23 replies to this topic

[Evo-00x]

I've been planning on putting something like this together for a while so it should clear up some misconceptions regarding ARP stud and bolt installations.


The information in the image below was gathered from ARP's own documentation found within ARP stud/bolt boxes for VR4/EVO and compared to the latest ARP Catalog for torque specifications and installation procedures for the corresponding part numbers. This has been put together to the best of my interpretation from readily available ARP data (saves scanning several pages when a one page document like this can easily be printed out when required).


The only addition I have included is an alternative to ARP's 80-80-80 ft lbs torque sequence for head studs as I have noticed a lot of people have preferred to step up their torque sequences using a 40-60-80 ft lbs approach (I'd say it depends on type of headgasket and compression qualities but each to their own really). Either way I hope you get some use out of it.

[added 2011] Special L19 ARP headstuds for drag use engines running 35+psi boost (according to Buschur Racing anything running 40psi+ and over 700whp). Fitment of the special L19 headstuds for anything other than serious engines as described is not required and the normal undercut ARP 2000 series bolts will be more than suitable.

See attcahed PDF


Rob

Attached Files

•  ARP & 4G63T SPECS.pdf   140.29KB   670 downloads

Edited by EVO-00X, 09 March 2013 - 12:26 AM.

[GSRSOL]

stickied 8)

[Evo-00x]

Oh, something to note is that the paperwork that comes with the VR4 rod bolts for example is shown below:



If you have done 3 cycles of torquing and loosening up as per pic above then you are fine. The ARP catalog specifies 5 cycles for rod bolts is sufficient also.

THE IMPORTANCE OF PROPER ROD BOLT STRETCH/TORQUE�"Friction is an extremely challenging problem because it is so variable and difficult to control. The best way to avoid the pitfalls of friction is by using the stretch method. This way preload is controlled and independent of friction. Each time the bolt is torqued and loosened, the friction factor gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, when installing a new bolt where the stretch method can not be used, the bolt should be tightened and loosened several times before final torque. The number of cycles depends on the lubricant. For ARP recommended lubes, five loosening and tightening cycles is sufficient."

There's no doubt that using a stretch gauge is the best method to determine rod bolt stretch and preload (because you have access to both ends of the bolt its fairly easy to do). ARP actually contradict themselves with the info in their catalog and the info that comes in the paperwork inside product boxes. The paperwork in the attachment above states VR4 rod bolts are to have 40ft.lbs torque anywhere between a 0.0058-0.0062" stretch limit, where their catalog advises 40 ft.lbs at 0.0060" +/- 0.0001". However, their catalog also advises to stick to whatever information comes inside the box so whether you choose to work between the paperwork specs of +/- 0.0002" or ARP's standard +/- 0.0001" on a 40ft.lbs preload is up to you as they are both correct in ARP's eyes

ARP CATALOG SPECS
107-6001 = VR4 (6 bolt crank)
107-6002 = EVO (7 bolt crank)

[Evo-00x]

EAGLE RODS & ARP2000 ROD BOLTS
As per paperwork, the 3/8" (9mm) ARP2000 rod bolts that come with Eagle Rods state 43 ft.lbs with ARP moly and a bolt stretch of 0.0055-0.0059" with no more than a 0.0001" stretch limit.


ARP HEAD STUDS & VALVESPRING CLEARANCE
Some people have problems with the headstud washer clearance to the valvesprings when installing the ARP headbolts (with aftermarket valvesprings for example). I remember the first one I ever did where I actually ground off a very small section of the outer side off the washer to clear the spring (was about a mm from memory). But since then I have been (with the help of a second person) laying the washers inside the head first, then slowly lowering the head onto the studs. By using a scewdriver to manouvre the washers as you slowly lower the head onto the head bolts you will get the bastards in Easy when you know how but its amazing how many people still get stumped by it

[mattrat]

regards to the washer thing, i just did it then lol and just used the socket over the spring and lightly tapped it through..
didnt damage either?

[ENGINR]

If you place the end of a piece of wire on the top of the stud and slide the washer down the wire and manipulate it with a screwdriver you can get them in position.

[Evo-00x]

ARP CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT 207-2501
The large bolt at the front of the crankshaft (inside the harmonic balancer) is 87ft-lbs standard as per workshop manual for EVO and VR4. I have a new ARP packet here with part number 207-2501 which is for both VR4/EVO engines and there is no recommended torque spec listed or instructions with it. Therefore tighten it as per stock workshop manual spec 87ft-lbs.


ARP CAM GEAR BOLTS 107-1002
ARP 107-1002 Mitsubishi 4G63 Pro Series cam sprocket bolts. 2 Bolts Per Package
Rated at 200,000 psi ARP cam bolt kits feature a larger than stock flange diameter for positive timing gear register and a 12 point head design for reduced wrenching during installation and removal

Edited by EVO-00X, 30 June 2012 - 09:53 AM.

[KNGGSR]

im doin a conversion on my gsr, replacing the 1.8 to a vr4 jap spec, was wondering if you have a workshop manuel or sumting similer to get all the torque specs, wiring and basically were all the parts go. or do u no wer i can get a hold of one. thanks

[cblancergsr]

the crank shaft pulley bolt is just FT (fucking tight)

[rob323]

Some Loctite doesn't go astray on that crank shaft bolt either.

[Liberoz]

RT It (Rattle Gunned)

[rob323]

Ive seen some of those bolts where the square drive inside the head has been rounded out by rattle guns. I'd only use it with a socket on the head of the bolt.

[Evo-00x]

I use a big 1/2" drive breaker bar, get a mate to hold it into position, whilst I push on it with my leg. The leg muscles are far stronger than your arm muscles and will do the job no problem

im doin a conversion on my gsr, replacing the 1.8 to a vr4 jap spec, was wondering if you have a workshop manuel or sumting similer to get all the torque specs, wiring and basically were all the parts go. or do u no wer i can get a hold of one. thanks

Look in the Miscellaneous Tech section. There's a sticky full of various Workshop Manuals. Yours will be the 4G93 version under the heading Mitsubishi/Proton 4G91, 4G92, 4G93, 4G94 SOHC & DOHC Engine Manuals

Edited by EVO-00X, 27 October 2008 - 03:40 AM.

[GSR-747]

Rattlegun isnt tight enough, all manufacturers will specify a torque that is much more than a rattle gun can acheive. if you use a little bit of locktite it may be ok.

[OLDIE]

stickied 8)

Nothing is foolproof as fools are very inventive

[bazeng]

FYI guys.

12mm L19 head studs are torqued up to 100 ft lbs with moly and 120 ft lbs with oil...

[Evo-00x]

Good stuff Baz, those ARP L19 headstuds are the best! I'll add the L19 on the spec sheet and put it up sometime.
Oh, can you list the part number please mate.

Edited by EVO-00X, 22 March 2009 - 11:25 AM.

[MADEVO]

what is the sequence??

[EVOISM]

Rattlegun isnt tight enough, all manufacturers will specify a torque that is much more than a rattle gun can acheive. if you use a little bit of locktite it may be ok.

http://buy1.snapon.c...re=&dir=catalog

if u can achieve 1,094nM (working torque in forwards) than ur a better man than I.

I prefer to torque to the manufactures specs.

[soldave]

Quick question on this topic. Have got my ARPs torqued up to 80ft/lbs on my Evo III and the engine has been warmed up for a few times but not run. After I've done about 100km I intend on taking the rocker cover off and retorquing to 80ft/lbs. Should I loosen off each bolt in turn and then retorque completely, or do they just need to be checked that they are at 80ft/lbs without slackening off?

Hope you can tell what I'm getting at.