18 replies to this topic

[S15ETA]

hopefully theres someone here that has experience with some thing like this :?
1.when i do an oil change and put on a new filter and oil and then crank to get pressure(i always do this to be safe)the fukin thing wont get pressure! i have tried everything, it just wont suk it up! ive tried crankin taking off the filter and crankin again to release air and everything! the only way i can get oil pressure is if i put 11 litres of oil in and crank it and then it gets pressure, obviously cos its drowned the pump in oil and it has no choice but to get pressure! then dump 6 litres out and then its right till the next time....(incase ur wondering , yes i kept the turbo primed)

2.i have installed an oil pressure guage in the evo but its a cheapo i must say....ive noticed when the car is up to temp, on idle the pressure is very low, like at 0 but then other times it would read 8psi, 2000rpm would vary too it could be 40 psi and another day itll be 20psi :shock: BUT the red oil light on the dash never flashes , its just very irratic ay

ive had the sump off .....replaced the pik up outta a evo9 new gasket on the pick up (with sealer to be safe) also hit out the sump cos it did have a dent in the bottom.....this has me fukd......anyone have any thoughts????

ps.sorted out the tune after the dyno day and it pulled 222.3 on springys dyno

[CLuTZ]

This is from VFAQ:

Hot idle= 10-20psi
Cold Idle= up to 100psi
Cruising= 70 - 90psi


I reckon your gauge could be telling you lies.


I felt GSRSOL's 205kw (IIRC) and felt REALLY good. I can only imagine how good an extra 20kw would feel. You must be happy! Go put it on the russel performance dyno- you might crack 300kw!! 8)

[to4garret]

hey mate,

when ever i change i my oil i cant prime the pump using the normal method of cranking the engine till i get pressure. i dont know why, but what i have gotten used too doing is removing the stock low oil pressure switch and using a vacuum source (manual air bed inflator) to suck the oil from the sump through the oil pump. after that the pressure is built in a few cranks and all is good.

i always put it down to having a ported oil pressure relief valve, but i see a few other people around every know and then having the same issue.

mitsi's do run a positive displacement oil pump, which is specifically designed to pump oil, if the pump runs dry, i.e. after a oil change, it cant generate enough vacuum at cranking speed to suck the new oil from the sump and build oil pressure. hence why i tend to suck the new oil through the pump after a change.

im not sure if its cause my pump is worn (doubt it) or its just one of those things a few cars do.

now with your oil pressure gauge, where have you plumbed it in? if its in the head, the pressure will read lower than if it was plumbed in down by the low oil pressure switch, which is near the oil filter by the way.

[S15ETA]

its plumbed into the oil filter housing.....what got me today i was driving and i gave it a bootful up to 6500rpm but it never went over 40 psi.....im no expert but thats low! ive done a bit of reading on those relief valves, u think its possible its sticking at a certain points in the rev range?

[to4garret]

sticking open maybe, but that would be very strange...

even at 3000rpm mine is over 80psi and my sender is plumbed into the filter housing as well.

what weight oil are you running, i currently use castrol GTX3, i think from memory its a 20w-50w, or a 15w-50w, but yea... thats a bit low.

[S15ETA]

i run magnatec 10w-40.......sounds like a bit thin ay

[JayRome]

its plumbed into the oil filter housing.....what got me today i was driving and i gave it a bootful up to 6500rpm but it never went over 40 psi.....im no expert but thats low! ive done a bit of reading on those relief valves, u think its possible its sticking at a certain points in the rev range?

change the gauge sending unit!

i have had my share of electronic oil press units cheap and expensive, and most of the cheap ones have shat there sending units after 5 months or so but the mech ones always stay accurate as possible even when el cheapo...

just to be on the safe side, there should be a sending unit from Autobarn for the drift series gauges for $30 ish.........

or upgrade to a proper one.... i would never rely on an el cheapo gauge for the health of my engine....

[bazeng]

Harry,

222 kw's?.. nice one mate!

As for the oil pressure... the 4g63's in my opinion are very strange...

My experiences:

Stock ASPEC - I used to get 100+psi on my pressure gauge at cold start and full revs.... regardless on oil (I used to use 5w-50, 10w-40, 15w-40)
It seems to be a common thing for our motors to get extremely high pressures..

As for cranking pressure, I cant tell you, I normally fire it right up after a change and the gauge pressure flies right up there also..

Idle back when it was stock used to give my abour 15psi of pressure.. and 100psi+ at around 7000rpm...

Now, I have a ported oil filter housing with an external oil filter relocation and cooler kit.. I have a moroso sump and about 1 - 2 litres of additional capacity in the total system.

As for oil, I now use a 0w-30 oil and I get about 7psi of oil pressure at idle, about 15psi at cold start (this is measured at the head close to the turbo feed)

We measured at the oilfter filter housing to be safe and it was reading high as usual (about 70psi at cold start).

Question 1: Where is your gauge sender installed? at the head or at the oilf filter housing?

Question 2: Have you tried starting it up after an oil change and seeing what pressure your gauge shows?

What I normally do is crank it over with the oil cap removed and just make sure oil is getting to the head, because if it is getting to the head, the crank and other bits will be getting it for sure..

It may simply be an issue with the oil pump not moving the oil fast enough to get a pressure reading on the gauge..

[S15ETA]

Harry,

222 kw's?.. nice one mate!

