37 replies to this topic

[bennygsr]

Hi guys

I have done a search on rear sway bar fitment, however could not come up with any posts.

I have just purchased it, and had a quick look under the car to see how easy it fits and I can't tell what I might need to remove. It appears that the gap between the spare wheel holder and the connection between two wheels is too tight for it to just fit through ?

It also looks like the exahust will have to come off ? Is this correct ? If anyone has any pics of a fitment, or link to a good website detailing it, please let me know.

THanks

[mimmo_gsr]

What size swaybar did you get, the 18mm or the 20mm?

To remove the old sway bar you need to undo the two end-links and the 'U' brackets. You may want to buy some new end-links because the ones on your car are probably past their prime. I think they are about $75 each from Mitsubishi and there 'appears' to be no after market alternative.

The 'U' brackets can be seen in this image, the sway bar should have come with two polyurathane D-bushes to fit in here when you install the new bar.



The gap between the spare tyre well and the cross member is a bit tight. I took to mine with an angle grinder and ground off a small section of the well support closest to the cross member. If the gap still isn't large enough just get a crowbar and adjust the spare tyre well a little. It will fit.

The old one is fairly easy to pull out once everything is undone, but can I suggest you use some ramps as opposed to stands as you want the suspension under compression rather than at full droop as this puts tension on the bar. At normal height the bar isn't under much tension.

To put the new bar in make sure you have it the right way, because it will not fit the other way...I found this out the hard way!

Just fit the bar in the space, once its in then grease the D-bushes up and fit them, then try to re-fit the tie rod ends. The first end will be easy, but the second side may need a little bit of effort to fit in in the holes.

Tools:

Socket Set
Ring Spanners and Open End Spanners
Allen Keys or Allen Key sockets.

To undo the tie rod ends you will need an allen key inserted in the end and you then need to hold that still to undo the retaining nut. If you don't do that the bolt will just spin and it wont come undone. If its old and siezed it will probably come undone but better to do it properly.

I think thats all. It should fit above the exhaust without much trouble, thats why it has that kink in it. Maybe just undo the rubber muffler supports to give you a little extra room. It should droop enough to give you clearance if it doesn't its not that big a job to undo it just two bolts.

Mimmo

[mimmo_gsr]

Here it is from another angle.







The middle photo shows the small amount of metal that was cut away and then the support section that was bent a little.

The rubber exhaust mount in the last photo will need to be taken off to fit the bar in that section, other than that I don't think you need to move much else.

Mimmo

[GSR_BOY]

Great work Mimmo... Awesome technical "How to..." guide.

[bennygsr]

Thanks a lot for that Mimmo, I really appreciate your work. Now all I need is the time to do it !

[bennygsr]

Ok, today I got to swapping my rear swaybar. Mimmo: your How to was extrememly valuable and a great insight into what I could expect. It did however take me about 6 hours total (far too long for anyone who is mechanically minded � which certainly isn't me!)


A few things I might add for anyone searching this HOW TO:


1. I undid ALL exhaust bolts, gave a lot more room, rather than just the one.


2. removing it is not too difficult: I don't have or no how to use an angle grinder, and just used wrenches for leverage to Squeeze the gap between the spare wheel well and the cross member. That worked ok, just doesn't look too good.


3. Putting the new one in was my nightmare: took me hours - until I realised I didn't have enough space at one point of the wheel well.


4. Some people have written how putting the second bush back on is difficult: For some reason this was very easy for me: I couldn't get the bush bracket out on the petrol hose side (drivers side), so did this side first, and the exhaust side next. No problems.


Apart from that I don't have much to add. Probably should have saved myself the effort, and paid the $65 quoted to have it fitted, but its a great step forward for my personal pride and the ability to rid myself of the second left hand I usually possess !!


Finally: The cornering change is FANTASTIC. Much tighter through ALL cornering so far (around my local area)


Special thanks to Mimmo once again !

[yelevo]

For anybody else attempting this upgrade all you need to do is loosen the six bolts holding the rear crossmember in. You will only need to loosen them by about seven turns. Make sure you use jack stands and use a jack under the xmember to lower and lift.

[lefty]

Hi, im wondering about getting a rear sway bar also for my gsr, but i want to know if its really going to be a good or bad thing.

Atm, im fairly happy with the car (cant complain), but i do occasionally feel that the rear can still lean a little (coming down mt.dandy before the big u-turn ). With the added stiffness will this mean i will loose some grip?

In the wet my car doesnt seem to grip that well, usually 3rd gear at 2000rpm @ 40km/h and you turn the wheel a little hard and theres some awd sideways. Ive got gab suspension, with front strut bar, and i think some cheapish tyres at the front but have heaps of tread.

[mimmo_gsr]

Hi, im wondering about getting a rear sway bar also for my gsr, but i want to know if its really going to be a good or bad thing.

