Jump to content

Welcome to 4GTuner
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Photo

Taz's E33A VX-S daily

- - - - -

  • Please log in to reply
38 replies to this topic

#21
EvoOne

EvoOne

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 559 posts
  • LocationSydney

Got the new rear rotors during the week and theyll be going out monday to be redrilled to 5x114.3 so i can finish off the rear end. Easiest way as no other rotor is a bolt on solution.
Doing the front ive found that the RVR hub and the galant hub are strikingly similar with the only real difference being the steering arm, RVR rack end goes in from the top, galant from the bottom. Ive found im just going to press in the RVR hub insert, change the galant outer CV to an RVR one to match it (galant is a smaller shaft) and bolt the RVR twin spot caliper and rotor on. Even dust shields are the same size. Easy enough fix for the front. 

Ordered a few more of the niggly things to get the motor back together(ish) but still need to pull it out to clean the back, inspect/clean the steering rack and kframe properly etc etc. Got a new rear seat setup as mine was that sun damaged i accidently split the seams leaning on it. 

The most important update is ive finally come across the rust ive been expecting all this time. Not in the spare wheel well, theres 0 sign in there even though the boot was under water for an undetermined period of time, but around the seal that seals the bootlid to the body. Ive taken almost all of it out and its really not that bad but the lip the seal sits on is missing in some places now as i couldnt save it. What will be the best way to repair this? Thin metal sheet and bend to countour and weld it in? Theres a few really small holes as well which is what the water got through to the boot but theyre on a flat surface and will be easytto fill in, its the lip im worried wont be a two second fix. Will post pics when i get a chance

This is pretty common on the cc's too. My wife's coupe had most of the top "ledge"(ie close to the windscreen) rusted away when you pulled the seal off. It mean a lot of water would come in when it rained. Ultimately what killed the car. Too much rust.



#22
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane
Here's the pics of the boot

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20180706_175046.jpg
  • 20180706_175100.jpg


#23
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

Ive restrained myself for now but i have left in my cart a few things from megazip. both front splash shield kits, with clips etc and front and rear complete screen mouldings with all clips etc. 600USD delivered which isnt too bad for new genuine shipped to me. ill probably get them piece by piece over the years, mine arent THAT bad but worth the money to replace..



#24
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

Last two nights ive pulled the trigger and put some hours in and gotten the motor and box out. 

Had a good inspection under the car and its mostly good news. Seems to be rust free on the underbelly and only really affected on the RHF quarter. As you can see by the pictures only the RHS of the kframe paint has come away, so that will completely come out and ill have to pull the trigger and do all the bushes and strip and repaint it etc etc. The rust to the body is minimal imo for how long it was sitting. Hasnt chewed through anything that is vital/structural. Seam is good. Ive taken 99% of the rust out, wire brushed it down and put converter/sealant on it, however when its getting paint and panel il get something welded in or something to tidy it up and make it look proper again. The white lines on the last 2 photos are the edge of the guard, to give you an idea of how much its chewed out of the guard as well so i can replace that no problem. So add another 500 to the budget to do all bushes down there, misc paint and supplies etc. Rust is non existant in the engine bay thankfully apart from the small amount of light surface rust by the battery tray ill sand down and repaint. will come up nice with a degrease and gurney i think. Been talking with megazip and theres a few other small things im going to add to the list of stuff to get. Small things like boot plastics, console catch etc etc. 

Going to clean up the motor and box over the rest of the week. Should have the front 5 stud stuff early next week. Once ive done the kframe, given the engine bay a tidy and cleaned the box.back of engine itll go back in, get the 5 stud front end in and finish off the rear end. Going to do the misc stuff while stuff is out to like CV shaft seals on the box, hub seals etc etc  going to be a new car by the end of it. 

Rear end wise waiting on rotors, then need to drop the tank and replace the pump/clean the tank probably or replace (if i can find one..) and deal with the boot seal which come to think of it now itll have to go to body shop before roady so that might shuffle a few things/set it back from rego a few weeks. 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 36898677_10212658183824673_2983848432050896896_n.jpg
  • 36926065_10212658182104630_5453365781557411840_n.jpg
  • 36915678_10212658184384687_4666052414539825152_n.jpg
  • 36931385_10212658183544666_3187376942114406400_n.jpg
  • 36984470_10212658183144656_4330233418496344064_n.jpg
  • 37017449_10212658182784647_7038279997353623552_n.jpg
  • 37005270_10212658185744721_8422878141055238144_n.jpg
  • Inked36924215_10212658185264709_296169820766863360_n_LI.jpg
  • Inked36931384_10212658184664694_6017203685107433472_n_LI.jpg


