180 replies to this topic

[jack be nimble]

Good on you for getting a few jobs done.

[CAM280]

Haha good read, and yep just expect shit to go wrong it's all a learning curve. How's it going now?

[CAM280]

Sorry I forgot to turn the page I got up to expect shit to go wrong then fell asleep. That's an epic journey man and a fucking wad load of cash!

I don't run into problem as much as creating them! I remember a few years ago when I got mine, didn't know squat but with time and many mistakes mine is still on stumps in the backyard. One of the first mistakes I made was leaving a ratchet in the crank and turning it over after I did my first timing belt change.... panic mode thought I bent a valve. But after taking the head off I realised that I didn't but hey while I've got the head might as well do a valve job and then hey why not pull the engine out and put new bearings in and after 3 safety certificates why not rebuild the tranny and now all it does is go in reverse 😂🎉😂

[Taz]

Started on the nimbus bar today. Bought an orbital sander to help cut the time down a little. Heat gunned a small push dent out and a lump on the top was put back in place. A lot easier than i thought to reshape it. Now just copiously sanding and sanding prepping for the fit. If i like it as it i probably wont bother grafting the RVR ends onto it, but i reckon itll bug me and ill do it. Either way, progress is underway. Keen to get the big heavy reo off and get it looking mint from the rear. 

[Taz]

Ordered a $15 flip key shell off ebay today that looks pretty damn close to what i want. fingers crossed its gonna do the trick. If not oh well 14 bucks is not a big loss. 

Made time to get the fogs in that Barry sent me, look good and surprisingly work. All they did was take the fog light itself out. Left loom, switch, brackets etc in. I think i know why they were taken out in the first place. Left side of the bumper is slightly askew, looks to be a low speed hit, nothing on the body has any sign of being hit but looking at the bar from behind when its off theres a small tear where its been pushed in, so i dare say they broke the left fog light, couldnt find a replacement so took both out to make it look even.

Took the rear bar off and test fitted the nimbus bar to see hurdles i might encounter. Bigger job than i thought to make it look how i want it, basically cutting 2 bars in jigsaw pieces and plastic welding them together, and patching up the hole the swing arm has left in the top. Too hard to explain even with photos but still going ahead with it. will just be a case of me getting a spare bar, and chopping both bars how i want them then taking it somewhere to get them welded together. Not just putting ends on though unfortunately will require more precision and planning to pull it off. Will look mint when done.

Mocked up the PWR intercooler as well, should be a piece of cake. 4 simple brackets and 2 silicone bends and she'll look factory almost.

Turbo just needs a few things done - ill probably forgo the dump and rear housing for now and weld her shut, buy a gate and install kit and throw it on. Dont know why i didnt realise but even if i face it down will require an adaptor as it has the evo 3 outlet which requires something to be bolted to it, not a clamp style face like the RVR turbo. 

Am i correct in assuming if i use an RVR manual turbo (16g) front housing itll fit the 20g core like the evo 3 16g housing? Will i need to get the turbo re-balanced as im pulling the front housing off of it? Or is it only if the core is dismantled that requires re-balancing?

Either way, Slow progress is still progress, my main goal is to do something every weekend, however small it may be to keep ball rolling. 

 

[Taz]

Also being under the car again ive found that the leak from the turbo return is worse now ive put the gasket in, really doesnt like it so i guess next weekend its coming back out, or if i get time tomorrow putting the 20g in will just goop it up, not much else can be done. 

Might get the battery relocated as the next item on the list, bought the box and everything a while ago now just need the main power line and install the damn thing. 

The box is also squeaky when i let the clutch out, disappearing when i put the pedal in. Could be a few things but im gonna get the box done soon hopefully with new clutch and flywheel so should take care of that hopefully. 

Looking at a mantic stage 4 clutch. I have no idea why but i prefer a heavier clutch and no slip instead of a conventional clutch. Still classified as a street performance/track clutch over a pure track stage 5 kit. And around about the time i would be able to afford it/box/flywheel combo it wont be daily driven anymore the LC will be the daily so i wont be stuck in traffic with it (not that i do atm anyway i have 2 sets of lights between work and home) And a lightened flywheel if Baz can hook us up. See how we go.

So many things still yet to do. Never ending list but thats how builds go. Also priced up a 6 boost manifold for when the big boy turbo goes on. Only $1100 which isnt that much considering i gotta get them to custom make the t4 twin scroll flange. 

