39 replies to this topic

[WADADLIG_EVO]

Hello all,

This is my first post on the board. I went through 20 pages of threads last night and did not see anything near what I am asking.

I have an E 3 engine built with forged pistons and rods. Its running on a stock E3 ECU with Turbo XS mbc and KN cone airfilter.

My question is...I have a Walboro 255lph fuel pump that can be installed on the car but at what time would that be a necessity? RUnning ported 16G and todate only running stock boost levels. (10-12psi)

I only intend to run around 15psi at the track. Do I need to upgrade the fuel pump for that?

At what PSI would I really be looking to upgrade the pump? Again taking into consideration this is a stock ECU.

WADAD

[CLuTZ]

Hi, and welcome

At the very least, i'd suggest re-wiring your fuel pump directly to your battery, so it gets maximum voltage which = maximum flow out of it, when you need it. Here's a write up which isn't specific to your car, but close:

http://www.plymouthl....com/rewire.htm



If you are only planning on running 15psi, you should be able to get away with it- but no doubt you will get bitten by the bug and want more- so if you're planning more mods in the future, then a 255 l/hr walbro could be worth looking at

[ENGINR]

I'd also look at getting your stock ECU chipped and tuned if you can. Made a HUGE difference to mine.

[WADADLIG_EVO]

Thanks for the replies.

I already have the 255 pump just trying to decide if it is necessary to put in just to run 15psi. This is my daily driver and although I got the motor forged from someone else I can't afford to blow it up.

I'll read up on the fuel pump rewiring but if I go to take it out might as well just drop in the 255.

WADAD

[WADADLIG_EVO]

I'd also look at getting your stock ECU chipped and tuned if you can. Made a HUGE difference to mine.

I have an evo 2 ecu I can probably get remapped. That might be a great idea.

Forgot to mention that the car is 3inch exhaust all the way back.

WADAD

[CLuTZ]

I'd love to see some pics- and some pics of where you live!

Always wanted to go to the Caribbean!


We have another member from Nassau with an EVO 3!

http://4gtuner.com/f...6089&highlight=

[Dean]

to run 15psi you should be fine,
although if u did plan to upp the boost a little u would definitely need to change it.

[WADADLIG_EVO]

I'll post up some pics if you have a show and shine section.

The car is not in as good a shape as when I got it as it is my daily driver and other people have been driving it too. I'm pretty particular about my cars.

Thanks for the replies...

I've had this pump lying around for nearly 6 months now but just can't make up my mind what to do. Since I am not looking to break any records 15psi should be good enough.

The next owner of the car should there be one can test out the limits of the internals.

WADAD

[WADADLIG_EVO]

Well I had some maintenance work done on the car and put in the fuel pump.

I notice that it whines which I expected but when I put on my indicator at traffic lights I notice it whines in time with the indicator signal lights coming on and off.

Does any one else experience this with a Walboro or should I be worried about my electric connections througout the car?

WADAD

[Liberoz]

Did you do the rewiring mod and if so did you run some insolation around all the new wiring? and keep it away from other wiring where you could?

Regarding the whine bro install If you speand a liitle more time on the install you can successfully install one with results being not much louder than stock pump.

Trick is to run a rubber sleeve around the boy of the pump to isolate it from any part of the metal fuel pump cradle if using the hose clamp method.

Normally a walbro is a tiny bit longer in the body than a stock oem pump which requires redrilling the fixing screw hole that holds bottom of fuel pump bracket to the cradle its self.

You will also need to test fit cradle with new pump installed on a couple of times as with the newer longer pump it %99 of the time rests touching the bottom of the fuel tank, after a couple of trial fits with a very slight bend of the cradle you will get it to compleately miss any contact with the fuel tank this also amplifies the sound of vibration from the walbro on the tank.

When i've done a walbro install, Ive also used the old rubber oring from top of oem fuel pump and put this over the out let of the walbro first,
then follow the stock directions this actually provides the new pump with another insulator (rubber oring)to absorb vibrations, the result will be a very close to stock (noise wise) walbro fuel pump install.

Good luck with it.

Well I had some maintenance work done on the car and put in the fuel pump.

