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Electrical gremlins
#61
Posted 25 February 2017 - 02:04 AM
Both tail lights are working now, the issue I'm left with now is the buzzing relay in the engine fuse box when you turn the lights on.
This is what I've worked out:
With the lights on the relay starts to buzz. If I remove the fuse labeled TAIL LAMP (LH) POSITION (G) the buzzing stops and the tail lamps stop working how ever the parkers continue to work. If I remove the fuse labelled TAIL LAMP (RH) POSITION (DR) the buzzing does not stop and the parkers stop working how ever the tail lamps continue to work.
So what I take from that is that the jdm lancer must have used only 1 wire to power both tail lights, where the adm lancer used 2 (L&R). That's why there's 2 taillamp fuses.
The adm lancer must just power the parkers off the taillamp relay because there's no seperate fuse for the parkers. Jdm must use one of the fuses for parkers and one for tail lamps, so the buzzing could be because there are 2 power feeds trying to activate the relay but really I need another relay for the parkers to be seperate.
#62
Posted 25 February 2017 - 02:32 AM
did you swap the engine loom over to evo 3 as well. The fuse box covers do not match up exactly. i think the 15A fuse was for foglights iirc. Whereas the lancer has two 10A fuses for the tail lights.
#63
Posted 25 February 2017 - 03:16 AM
I just traced the wires between the headlight stall plug and the plug behind the fuse box which goes through the firewall, and they are exactly the same between the 2 looms, colour, pin location etc.
I was googling buzzing relays and there are different reasons they can buzz. Either a bad earth/ 12v or trigger, under voltage or over voltage. That got me to thinking maybe the relay is over voltage because I don't have the dash lights or dimmer hooked up yet, they must be ran off the same system because there are no other wires.
Otherwise I might have to go in the engine bay fuse box and rewrite it there to power front and rear off one fuse and leave out the fuse which makes the noise.
#64
Posted 25 February 2017 - 10:32 AM
Need to set the base timing and sort out the BISS screw (won't idle at the moment). Then stick the skirts and bumper back on, tighten the belts, and she's pretty much done!
#65
Posted 05 March 2017 - 10:09 AM
That's good news.
I got mine back from the auto elec. The evo loom must have been slightly different in the headlight switch plug as he had to cut one of the wires out of that plug and ground it, this stopped the buzzing of the relay as it was cancelling out the usual feed to the relay.
He didn't sort out the dome light issue as the bill was building up due to them doing other work for me, so that's still a mystery but I will look into it when I can be f'd lol.
The climate control all seems to be working apart from the fact I don't have any of the a/c parts currently fitted in the engine bay. The only problem I can see so far is the air coming out seems hot like the heater is on, not sure if this is just because there is no a/c at the moment, but it seemed hotter than just fan air. I suspect it might be to do with the fact I don't have the sensor '?' hooked up above the black a/c box. Need to source the evo version of this.
Otherwise everything is fine, cleaned up all the gauge and boost control wiring and Flocked the dash while it was out. Took it for a spirited drive this arvo, needs the fuel dialed down on the chip, is quite rich lol. Or I need to fit and have tuned my evo 8 ecu.
#66
Posted 01 April 2017 - 05:24 AM
Mine at the moment will only blow hot air, granted the a/c isn't installed, but the air is cool until the car heats up then goes hot. Which indicates to me the climate control is allowing the coolant to circulate even when you have it on cold settings.
Now I have checked the servos for the various moving parts and found:
The one behind the glove box moves when switching between in/ outside air. So that's ok.
The one above/ to the left of the clutch pedal moves when selecting different zones ei. Face, feet window. So that's ok.
The third servo is behind the stereo and the rod for it goes to the bottom of the box behind the stereo. This servo does not move when any settings are changed, I assume this one controls the heater tap that lets the coolant circ. I tried to adjust the temp to the highest, think it was 32 degrees. That didn't move this servo or any of the others.
I'm guessing this servo is dead and I will check if there is power being supplied to it.
My question is: Can someone please go check which settings on their climate control cause this bottom servo to adjust? So I can make sure the head unit is doing what it's meant to.
You can see the bottom of the a/c box without removing anything, if you look with a torch to the left of the clutch you can press buttons on the h/u and see the rod move.
Thanks all
#67
Posted 01 April 2017 - 08:07 AM
Small add on/ question.
Mine at the moment will only blow hot air, granted the a/c isn't installed, but the air is cool until the car heats up then goes hot. Which indicates to me the climate control is allowing the coolant to circulate even when you have it on cold settings.
Now I have checked the servos for the various moving parts and found:
The one behind the glove box moves when switching between in/ outside air. So that's ok.
The one above/ to the left of the clutch pedal moves when selecting different zones ei. Face, feet window. So that's ok.
The third servo is behind the stereo and the rod for it goes to the bottom of the box behind the stereo. This servo does not move when any settings are changed, I assume this one controls the heater tap that lets the coolant circ. I tried to adjust the temp to the highest, think it was 32 degrees. That didn't move this servo or any of the others.
I'm guessing this servo is dead and I will check if there is power being supplied to it.
My question is: Can someone please go check which settings on their climate control cause this bottom servo to adjust? So I can make sure the head unit is doing what it's meant to.
You can see the bottom of the a/c box without removing anything, if you look with a torch to the left of the clutch you can press buttons on the h/u and see the rod move.
Thanks all
this one omves based on the temp it sees inside the vehicle it will make a mix of col/ hot air at all time to result in a somewhat certain temp from the vents . the coolant through the heater core never gets shut off at all what stop hot air being blown is just simply another flap to either allow air through or bypass.
yes it's me KHUBNER
#68
Posted 01 April 2017 - 08:37 AM
this one omves based on the temp it sees inside the vehicle it will make a mix of col/ hot air at all time to result in a somewhat certain temp from the vents . the coolant through the heater core never gets shut off at all what stop hot air being blown is just simply another flap to either allow air through or bypass.
Ok cool, so it's probably because I am missing the thermistor out of the evaporator core then, but you'd the temp sensor in the bendy tube would be the one which regulates that. Maybe the servo is broken.
Thanks
#69
Posted 02 April 2017 - 01:38 AM
Either way I have one spare I can sell ya if ya do end up needing it
And, I've been flat out the last 2-3 weeks which is why I didn't say anything but I may have the illuminating ring and a sensor that you were looking for somewhere too
#70
Posted 02 April 2017 - 04:25 AM
Again... if you were melb based I could of lent ya the head unit...
Either way I have one spare I can sell ya if ya do end up needing it
And, I've been flat out the last 2-3 weeks which is why I didn't say anything but I may have the illuminating ring and a sensor that you were looking for somewhere too
I have a spare h/u which I will swap over and see if it makes a difference. Good idea, also if you could have a look for those parts when you have time that would be sweet, no rush, the a/c is the least of my worries at the moment lol.
Cheers
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