink: You can see a couple of the pics are actually different mounts.
-Lancer VR4-


CC Lancer Sedan

4G63T - 1st Gen

FMIC

Adaptronic 420b ECU with custom install and tune

2.5" Turbo Back Mandrel Exhaust

Lightened Flywheel


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#4
GSRSOL

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yeah mate!

thats a great DIY job......

And a good how-to write up.

I may have to do one of these for my upper Passenger side engine mount. The PU comes in pretty much any colour doesnt it?

do you think having one PU mount and the rest as ralliart mounts would be a problem?
Dan | Melbourne | 1994 CD5A / CE9A / E39A bastard child
special thanks to - TRIKFAB | Tropic Motors | Springy Motors


#5
JSTYLE

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do you think having one PU mount and the rest as ralliart mounts would be a problem?


Umm what do u think ralliart use for there engine mounts? Poly? i think so.. and what Jez used is poly.. :lol: :lol:

Good write up Jez.. i havent done these to my fronts but i had recently installed some rear dif support ones and boy they do feel tighter!

Jon
Name: Jon
Current Rides:
My06 Evolution IX 12.11 @ 113mph 252kw (street weight)
1997 Proton Satria GLi (daily)
Previous Rides
1993 Mitsubishi Lancer GSR 4G93T 200kw @ hubs 12.1 @ 115.5mph
1992 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 1 (CD9A) 225kw, 20g, stock ecu, hks 264s 12.050 @ 116.5mph OHH YERRR

#6
jett

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The colour of the PU is usually determined by the shore rating or hardness... So red is harder than yellow which is harder than blue etc. Depends on where you buy it and who manufactures it though really.

You could always paint it - i dunno how long it would last though cause of the flex...
-Lancer VR4-


CC Lancer Sedan

4G63T - 1st Gen

FMIC

Adaptronic 420b ECU with custom install and tune

2.5" Turbo Back Mandrel Exhaust

Lightened Flywheel


Posted Image

#7
87vr4

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speaking of buying, where can we buy this PU rod from? was it just 80mm standard? or did u have to order ?
WHAT KINDA FU@KING MAGNA IS THAT!!!???

#8
jett

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I bought mine from shop called Norseal here in Townsville - they sell every kind of belt known to man as well as rubber, nylon, plastic, PU products. They had a box of that red PU rod of diameters from 10mm to 150mm.

Thier website is here - http://www.norseal.com.au/

And if you still have no luck - i'm willing to buy and post for anyone who wants it.
-Lancer VR4-


CC Lancer Sedan

4G63T - 1st Gen

FMIC

Adaptronic 420b ECU with custom install and tune

2.5" Turbo Back Mandrel Exhaust

Lightened Flywheel


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#9
jett

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An addition - Thanks to Dane (3zercrowd) for letting me use his garage and engine crane... Cheers man
-Lancer VR4-


CC Lancer Sedan

4G63T - 1st Gen

FMIC

Adaptronic 420b ECU with custom install and tune

2.5" Turbo Back Mandrel Exhaust

Lightened Flywheel


Posted Image

#10
89vr4

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Great D.I.Y post..Well done!! Mine will be getting done next week!
89 RS powered VR-4


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#11
JSTYLE

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theres a place in melbourne you can get this stuff from if you guys wanna pm me ill send you the address or your keen we can buy in bulk and save.

Jon
Name: Jon
Current Rides:
My06 Evolution IX 12.11 @ 113mph 252kw (street weight)
1997 Proton Satria GLi (daily)
Previous Rides
1993 Mitsubishi Lancer GSR 4G93T 200kw @ hubs 12.1 @ 115.5mph
1992 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 1 (CD9A) 225kw, 20g, stock ecu, hks 264s 12.050 @ 116.5mph OHH YERRR

#12
bazeng

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i believe bearing places also supply this stuff

i've seen it, thought about it, but always believed that it was too brittle...
it'll be good to know for future use... i was afraid that it would end up breaking apart after a bit of time...

keep us up to date!

