155 replies to this topic

[BMGTZ]

if you have the bit that usually bolts to the block on a vr4 engine......you can use a Hyundai body mount. they look the same as a std VR4 mount but sit the motor in the right position and are cheap

[FLIBYUGSR]

nice.. il have a check in the garage. that sounds like to good option

[BMGTZ]

1.6 lantra passengers side mont

[Mister_Resister]

question bout this
ive got a cc exec as my daily but wantin to 63 it
ive got a gsr wreck here with big front damage like real bad haha
just wondering how you go with the rear wheel drive conversions i saw it somewhere but cant find it lol
and could i use the whole gsr loom through the whole car (coz i want the electrics) and plug it into the 63?

[Evo-00x]

GUYS, IM POSTING THE RVR TO EVO 4G63 ENGINE CONVERSION IN HERE AS MOST GUYS GO THIS ROUTE WHEN UPGRADING FROM A GSR ENGINE (WHEN EVO ENGINES ARE HARD TO FIND).
IVE RECENTLY CHANGED MY ISP PROVIDER AND AM GOING TO BE LOSING MY ONLINE PHOTO ALBUM, THEREFORE I'VE TRANSFERED INFO FROM EVOCOUPE.NET (WHICH IS ALSO GOING TO BE REVAMPED SOON) AND THESE PHOTOS IN HERE. THIS INFO WILL COME IN HANDY FOR ALL GOING THE 4G63T ROUTE. THANKS. ROB.

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN RVR AND EVO ENGINE BLOCKS
The RVR vs EVO block comparison is very important to consider when doing a 4G63T conversion.

Info below

1. Normal turbo RVR's had the 2G Eclipse engine
2. RVR Hypergear had the EVO engine (EVO 3 so people say)

Reason being is that I've built another RVR engine this past week and the thing looks like an Eclipse motor... yup, the ones prone to crankwalk (not on auto's though). The block is identical to the Eclipse with a small 'bullet' style oil squirter. I compared the side of the block to an Eclipse engine as well as the welsh plug configuration and for my mind its the same thing. The engine came out of auto with a TD05 turbine housing and TD04 comp cover. (See pic of RVR engine called Type 1 - the engine I just built)

BUT, the previous RVR engine I built last year had the large EVO type oil squirters in it with the long nozzles spraying right up under the piston skirts. I dont know what turbo came out on this one, possibly the 16G? (See Pic of RVR engine called Type 2 - engine I built last year)

I've compared both of them to an EVO block I worked previously on too. Both RVR type 2 and the EVO block appear to be identical with the same oil squirters inside. The RVR type 1, however, is the same as an Eclipse engine and for my ind should be avoided if intended to use on a manual transmission with a very h/duty clutch

Hypergear is definitely E3 motor with big16g, E3 cams etc. SSG should be as well, but will have smaller td04 and cams, as does the auto.

Not exactly. There are definitely 2 different types of RVR blocks, internals and bolt ons.


The engine Im currently working on has the same plenum, same bracket for the top mount intercooler, throttle body linkage same way, same intake pipe into the tb, same titanium coloured rocker cover, front engine mount, same thermostat housing, same black top 450cc injectors (with green tip twin sprayers), same water cooled oil filter housing and same CAS setup as found on many RVR's etc. The whole engine package also came an RVR wiring loom and RVR ECU.


The side of the head shows the numbers . The turbo is a TD04HL comp housing with the numbers 49189-02500 on it with a twin 6 blade comp wheel. The turbine housing has the numbers 89-12200 and 050 on it (a TD05 rear). This package had an Automatic transmission bolted to it.


Heres a link (2 pages) to some pics I just put up http://orion2001.gal....net.au/album06

Here's some more pics of the motor before it was disassembled below.

Also, check out the differences in the blocks. The placement of the WELSH PLUGS on the intake side is a dead giveaway as to which RVR engine it is... ie, Type 1 = RVR with the Eclipse bullet style oil squirter block; and Type 2 = RVR with the Evo style oil squirter block.

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Edited by EVO-00X, 26 October 2011 - 01:26 AM.

