320 replies to this topic

[Jonson]

Then why is a 2.4L crank on the mod list?

[S15ETA]

cos its a 4g64 with a treated crank if u read it correctly ull see its 2.4 not 2.3:thumbsup:

[JC evo1]

many engines being built and rebuilt at the moment, will be good to see em all running. 4G ftw!

[SIVART]

looking good Harry

[Dean]

cant wait to see the beast reawaken again soon Harry.

[Jonson]

Ah, my bad. So it is a true 2.4l then. Interesting! I will be watching this to see what numbers get pulled out of the hat. Hopefully it's smooth sailing.

[Evo-00x]

Baz, any reason why the 7 bolt 4G64 was preferred over the 6 bolt 4G64? Is it access to forged parts of the 7 bolt that makes it the clearer choice?

[bazeng]

Baz, any reason why the 7 bolt 4G64 was preferred over the 6 bolt 4G64? Is it access to forged parts of the 7 bolt that makes it the clearer choice?

We have never seen a 6bolt 4g64 from a mitsu. The only 6bolts come from the hyundai which are suitable to the older cars (180 degrees rotated). I believe you found a 6bolt from a nimbus?? Any idea on main sizes and big ends??

Anyway, we can be certain that this 7bolt will work with the evo6 bits...

[CLuTZ]

I thought the L200's (or was that L300's) were 6-bolts?

[S15ETA]

i thought the L200 was 6 bolt and hyundai was 7 bolt????
anyways those motors from those cars are rotated the wrong way.....these would suit vr4-evo3....my 7bolt was was outta something a bit different suiting evo4-9

[GSRSOL]

where did the idea come from to do the 2.4L ?

[Evo-00x]

There is definitely a 6-bolt 8 valve SOHC EFI 4G64 Nimbus engine that came out on 1991-1992 models as I had one in my hot little hands in December last year but had to return it as it was different to my 7 bolt engine.

It is easily identifable by the different rocker rocker and different dizzy setup. It's harder to find obviously as didnt come out on as many models. The 16v engines have a newer looking rocker cover and the word 16v on it .

Pics below of the 2 different engines, the 8 valve pic with the old school looking rocker cover was taken in my garage.

Anyhow this discussion might be able to be taken somewhere else One day I'll get my hands on another one. The wrecker I had originally bought it from wanted $600 for the complete engine.

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 

[DOUGMO]

there is a 6 bolt nimbus 2.4 motor but the block is the wrong width for 6 bolt vr4 motors

[S15ETA]

where did the idea come from to do the 2.4L ?

some people mentioned it as a suggestion....and the more i researched it the more i thought why not? and it was cheaper

[Evo-00x]

there is a 6 bolt nimbus 2.4 motor but the block is the wrong width for 6 bolt vr4 motors

Are you talking about the earlier 80's Nimbus' engines though George? As both the 2.4 4G64 SOHC EFI engines in the pics I posted earlier are the 1991-98 model UF Nimbus. They are fitted to the same car with obviously the same engine bay dimensions and engine mounts. I have owned 2 x UF Nimbus' now and one had the 8v engine and this current one I own has a 16v engine. One of my future plans is to build a forged 2.4 block up and I was going to source the 6-bolt bottom end to do it. Me thinks I better track one down and take some measurements this time

Sorry about above S15ETA, could be worth investigating the 6 bolt block for future reference for all of us

[fq4oo]

how strong are those 4G64's???

[bazeng]

Identical to the 63's bar a taller block and no squirters..

[bazeng]

Engine

Crank in the block
Quick sleeve installed on the end of the crank (had a nasty groove on it)..
Piston / rod clearance tested

Attached Thumbnails

• 
• 
• 

[Evo-00x]

how strong are those 4G64's???

Depends what your interpretation is of 'strong?' and what the indended purpose is of the engine. The 4G64 blocks are pretty much the same as the 4G63 but has less wall thickness in the bore walls, no oil squirters and a 6mm higher deck height. The cranks themselves are just like 4G63 7 bolt cranks and are prone to crack at number 4 crank journal so be careful with trying to rev them high. I wouldnt be revving a stock 4G64 crank higher than 8000rpm unless it were a billet item thats for sure as they werent really made for that kind of intended use.

The way I see it is if you are building a circuit/race car you'd probably stick with the 4G63 2 litre bottom end and crank which offers a good balance between high revs and torque. When fitted with properly matched big cams and turbo, plus some decent headwork, they are an all-round contender for race and rally use.

I've been told that if you bolt the same worked head, cams and turbo from a 4G63 onto a 4G64 bottom end it wont seem as aggressive and will be a little bit tamer for street use. The 4G64 block will also give you the potential to make more outright power and torque, spool larger turbos quicker and make more power on less boost than the 4G63 too. Either the 2.3 stroker (2.4 4G64 crank in a 4G63 block) or full 2.4 litre bottom end (4G64 block and crank) will do this. It goes without saying that if planning on using them for high power or drag use with big turbos and high rpm that you definitely get a billet crank.

There's advantages and disadvantages in going either way and at the end of the day it comes down to personal preference and what you will be using the car for.

Edited by EVO-00X, 19 April 2009 - 10:43 AM.

[S15ETA]

yeh i dont plan on revving past 7k and with the power and torque itll give me, why would i? as for the crank, ur right theyre exactly the same as the 63 in strength.......i dont think itll seem tame i think itll nail me in the seat everytime i put the foot down with all that torque will break balls tearing through a corner and in the streets......having that in mind id rather the 64 than the 63:thumbsup: who needs 2ltrs hahahahaha joke