Atm, im fairly happy with the car (cant complain), but i do occasionally feel that the rear can still lean a little (coming down mt.dandy before the big u-turn ). With the added stiffness will this mean i will loose some grip?

In the wet my car doesnt seem to grip that well, usually 3rd gear at 2000rpm @ 40km/h and you turn the wheel a little hard and theres some awd sideways. Ive got gab suspension, with front strut bar, and i think some cheapish tyres at the front but have heaps of tread.

First things first, get 4 new tyres that are the same. Mismatching tyres front and rear firstly is not good for all round grip and secondly its supposed to be bad for the centre diff.

My car had poor quality rear tyres and the new swaybar did make it more tail happy, but at the same time it was more predictable as to when it was going to break traction and start to slide. Changing to 4 new tyres fixed this issue.

Another thing that helped is to get the front castor bush/anti lift kit fitted to the car.

My car is yet to go sideways on the bitumen, it has only slid around on the gravel and it has done that in a very composed manner which gives you a bit more confidence.

Mimmo

[lefty]

First things first, get 4 new tyres that are the same. Mismatching tyres front and rear firstly is not good for all round grip and secondly its supposed to be bad for the centre diff.

My car had poor quality rear tyres and the new swaybar did make it more tail happy, but at the same time it was more predictable as to when it was going to break traction and start to slide. Changing to 4 new tyres fixed this issue.

Another thing that helped is to get the front castor bush/anti lift kit fitted to the car.

My car is yet to go sideways on the bitumen, it has only slid around on the gravel and it has done that in a very composed manner which gives you a bit more confidence.

Mimmo

hrm well when i get new rear ones ill get the same set. I needed the front two for a road worthy when i got the car. Tnxs for the advice

[bennygsr]

I have heard that the castor kit/ anti lift kit is very useful.


WHilst my cornering is better, the new rear swaybar has highlighted the lift I'm getting at the front.


Is this castor kit an easy kit to fit yourself, or do you "need to know what you're doing" with this one.


Perhaps the standard Koni's (red) i had fitted are just too soft with my stock springs� Darren from Afas seemed to think so.

[mimmo_gsr]

The Castor kit is kinda easy to fit, but you may need an extra set of hands for some leverage.

As the new castor bush is offset compared to the original one you need someone to push/hold the lower arm in place while the other person puts the bolts in.

Pretty straight forward other than that, there are 4, 14mm bolts which can be easily undone with a socket set. A pry bar may also be handy to ease the old bush off. Mine were so stuck I ended up cutting most of the old one off, now that part was hard :?

Part number you are looking for KCA317A or KCA317X I think they are the same part anyway, just make sure when you order you stipulate that you want the one with anti lift.

Mimmo

[GSRace]

Awesome reading here fella's, I'm focusing on suspension on my car now. ..And since I've just got a deal on some shocks, I wanted to check out the whiteline swaybars, and bush upgrades..

What's next man? Should we replace both swaybars at once?

[mimmo_gsr]

There is no aftermarket alternative for the CC Lancer range in terms of front swaybars and the front is pretty chunky at 24mm anyway so not much need there. Unless you can get something custom made = $$$$

Mimmo

[mimmo_gsr]

Here are the castor bushes/anti lift, these are on the left hand/passenger side of the car, so the offset needs to be on the outermost side of the car to achieve max castor.

Sorry about the picture quality



New front swaybar links are also a good idea, these are Nolothane poly bushes.



Mimmo

[bennygsr]

Since replacing the rear sway bar, I have encountered a problem.

I have heard some "clonking" coming from what appeared the left rear side.

The sway bar attachment to the left endlink is not quite as tight as on the other side, however I don't seem to be able to tighten it anymore. Is this the endlink having given up ?

I can't see any other reason for the clonking. All the other swaybar attachements are tight, and I didn't touch anything else.

[yelevo]

You have to stop the link from turning as you tighten it. If you can not use an allen key you can use a pair of needle nose vise grips to stop the link end from turning as you tighten it.

[bennygsr]

Yes, I am aware of needing the allen key. I placed the allenkey under the driveshaft, so when I turn the spanner on the bolt, the allenkey hits the shaft, and then can't go any further.

Now I have tightened this bolt quite well I feel, and even when tight, there still is some movement which appears to be coming from the endlink. I could be wrong though.

[yelevo]

The sway bar links are a ball and socket setup when they wear out they get freeplay in the joint itself remove the link from the vehicle and check for freeplay by pushing the end in and out any movement at all requires replacement. Also make sure all sway bar d bush brackets are tight and that the bar is not fouling on anything.
Hope this helps

[mimmo_gsr]

Yeah mine started clunking too, but after replacing the end links the problem has gone.

On my end links the rubber boots were pretty knackered and they were very loose.

Pity they are Mitsubishi only and cost $70 each!!

Mimmo