As for the oil pressure... the 4g63's in my opinion are very strange...

My experiences:

Stock ASPEC - I used to get 100+psi on my pressure gauge at cold start and full revs.... regardless on oil (I used to use 5w-50, 10w-40, 15w-40)
It seems to be a common thing for our motors to get extremely high pressures..

As for cranking pressure, I cant tell you, I normally fire it right up after a change and the gauge pressure flies right up there also..

Idle back when it was stock used to give my abour 15psi of pressure.. and 100psi+ at around 7000rpm...

Now, I have a ported oil filter housing with an external oil filter relocation and cooler kit.. I have a moroso sump and about 1 - 2 litres of additional capacity in the total system.

As for oil, I now use a 0w-30 oil and I get about 7psi of oil pressure at idle, about 15psi at cold start (this is measured at the head close to the turbo feed)

We measured at the oilfter filter housing to be safe and it was reading high as usual (about 70psi at cold start).

Question 1: Where is your gauge sender installed? at the head or at the oilf filter housing?

Question 2: Have you tried starting it up after an oil change and seeing what pressure your gauge shows?

What I normally do is crank it over with the oil cap removed and just make sure oil is getting to the head, because if it is getting to the head, the crank and other bits will be getting it for sure..

It may simply be an issue with the oil pump not moving the oil fast enough to get a pressure reading on the gauge..

yehguage is at the oil filter and at hot idle its fuk all.....it reads 0 but the oil light never comes.....as for the oil change.....if i put 5 litres of oil and crank it....i get nothing.....unless i put in another 6 litres first and have the pump submerged in oil which tells me it could a leak off the oil pump.....but i could be wrong baz :?

[shadow]

After you've filled the engine up with oil, try cranking it over a few times, then remove the screw in the head at the front left side of the motor (looking at it from the front of the vehicle).

Get someone to watch for oil to start spitting out as you crank it over again.

This will let you know you have oil pressure, and that the head will be lubricated.

As for the gauge, yeah don't use cheap ones for this sorta thing. I know after my rebuild i'm paranoid, and will definately be buying Autometer gauges at the very least.

[Jonson]

I've never had a problem. I have never once in my 4 years in apprenticeship and now qualified with either customer car or my own car primed the oil after doin a change.

The bearings will still have a layer of oil on them, the oil pump will still have some oil in it if you drain the sump. If you start the car up, there are no noises and you just mdae 222kw atw then I would take a stab and say your oil pressure is fine and its either your gauge or your sender.

If your oil pressure was low, then your factory light would illuminate.

[Liberoz]

.if i put 5 litres of oil and crank it....i get nothing.....unless i put in another 6 litres first and have the pump submerged in oil which tells me it could a leak off the oil pump.....but i could be wrong baz :?

When was the last time you checked your transfer case fluid? had similar issue but no as severe with evo6 seals were gone in transfer case galleys.

[mattrat]

same as jon said, i have neither ever primed it after an oil change, only on the rebuilt engine i did..

[S15ETA]

what would my transfer case have to do with it? i replaced all driveline oils 20,000 kms ago when i replaced my clutch.....but yeh alot of mechanics i ask look at me and shrug their shoulders, even techsport dont really have a clue cos they cant imagine the oil pump shitin itself.....except for daniel at springy he says it happens shit like this happens to rb motors its rare but it does happen

[Jonson]

Oil pumps do eventually get excessive clearance between gears, which will lower the oil pressure created....but it takes a long time to happen. If in doubt replace the Oil pump. I replaced it when I biult my engine, was only like $220 delivered. Its a big piece of mind thing too.

[S15ETA]

thats a fair price.....where did u get it from mate?

[S15ETA]

ive been doin some reading and while the oil pump is out im thinking of deleting the balance shafts....anyone done this? would like to have some feedback on this

[marinetowing]

http://www.vfaq.com/...nce-shafts.html

not sure if this still applies to your engine? thanks to 3zercrowd for the link its interesting reading!

[vandrake10]

hopefully theres someone here that has experience with some thing like this :?
1.when i do an oil change and put on a new filter and oil and then crank to get pressure(i always do this to be safe)the fukin thing wont get pressure! i have tried everything, it just wont suk it up! ive tried crankin taking off the filter and crankin again to release air and everything! the only way i can get oil pressure is if i put 11 litres of oil in and crank it and then it gets pressure, obviously cos its drowned the pump in oil and it has no choice but to get pressure! then dump 6 litres out and then its right till the next time....(incase ur wondering , yes i kept the turbo primed)

2.i have installed an oil pressure guage in the evo but its a cheapo i must say....ive noticed when the car is up to temp, on idle the pressure is very low, like at 0 but then other times it would read 8psi, 2000rpm would vary too it could be 40 psi and another day itll be 20psi :shock: BUT the red oil light on the dash never flashes , its just very irratic ay

ive had the sump off .....replaced the pik up outta a evo9 new gasket on the pick up (with sealer to be safe) also hit out the sump cos it did have a dent in the bottom.....this has me fukd......anyone have any thoughts????

ps.sorted out the tune after the dyno day and it pulled 222.3 on springys dyno

Could you fix it ? I have the same issue , when the engine heats up, the pressure is 0 psi for 800 RPM. I have a a mitsubishi RVR sport gear x3 engine 4g63.