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Getting the Cyclone Manifold to work correctly
#21
Posted 17 January 2008 - 04:57 AM
cause the monte is the last last of the vr4 engines, so its quite possible it was a minor change they made.
more than meets the eye!
easist way though, do what you did, back to back dyno, that way you can also choose your changeover point.
i will be doing that when my link get tuned, but its simple for you as well GSRSOL with the 11tybillion outputs on the SM4
#22
Posted 17 January 2008 - 06:23 AM
special thanks to - TRIKFAB | Tropic Motors | Springy Motors
#23
Posted 17 January 2008 - 08:48 AM
AMG | http://www.4gtuner.c...mmc-galant-amg/
GVR4 | http://www.4gtuner.c...shi-galant-vr4/
Springy Motors | Autronic | Motec
#24
Posted 17 January 2008 - 09:47 AM
Ive got a spare pulled apart Cyclone Mani if anyone is keen....Aswell as the Diahragm and linkage and mani mount with the hard vac lines on it. I'm running the Aus manifold.
#25
Posted 17 January 2008 - 09:54 AM
Old ride: EVO VI
Old ride: JSpec VR4
#26
Posted 20 March 2009 - 11:14 AM
the top "T" pin goes to ECU pin out #53
the other "I" pin goes to the MPI relay
does any one know what terminal on the MPI relay I plug into
5 DOOR LIFTBACK
4G63 T J-SPECK EVO 0
@ 240 HP ATFW
#27
Posted 20 March 2009 - 12:18 PM
does any one know what terminal on the MPI relay I plug into
one that has power when the cars turned on
actually, the power from the MPI goes through the red wires in the engine bay.
so any large'ish gage red wire will do, personally, i would take it just before the injector resistor.
injector resistor has 5 wires, the middle wire of the resistor is just a plain switched 12v from the MPI
#28
Posted 20 March 2009 - 09:47 PM
Hey guys just trying to work out the solenoid pins for the cyclone actuator
the top "T" pin goes to ECU pin out #53
the other "I" pin goes to the MPI relay
does any one know what terminal on the MPI relay I plug into
it was pin 53 on the ECU from memory (light green wire) which is missing in the cyborg/C73A loom
#29
Posted 21 March 2009 - 12:02 AM
i ended up using the FPR solenoid wiring originally as i wasnt using the FPR stuff, i just swapped the pins at the ecu.
#30
Posted 24 March 2009 - 11:07 AM
Edited by youda, 27 March 2009 - 03:58 AM.
Oil lights are like oven alarms......they tell you when it's cooked
Green GSR.......sold VR4 AMG........sold Grey GSR still under the house.
#31
Posted 24 March 2009 - 11:13 AM
more to the point at 4000rpm the car is usually on boost meaning the actuator may not be vacum controled.
that why there is a vacumn canister in the factory system.
its a one way can that stores the vac just for that reason.
#32
Posted 04 April 2009 - 10:28 PM
i just have to drive it to see what the difference is will let you know soon
thanks for all of your help and tips boys
5 DOOR LIFTBACK
4G63 T J-SPECK EVO 0
@ 240 HP ATFW
#33
Posted 30 September 2009 - 12:55 PM
in my white lancer i have a 6 bolt.....it was there when i got it and ive just rebuilt it. it has a pretty big turbo T61 and 280 cams...waiting for that to spool up is ....slow. I started to look for causes of the slow spool....usual stuff checked for boost leaks etc. all good. however i noticed the cyclone manifold has a direct line to the actuator direct from the the plenum.
i have an old cyclone manifold the same as the one on the car that is cracked so I pulled it apart to see how it all works. when there is no vacuum the butterflies are wide open... if you suck on the hose connected to the actuator the butterflies close. regardless of long or short ...closing the runner should give a bit better spool.
so I ran the car and looked at the actuator ...at idle its firmly closing the butterflies....but as soon as i blip the throttle it loses vacuum and the butterflies open. so having read this thread i see the ecu has some bearing on keeping the actuator closed and that a vacuum canister is used to store vacuum. well the car has a wolf ecu and its old....like me. so has any one got any suggestions on how to keep some vacuum up to the actuator while there is no manifold vacuum available? I think some sort of cannister will be needed but has anyone done this before....not used the ecu to control things
BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally
I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.
#34
Posted 30 September 2009 - 08:17 PM
A solenoid will be required to close the line off / keep vac in the can therefor maintaining a closed actuator.
Connect the solenoid to your wolf output and program the wolf to open at whatever rev you decide. I'd get your tuner to do a run with the runners closed, then open, and basically find the overlapping point and open at that rpm...
AMG | http://www.4gtuner.c...mmc-galant-amg/
GVR4 | http://www.4gtuner.c...shi-galant-vr4/
Springy Motors | Autronic | Motec
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