I notice that it whines which I expected but when I put on my indicator at traffic lights I notice it whines in time with the indicator signal lights coming on and off.

Does any one else experience this with a Walboro or should I be worried about my electric connections througout the car?

WADAD

[jase]

At the very least, i'd suggest re-wiring your fuel pump directly to your battery, so it gets maximum voltage which = maximum flow out of it, when you need it.

And as an added benefit, you can chuck a kill switch in that for extra security.

[WADADLIG_EVO]

Ok....

I installed the oring and there was a little rubber grommet also in the fuel pump assembly that was put back in along with the oring.

I haven't had the chance to rewire the fuel pump but thought the upgraded pump would take care of any extra fuel needs.

Lastly, when installing the pump we did not use the cradle but a clamp instead. The pump seemed a bit too long to use the cradle and not only that but the fuel strainer was facing the opposite direction disallowing the cradle to be used in conjunction with the strainer.

This now means that the strainer is now located directly beneath the fuel return line.

Its not installing like any pictures I have seen but I did get this out of an evo 3 however I don't remember them using a strainer when we removed it.

WADAD

[Liberoz]

Owhen installing the pump we did not use the cradle but a clamp instead.

WADAD

Using the clamp method will make it whine its guts out till you end up so pissed off at the noise that you do it the way I suggested above "Isolating the pump from cradle"

You'll learn

[WADADLIG_EVO]

Owhen installing the pump we did not use the cradle but a clamp instead.

WADAD

Using the clamp method will make it whine its guts out till you end up so pissed off at the noise that you do it the way I suggested above "Isolating the pump from cradle"

You'll learn

Ok...well that makes sense so far.

Any tips on why the whine pitch dips when I put on my indicator lights?

WADAD

[Liberoz]

Natural really other relays are useing the power supply hence slight voltage drop resulting in change of whine from your whine bro install.

[WADADLIG_EVO]

Last question,

Does any one know how much that affects flow? Or if it affects it much at all?

I guess I'll have to do the rewire so I don't have to worry about it any more.

WADAD

[Liberoz]

Last question,

Does any one know how much that affects flow? ???

Or if it affects it much at all? ????
I guess I'll have to do the rewire so I don't have to worry about it any more.

WADAD

Doing the rewire for fuel pump is an option really depending on the build of your motor what your aming for, If you have done your internals & running big boost I'd do it ...if running stock engine and BC I wouldn't bother as you probably wouldn't even notice.

[WADADLIG_EVO]

Last question,

Does any one know how much that affects flow? ???

Or if it affects it much at all? ????
I guess I'll have to do the rewire so I don't have to worry about it any more.

WADAD

Doing the rewire for fuel pump is an option really depending on the build of your motor what your aming for, If you have done your internals & running big boost I'd do it ...if running stock engine and BC I wouldn't bother as you probably wouldn't even notice.

I'm running an engine with forged pistons and rods.

On 11-12psi spikes I ran a 13.5@101.

Looking to turn up some boost and run atleast a 12.9.
I think I have seen tuned cars run 12.5 and lower on 17psi.

Oh and this is a ported Big 16G.

I plan to leave it daily driven at 10psi but want to set a race time that is worthy of the cars internals.

WADAD

[Liberoz]

With a good tune (or chip) if using factory ecu you can run up to 1.5 bar approx low 20's in psi on those internals.

On your advise on the engines build definitely do it as it will make a difference, I'd also advise to look at bigger injectors as you will be maxing out the injector duration (capabilities) presuming you have 510 evo injectors I nice step up is a set of 560's out of a E4 or 5 from memory or go some 600�s that will give you way more head room when the power figures get right up there.

From my own personal experience with my motor I'm running 24psi on the track and that�s right on the borderline of the injector�s capabilities.
My ecu is chipped and has been tuned to run this though.
If you don�t have access to someone locally to do a chip and your not running aftermarket ecu I'd suggest a Apexi SAFC so you can control the extra fuel needed when running the big boost with fuel pump rewire and bigger injectors when doing the times.

[WADADLIG_EVO]

Great tips...

Thanks alot for the help. I'll definitely try what you have suggested. I have an old HKS AFR that might work as well. That is like an AFC but I will need to get it installed after sourcing the injectors.

WADAD