[Evo-00x]

Also the items you need to change from RVR to EVO ie Evo Thermostat housing, EVO CAS, EVO throttlebody, EVO injectors, EVO or GSR wiring loom, EVO ECU if using 510cc injectors, transmission backing plate, and more (read the info below) will give you a headache trying to track down, plus cost you more in the long run to piece together than just buying and evo engine in the first place!
I transferred my notes from the evocoupe forum in here. RVR engine was rebuilt with EVO add-ons and transferred into a CC coupe which had GSR wiring loom and transmission already.

Date: Tue Aug 18, 2009

Quoting my post from evocoupe.net forum regarding fitting an RVR engine into a CC Lancer:

It was enough for us guys who have already done several conversions to tear our hair out let alone for yourself who hasnt done one before. There's just too much extra shit to buy and things you have to sort out.

We had several dramas with this conversion which didnt make it as straightforward as expected. You can see a bunch of photos by flipping through pages 4+ in this album: http://orion2001.gal...u/Angelo?page=4 . We ended up using an EVO II engine loom and EVO II ECU so the setup was basically going the EVO route. The good thing about using the EVO loom and ECU is that it simply plugs into the same place the factory loom does with minimal fuss. Then you just change a few things in the engine bay to suit.

Pages 4 and 5: We had some dramas with Angelo's firewall being cracked at the clutch master cylinder (where most CC Lancers suffer from firewall flex), plus his clutch pedal box assembly was also cracked and beyond repair. I gave him one from spares I had form the M21 wreck and Neil made up a plate to help reinforce it. Got Frankie around to weld up the crack in the firewall and also a retaining nut inside the AWD k-frame as well. As we were also using the GSR AWD gearbox locked to 2WD with the locking spline, we required the AWD k-frame and crossmember. Another common problem with Evo crossmembers is that the nuts inside the k-frame tend to break free from the welds and become loose. Meek supplied us with this one and we had to weld the nut in positon so we could bolt up the lower control arm to it. If you look closely at the pictures, you'll see that Frankie did a good job of welding up the cracks right through and even brought along a crack of his own!

Page 6: Installing the 2WD locking spline and pics of the new Exedy h/duty clutch kit

Page 7: The RVR backing plate bolted to the block behind the flywheel had to be changed for a manual transmission item. We simply removed the plate form Angelo's GSR engine and bolted it to the RVR block (with the flywheel still on ) . I also ditched the factory RVR CAS and installed one form an Auspec Galant VR4. An Evo item would do toom so doesnt matter which one you get. You will also find that we had to buy new EVO upper and lower thermostat housings for the RVR thermostat. Meek came to the rescue for these parts and I had a spare lower radiator hose from an EVO we could use with Angelo's existing radiator to mate up to the lower thermostat housing. A new thermostat was also purchased for the build. Yet again Meek was called upon because we had to purchase an upper and lower EVO engine mount too as the RVR items would place the motor at an incorrect angle in the CC engine bay.

Page 8: Pics of the RVR Sportsgear turbo. Its basically a TD05 turbine housing and a TD04 compressor housing and wheel.

Page 9: As we were ditching the RVR factory throttle body, we bought an EVO throttle body and idle stepper instead to use. Where did we buy it? Meek of course But the RVR throttle opening in the intake manifold was only 55mm in diameter and needed to be ported to 60mm. So out came the dremel and Mik-e did a fantastic job of opening it up to suit the 60mm Evo TB. Also on page 9 are some random pics of the engine build. Basically it received new ACL bearings all round, new OEM replacement pistons and rings, new ARP main and head studs, new Cometic headgasket, new water pump, new timing belt kit, new timing case cover, new gaskets all round and the usual new rubber hoses etc.

Page 10: You'll notice we threw in some EVO 510cc injectors on the engine too. We also ended up using an EVO turbo intake pipe and AFM. You can use an RVR AFM if you have one as its the same thing. Once the engine was in Mik-e removed the under bonnet brace which fouls on the timing belt and sprayed it pretty much as close to the car's orginal colour as possible. This made it possible to be able to close the bonnet down onto the 2 litre engine... but still not with the top timing belt cover on. If you want to close the bonnet with the top cover on you will either have to raise the back of the bonnet up with washers, or maybe get a bonnet bulge like mine made in it.