#13
Mr Gears

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Umm what do u think ralliart use for there engine mounts? Poly? i think so.. and what Jez used is poly..


No, I don't think so...see for yourself
Engine Mounts

i've seen it, thought about it, but always believed that it was too brittle...
it'll be good to know for future use... i was afraid that it would end up breaking apart after a bit of time...


I should have taken some pics of my crumbled 2 year old red polyurethane rear control arm bushes. (they were on an old Cortina and I did punish it hard.)

Anyway, make up your own minds guys... My money would go to Ralliart.
Did you know the EVOI-III top engine and gearbox mounts have an eccentric hole?... Good luck getting that right in the backyard.
We do also sell new standard replacement inserts for most applications at very good prices.

#14
jett

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Lucky my top mount isn't a evo 1-3 mount then hey...

I say spend time not money - even if i have to replace them all again in 5 years - i'm still ahead by over $200...

Which i very much doubt will happen as this is the same material that is used in suspension bushes. Simple routine maintenance is all that it takes - apply moly grease or lanolin every 6 months and they will last longer than the rest of the car.

Chris what is the shore rating of the ralliart mounts?

BTW how do you get to that engine mounts page on your website - i looked for ages the other day and couldn't find it?

EDIT: I see it now but i swear it wasn't there the other day :? All i saw was that helper guide thing...
-Lancer VR4-


CC Lancer Sedan

4G63T - 1st Gen

FMIC

Adaptronic 420b ECU with custom install and tune

2.5" Turbo Back Mandrel Exhaust

Lightened Flywheel


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#15
Mr Gears

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Chris what is the shore rating of the ralliart mounts?


Sorry mate, My name is Brett. I work with Chris. Chris goes by the username of agvr4 or Meek Automotive. Anyway the Ralliart inserts are a K2 hardness.

I say spend time not money - even if i have to replace them all again in 5 years - i'm still ahead by over $200...


In the big city, time is money. Anyway good effort, good write up.
Let me know when you do a write for some homemade tyres... or even better, some Nikes (I hate buying shoes- damn ripp off).LOL

#16
jett

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My bad - sorry brett...

LOL yeah home made tyres that would be funny...

I am a uni student with not much money and a fair bit of time so i'm into bang for buck mods - but everything I do - I do properly and of good quality.
Exemplified by my FWD CC Lancer Sedan with VR4 conversion which runs high 13 second quarter miles (and holds its own around a track too) for $10k spent (including buying the car).

I just thought i'd share - if you'd rather spend your money on a proven product (but of course more expensive) thats up to you.
-Lancer VR4-


CC Lancer Sedan

4G63T - 1st Gen

FMIC

Adaptronic 420b ECU with custom install and tune

2.5" Turbo Back Mandrel Exhaust

Lightened Flywheel


Posted Image

#17
olly

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when someone makes a DIY thread it always ends up turning into an argument.. :roll:
not quite a gsr, not quite an evo

#18
jett

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I'm not arguing - i just put the info up and my reason for doing it. If it helps some ppl thats great - if you choose not to use it thats fine too.

I think that more DIY posts would be an advantage for these forums..
-Lancer VR4-


CC Lancer Sedan

4G63T - 1st Gen

FMIC

Adaptronic 420b ECU with custom install and tune

2.5" Turbo Back Mandrel Exhaust

Lightened Flywheel


Posted Image

#19
olly

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i'm not blamin you jett.. i think its a great bang for buck mod..
not quite a gsr, not quite an evo

#20
GSRSOL

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I think that more DIY posts would be an advantage for these forums..


I agree.

I think if you (generally speaking) want to post up a DIY topic such as this one, you have to expect some people to come forward to disagree, or offer ways/options that may be better, cheaper, more reliable etc etc etc. or even to improve your original methods.

But good work, very informative!
Dan | Melbourne | 1994 CD5A / CE9A / E39A bastard child
special thanks to - TRIKFAB | Tropic Motors | Springy Motors



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