19 replies to this topic

[EVL20T]

Ok guys i have a problem with my engine and i dunno what it could be

I was drivin home tonight and decided to boost it up abit (6000rpm on 1 bar boost) and all of a sudden i felt no power, the engine started to make knockin sounds, and as soon as i put my clutch down i feel knockin on the clutch pedal and it will stall, i pulled over and opened my bonnet my turbo was glowin red, and some of the knockin sounds felt like it was comin from the intake manifold but it doesnt make sense, i started the car and reved it slightly to 4000rpm and my boost hit .35 bar

i dunno what the problem could be, i drove it up the road to see how bad it was and it has noooo guts, i would drive it but it will struggle to get to 3500rpm

[youda]

turbo may have s#@t itself explains the heat from the turbo and why the car stalled.

[evo400]

Have you checked for any leaks in your intake piping or loose clamps?
Could be a pipe thats not visible

[EVL20T]

Have you checked for any leaks in your intake piping or loose clamps?
Could be a pipe thats not visible

theres no leaks, the motor clunks and sounds like something is about to fall out

[GSRWRC]

Sounds like you've run a bearing.

[DOUGMO]

might have a broken ring,

have you done a comp test.

probably wouldt do that to the turbo though

[Evo-00x]

I would start by unbolting the air intake to the turbo and look at the blades on your compressor wheel in case parts of it have broken off. Try also bypassing the intercooler with a flexi-hose incase something inside it gave way under boost and is causing boost leak. Either would explain loss of power so whatever you do dont start the motor up again until you've made sure both have a clean bill of health and there are no metal bits floating around in there. If you notice some broken bits off the compressor wheel, take off your throttle body and look inside the intake manifold for debris although there shouldnt be anything in there if you've kept driving around as it probably sucked it though.

Secondly, I know you've recently changed the tappet cover so are you sure you havent accidently dropped something inside while the cover was off? If something did fall in like a bolt or a nut it may be stopping one of the valves from fully closing (it may also have broken a rocker arm/spring retainer to let go etc) and with a valve not fully closing it would cause excessive heat in the engine. Visually inspect the valvetrain making sure all is functioning properly and that all valves are closing hard. Leave the car in neutral and turn the cam gears and push and pull on each rocker arm to see if they are functioning properly as well.

Last of all, drop all your oil out of the sump and remove the filter, look for bits of metal inside which would indicate problems internally and we'll have to pull the motor down to find out what it is i.e. bearing etc.

[tenji`]

whats the oil pressure like?


sounds like piston slap...


also


the main question should be, does u hear the sound at idle? or when u hit the accelerator?


if its at idle, u have blown a piston


if its on accell, its a big end bearing

besides the point, if u have blown the engine...u shouldnt drive it in case a piece of the piston or bearing shoots through the engine and kills other parts of the car...

the turbo might be going red because its trying to compensate and help the car run...


thats only a guess going by your story.

[gsrevo3]

could be balancing shafts i just had similar problem and was the balancing shafts. all good now though just put kit through to remove them altogether. 8)

[EVL20T]

its was only on accelorating, i drained the oil and i found a small 10mm pin like thing, looks like a part of a piston ring

i havnt driven it since the night it stuffed up

[Evo-00x]

Looks like we're gonna have to pull it down for a rebuild then :twisted: start saving

[tenji`]

yep looks like rebuilding will be on the agenda.

[EVL20T]

Can i just throw a VR4 6bolt bottom end on and drive away?

[Benny]

No, the headstud sizes are different... Along with other numerous things.

[JSTYLE]

No, the headstud sizes are different... Along with other numerous things.

doesnt mean you cant drill the evo head to suit 12mm studs

Jon

[Evo-00x]

Yeah but still means he's gonna want to make sure the VR4 bottom end is up to scratch before using it anyhow otherwise an import engine might not last as long again. Michael, I reckon bring your motor up to me in 2 halves (head off the block as it can fit in the boot of a car). Leave it with me and I'll get it sorted - just give me $$

[GSRSOL]

Yeah but still means he's gonna want to make sure the VR4 bottom end is up to scratch before using it anyhow otherwise an import engine might not last as long again. Michael, I reckon bring your motor up to me in 2 halves (head off the block as it can fit in the boot of a car). Leave it with me and I'll get it sorted - just give me $$

damn i wish i had an offer like that 8)

[EVL20T]

Yeah but still means he's gonna want to make sure the VR4 bottom end is up to scratch before using it anyhow otherwise an import engine might not last as long again. Michael, I reckon bring your motor up to me in 2 halves (head off the block as it can fit in the boot of a car). Leave it with me and I'll get it sorted - just give me $$

damn i wish i had an offer like that 8)

LOL thats what brothers do

[ENGINR]

No, the headstud sizes are different... Along with other numerous things.

doesnt mean you cant drill the evo head to suit 12mm studs

Jon

More to it than that!! The water pipes and thermostat housing are different and if he's running an EVO external oil cooler it won't mate up to the VR4 block. It's do-able but there's little things that are just different enough to make it a pain. Trust me, Andrew Vibert and I found them out as we went along on my hybrid engine.

[boost_lover]

I would speak to Chris Meek. I know he has done these before, mixing evo and vr4 parts.