#25
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

So some pulling apart of hubs and careful thought the path of least resistance (hopefully pending outcome) is to change to the RVR front hub. The bearings and CV shaft inserts are physically bigger and different and wont work with the galant hub. It bolts on the same and is physically the same apart from one difference, the tie rod faces down not up. So im hoping not to completely screw with the geometry and get massive bump steer etc changing the direction. Short of redrilling the face of the hub which i really dont want to do its the only choice. Will just have to bolt it all up and see and hopefully not tear it all down and redrill the galant hubs and whack em back on wasting the 500 invested so far into this front end. 



#26
ozyvr4

ozyvr4

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 555 posts
  • LocationBrisbane, Banyo
Great find.
2001 Legnum daily

A-spec VR4 FP3052 in construction.

#27
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

So a few updates recently. Been pulling a few late nights to speed this thing a long and its not too far off being done. Motor and box are out. Many hours of scrubbing and cleaning and the motor and box are shiny, block is painted while i was at it, manifolds and accessories taken off and cleaned from the years of crud built up on them. Kframe has been dropped, stripped, cleaned and painted, fresh bushes throughout everywhere from mitsubishi, most were around 5 bucks each. Cleaned up the engine bay and primed/painted where it was getting some minor surface rust. New CV outers to suit the rvr hubs, inner boots, tie rods, control arm poly bushes sway bar poly bushes, pads and rotors etc etc. New plugs/leads/gaskets everywhere etc. Gotta put the motor in by the end of the week, will just be waiting on a few gaskets. Then whack everything back in the engine bay. Jack the rear up and do the rear end, finish the 5 stud conversion on the rear i ended up getting new galant rotors and got them professionally redrilled. Look like the fronts which are also multi stud straight from RDA. Not sure what bushes etc ill need back there but ive put the new calipers on, new pads, bearings etc. Need to drop the fuel tank and clean what im expecting to be a gummed mess in there hopefully not rust. change the pump then i can fire it up without a continuous stream of start ya bastard. Couple of minor interior things, couple of siezed belts to be changed, put the new rear seats in etc. Then its off to the bodyshop to get the few things sorted before rego to do with the rust patches ive taken out i wanna properly get those fully cleaned out, plates welded and contoured in place etc. boot needs to be done at a minimum so it doesnt leak again.  Beyond that nothing major i can think of. About a week or two of solid work and will be ready for a roady i think. Havent been taken many pictures with progress before and after shots as im lazy and too busy to stop and take photos so itll only be an odd one here and there of the finished product. 



#28
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane
Progress photos

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20180729_172739.jpg
  • 20180729_172643.jpg
  • 20180729_162336.jpg


#29
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

Been very busy last week or so, mostly put back together few minor things i need to do like finish rebuilding the driveshafts to get it back on its wheels and service the injectors to get the rail back in etc. Need to swap the booster and master over to the RVR one i have to go with the bigger double piston calipers. Got some 'ceramic coating' paint on the manifold and it turned out really well. Even the intake manifold turned out really well i thought id botch the red lettering but looks ok. Every single part on this thing has not been put back in unless its been thoroughly gone over or replaced. Any bushings/anything rubber replaced. All hoses, serviceable items etc. This has turned into a resto job and im pleased with the outcome. Waiting on a few other minor things like the top radiator bushings, a RF hub and itll be put back on the ground and the rear put up to get the rear sorted.



#30
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane
Forgot to add a pic of the crossmember done

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20180716_223746.jpg


#31
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

So the donor car that i originally bought for a couple of little things turned out to be a granny driven garaged all its life car and i really cant put into words how clean it is. After a week of delibertaing and trying to find valid reasons for not reshelling a car i cant really justify not doing it. Not a scuff on the carpet, not a crack in the dash, not even a single hair under the rear seat base or a 5c coin it really is a proven granny garaged car and i got the sucker for 500 bucks. Going to be putting the twin cam motor in it, complete body kit, interior etc etc the only thing that may not be swaped over is the rear wiper and aeriel as the aus delivered ones are no wiper and antenna in the glass. So id have to delete the body antenna, and get another rear windshield. Its still going for paint and panel as i need to get all the door moulds etc swapped over and i want it the metallic grey my vx-s is, so thats not an issue but i really dont want to disturb the chrome moulds around the windshield, as they are mint, and if i break or bend any of them.... might have to have a practice run on the vx-s and see if theres a certain trick to getting them of without breaking...