I'm happy to say that the engine started first go within 2 seconds of cranking once oil pressure was up and we plugged the ignitor and coils in - thats a 100% success rate so far lol . Got a problem though with what appears to be a leaking heater hose somewhere and 2 welsh plugs under the intake manifold appear to be dripping slightly. Im a bit pissed off about the welsh plugs as I dont use the brand that we ended up getting. It appeared to go in very easy for me and I mentioned to the boys that these didnt require as much force to get in as all the others I've done. Well, at the end of the day they werent very good so they'll either have to get replaced from underneath on a hoist or remove the intake manifold and change them from there as there's a lot more room that way).

Anyhow, theres a few other little bits and pieces you need to do like extend the alertnator wires to the front of the car to meet the 4G63 alternator (extend cables to go under the radiator to the alternator), also drill out the accelerator cable holes larger diameter so the 4G63 fuel rail bolts can go through them, use a GSR/Evo purge control solenoid valve and injector resistor pack bracket on the firewall, have to get a new exhaust system to bolt onto the turbo dump pipe obviously, we have both the FWD cups and driveshafts currently going into the AWD box but will be soon replacing the passenger side shaft with a 2-piece evo shaft (less torque steer), and then there's the whole intercooler drama. You're basically going to have to have to find something that suits. We currently are using Angelo's existing GSR cooler setup and a small throttle body and throttle body elbow off his GSR to get it running, then replacing the lot with EVO items after he gets the zorst sorted and engne runs in. Oh yeh, and ditch the 1.8 litre thermo fans because they wont fit depending on your intercooler setup. We're going to put some thermo's on Angelo's car instead

There you go, just remembered we also replaced new alternator belt, power steering belt and ball joint boots as well. Plus obviously new brake fluid, clutch fluid, power steerng fluid and filters. Its been a looooong 3 days work but nearly finished now. Angelo, Gabe and Mik are taking the coupe to get the exhaust done tomorrow so its not sounding like a drag car

All in all it was a great combined effort from Gabe (slave boy), Mik-e (gay boy), Angelo (food boy), Frank-e (weld boy), Neil (fab boy) and myself that got this job done. Its great to have friends who you can rely on to help you out now and then when you get stuck with something you cant do yourself. Cheers boys

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Edited by EVO-00X, 11 February 2011 - 10:52 AM.

[Evo-00x]

4G63T PASSENGER SIDE CV SHAFT & HANGER BRACKET

There has also been a lot of Tech and Wanted to Buy posts over the years where people are trying to track down a 4G63T passenger side CV - the one with the hanger bracket on it that bolts to the back of the 4G63T engine block.
Many dont realise that they can still keep their existing GSR cv shaft and only need to replace the bracket and bearing to make it fit the new engine!
ie. You press off your existing GSR hanger bracket from the shaft, then press on an EVO/RVR or VR4 hanger bracket in its place. Its always good to fit a new bearing and grease at the time of installation. The bearing costs around $10 from Repco or a SuperCheap Auto store or similar. Its part number is a 6206 sealed bearing.

Note: If you dont have the 4G63T aircon compressor bracket already installed on the back of the block, then you will need 8mm worth of washers to pack out one of the bolts that hold this cv hanger bracket to the block. A lot of guys accidentally throw out their 4G63T aircon bracket and forget that they actually still need it to sit the CV Hanger bracket at the correct height and angle. Also, you will need 46mm length bolts (not including the bolt head) to mount the hanger bracket onto the block. These bolts have a special tip on them. I've included pics to show you

Here are some pics I took of the components within inside the 4G63T Hanger Bracket - pretty simple stuff really.
Pic1: Disassembled CV Hanger Bracket showing internal components.
Pic2: Pic of the 6206 sealed bearing. It looks the same on both sides. You can buy these generic bearings at most auto spare parts stores. OR, Mitsu bearing kit number MB526956
Pic3: Pic of a damaged dust cover with the bearing stuck inside it. It finally presses back onto the bracket once the bearing has already been pressed in. Try not to damage it! lol. Mitsu part number MB526535
Pic4: Pic of the different way an EVO or RVR or VR4 hanger bracket may be mounted on the CV shaft to suit your application.