[brisvr4]

Throw out bearing will be causing the squeak

[Taz]

was replaced 10 odd thousand ago with the manual conversion....good ol burson quality parts i guess...

[jack be nimble]

May be able to get a squeeze of moly spray onto the throw out sleeve and pivot ball, through the gearbox boot. That is if its a squeak when engine is off or on. If its a squeal only when engine is running, yep- gearbox out....

Also, panel shop next door has a hot staple thing. It pulls a wire into the plastic bumper to mend tears in the plastic. I think it would be good repair if it was backed up with a plastic offcut, and welded to the backup plastic too.

[Taz]

Yep in idle clutch out only. its annoying but its coming out soon anyway so meh. The way i have to cut the bar is a very long, multi directional cut its not a small straight cut on either side like i initially planned.

[evo-gsr]

May be able to get a squeeze of moly spray onto the throw out sleeve and pivot ball, through the gearbox boot. That is if its a squeak when engine is off or on. If its a squeal only when engine is running, yep- gearbox out....
Also, panel shop next door has a hot staple thing. It pulls a wire into the plastic bumper to mend tears in the plastic. I think it would be good repair if it was backed up with a plastic offcut, and welded to the backup plastic too.

I have one of those plastic.repair things you mention..its awesome!!
The staples get fucking hot..and burn like hell

[Taz]

So i had to go for a night drive last night and amongst the very quiet drive i happened to notice that the squeal is also when driving not just when idle, hoever not terribly fussed as im doing the box soon.

Figured out the flip key situation, will be successful it looks like, see the other flip key thread for more details.

[Taz]

Finished the FOB side of the flip key, results went better than expected. Pics up in flip key thread. 

[White Knight]

Doing well Taz. Well done so far bud. I don't know if you got your answer regarding the compressor housing onto the core. If its a TD05 core/CHRA the HSGR downward cover will fit, however its for 16g obviously and not a 20g wheel.
I have a spare rear bar here if you need one as well, just so you know buddy.

[Taz]

cheers mate.

Yea the housings are an evo 3 16g, with a 20g stuffed inside it as far as im aware, so i just need to get my hands on the RVR housing.

I also believe ill be coming into a spare rvr shell very soon so hopefully it has a passable rear bar to chop up.

[Starion VR4 Derek]

I also believe ill be coming into a spare rvr shell very soon so hopefully it has a passable rear bar to chop up.

 

 

Taz i know of a Black one in Brisbane, EVOiii Front Struts in it , no Running Gear or Interior.. Think you can get it for $200-300... pm me if you want  to know about it..

 

Cheers

Derek

[Taz]

Some better news today went to another place to get this key looked at that a co worker recommended (heel and sole in capalaba park) and they were more than happy to try and help more than just looking in books and telling me it cant work.

They were afraid if they modified an existing key blade to fit in it would be weaker and potentially cause me problems. They ended up getting a regular key, and cutting the blade and some of the head to suit and machining it to take the dowel pin etc. Very happy with the professionalism and friendliness of the place, and after expecting a ~80+ bill for a key, cut, 30min of labor etc the bill came to just $25. Walked out a very happy man. Now have a totally stand alone flip key for 40 bucks, can't argue with that. They were also very curious and asked questions about what i had done previously to the flip key so that they might recommend something like this to others in my situation instead of simply saying they can't help like mister minit. 10/10 would cut again. 

Also getting sick of the prices im being quoted to get small fab jobs done like piping and exhaust etc so in the next few weeks ill be buying a decent tig welder and doing it myself. fingers crossed im not as bad as ray charles at welding. pending how good i am ill be also looking to get into some scaled up volume and custom jobs and being i have an RVR itll be the guinea pig to produce runs of custom piping/exhausts etc for people that are interested. Touch wood. 

[White Knight]

An RVR with decent tig welded exhaust?! Perish the thought. Lol. You should go work for Bazeng. ..
Great to hear that you got a good result from the key mate. Hopefully everything starts falling together for you hey.

[Taz]

looks like the RVR might be going on somewhat of a temporary pause with crazy fast mods as iv'e gotten good motivation to get the lancer back on the road so i can daily it and get super stupid with the RVR. I have a lot of time over xmas break to get it basically up to speed minus exhaust and intake, which is a mere $1500 for the manifold and twin 45DCOE setup so i assume cash flow is gonna be strapped for the RVR. Eye of the storm people eye of the storm

[jack be nimble]

Consider a mig as much easier. Also stainless tig def needs to back gas.

You can mig stainless too. I'd get stainless gas only as you can use it on steel, but not the other way around