Either way ive gotta rip everything outta the vx-s again and whack it into the new "vx-s". 



#32
ENGINR

ENGINR

    Wannabe Racer

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 5,061 posts
  • LocationMelbourne
Nice! Glad to hear you're maintaining such a mint example.
"I got an idea, an idea so smart my head would explode if I even began to know what I was talking about." - Peter Griffin

#33
White Knight

White Knight

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 930 posts
  • LocationGympie
Doing an awesome job mate, well done bud.

#34
unhuman

unhuman

    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 132 posts
  • LocationNew Zealand

Kinda snowballing here lol... :)



#35
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

Some photos of the new galant. Stock as a rock, only thing ive done before i took the photos was get the jap rear lights in. I think im going to leave the interior in it. Its too mint to replace with the other one. Its in fairly good nick the VXS interior but she aint got nothing on this one. Ill still swap over all climate control, electric everything etc and the bodykit will just be this interior trim. 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 39986150_235677743955956_8910663280578527232_n.jpg
  • 40001249_598457230556307_64222804890877952_n.jpg
  • 40017370_1066986140142370_2091983066988806144_n.jpg
  • 40025997_320936702010562_6566998995514687488_n.jpg
  • 40026924_891246921068727_6544435973235671040_n.jpg
  • 40027888_274005630097395_7734158780564242432_n.jpg
  • 40106860_905720142961318_3910823484015509504_n.jpg


#36
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

Shes registered with the SOHC as of yesterday. driving good, everything seems to be running nice. Whilst on the hoist the front main decided to blow so it turned into a pump/belt service new ancillary belts and a few other little things. More will be fiddled with over the coming weeks!



#37
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

Teething period seems to have passed. Few niggly things but have been adjusted/sorted and is running mint. Got a set of oz racing evo style wheels for it that are mint, just need to get some rubber on em and theyll go on. Been tidiying up a few little things like repainting the black door tops from their faded selves. Stereo is all installed and done so have sat nav/bluetooth etc etc. Grandpa spec otherwise, with mats, dashmat, steering wheel cover etc cleanest bloody 80s car ive ever seen. slowly pulling the other car apart. Will receive the jap conversion as soon as the RVR is back on the road and i dont need it to get to work. Will get the dohc, climate control, body kit etc. Im thinking i want gloss black together with the little extra chrome accents that are on the aus delivered galants would look sick. Not sure what im going to do interior wise i like the look of the vr4 interior slightly more but its in very average condition, whereas the brown curent interior is mint. I might look into changing current interior to the dark grey and just reco the seats and swap them out to finish it off. 

Started my new job this week at the dealership which does mitsi as well as holden/subaru/hyundai and nissan so any parts i need that are still available in the world i can get my hands on easy enough. Centre console catch for instance 7 bucks.  



#38
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

Another beautiful 20 dollar mod. Wireless charging in the centre console. Took all of 20min with the console out and couldnt be happier with the fitment vs time and money invested. 

Ive ordered a brand new genuine front bar out of japan as its not worth saving the current one would be the same price to buy new. Ive almost stripped out the vx-s entirely and will be doing the conversion during or before the xmas break so i can get the RVR in the garage again and get that up to speed again the itch is starting to grow with it. 

Ive decided i want bags in the galant (aftermarket), and if its possible to hook it up so the dash buttons work for them. Even if i had the 10k to replace factory units most of the parts are discontinued and not sitting on a shelf in a warehouse in japan, simply cant get em anymore. Will be quite a while down the track id imagine with the rvr getting a fair run next year see what happens.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 44247654_188953901916607_4833094683502575616_n.jpg
  • 44253177_2739484972944234_5510278762563895296_n.jpg


#39
Taz

Taz

    Advanced Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 456 posts
  • LocationBrisbane

Donor car is now fully stripped down to nothing, shell is out of the garage and just finishing working on a few parts while i have the garage space before its packed again with another galant in pieces. Theres a LOT of extra parts, especially wiring in the donor car. The thing is space age compared to its australian counterpart. a good 50kg in wiring alone all up id say easy.

Will update with photos again once its all a bit more sorted and  not so messy in the garage. 




2 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users