Pic5: Aircon compressor mounting bracket on the back of a 4G63 block.

Pic6: Bolt lengths and tips. 

Pic7: Changing a 4G93T GSR passenger side CV shaft to suit a 4G63T block. 

Pic 8: Part numbers for the EVO RH hanger bracket, seal kit, bolts and spacers and shaft itself. You can try purchasing them through Amayama. DONT FORGET to look at the QTY Quantity Column!!! You will need 2 x bolts, 2 x washers and 2 x spacers. 

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Edited by EVO-00X, 01 April 2014 - 10:52 AM.

[sly-006]

if you have the bit that usually bolts to the block on a vr4 engine......you can use a Hyundai body mount. they look the same as a std VR4 mount but sit the motor in the right position and are cheap

Hey buddy any more of an update of if this did end up working as I have just brought a gsr with 63 in it but has not been driven on but standard bonnet shuts fine and I noticed the drive shaft looks to be on a fare angle so guessing it's not the right mount! I'm not even sure what model the motor is out off!

[BMGTZ]

post a picture

[sly-006]

post a picture

I have one on my phone but it won't let me post it up of here! And I work away so prob won't get to put it up for a few days! Unless u can pm me your number I can send it through!

[sly-006]

1.6 lantra passengers side mont

Can anyone tell me if these work as I need a mount for my gsr that I just brought cheers baxta

[jack be nimble]

i think the lantra mount only applies if you have the vr4 style of mount to bolt it too. the vr4 has a horseshoe type arrangement on the timing side of the engine and the lantra mount bolts to this.


this presumes the gsr you bought has a 4g63 in it. if you have the 4g93- 1.8l then you need standard gsr mounts, available at repco or wherever

[sly-006]

i think the lantra mount only applies if you have the vr4 style of mount to bolt it too. the vr4 has a horseshoe type arrangement on the timing side of the engine and the lantra mount bolts to this.


this presumes the gsr you bought has a 4g63 in it. if you
have the 4g93- 1.8l then you need standard gsr mounts, available at repco or wherever

Thanks heaps ok got some pics! I am thinking from what u have said that this is the horse shoe sales mount so I might be able to get away with the cheaper option after all! After looking at the car this morning the motor does seem to sit lower on the passenger side and the drive shaft on this side also looks to be on a pretty nasty looking angle

[111GSR]

A quick re-fresh.

My current 4G63T (VR4) engine has all the vr4 engine mounts, including the above pictured horseshoe.

Im looking around for Evo3 passenger side engine mount but finding it hard to come by without paying $400 or so.

So im correct, i can keep the block half of the horseshoe mount on the block and just get the lantra top half which will get me out of trouble ?

[leadfoot]

and the required stuff is gone keep it to pm please guys

[Lemsta2]

Hey guys, quick question.
Looking to put a 4G63 in my GSR. Its a daily driver so the 63 doesn't have to be built for track or drag.
Just need to know a ball park figure on how much its going to cost (including labor for a mech to install) so I can start saving.
Thanks in advance.

[jack be nimble]

I will ballpark it at $5k

[Lemsta2]

Cool thanks.
Guess its time to sell one of my kidneys

[leadfoot]

now take that 5k and double it just incase!. my 4g93t conversion cost me 2.5k that was with a back to stock rebuild and doing all the work myself.

a good mechanic should have the motor in and out in 3-5 hours leaving only the wiring and inter-cooler piping to work out. i would say it's going to be 2-3k in labour plus parts

[111GSR]

Are we able to get back to the engine mount question? (last piece of the puzle before i can put my 4g63 in )

To make things simple ill ID the mounts in current possession (passenger/cam belt side) .

A = VR4 horse shoe mount with rubber insert.
B = VR4 block mounted solid mount.
C = VR4 support mount. (used to support horse shoe mount but is now modified to remove the ugly 2 bolts)

From my understanding i can use the "B" vr4 mount with elantra mount which has the rubber insert to  pull this off ?

Edited by BZY247, 23 May 2013 - 11:55 PM.