114 replies to this topic

[TRQ-STR]

Thanks for the kind comments guys......... and its update time!

 

 

I pulled my block out of storage and decided to do some work on it this week. 

 

Began by cleaning the oil pump then ensuring both the drive and driven gear side clearances were within spec.

 

Then reassembled the oil pump with a genuine stubby shaft to eliminate the balance shafts

 

Installed genuine Mitsubishi NOK seals and gaskets. 

 

For those of you interested, here are all the part numbers for the individual gaskets included in my kit.

 

When balance shafts are removed, it is important to re-install the balance shaft bearings at an orientation to block the oil galleries. 

This restriction is required for the oil system to maintain pressure that would otherwise be dangerously dissipated with the shafts removed.

 

When balance shafts are removed on first gen 63's, the downside is undesirable excessive oil pressure. 

I have seen oil pressures at over 120psi and this (from experience) has caused to seals to blow out and leak oil.

The issue occurs as the outlet for the oil pressure relief valve (on the oil filter housing) is not large enough to operate sufficiently with the increased rate of change in oil pressure. 

The pictures below show how to rectify the issue. 

 

 

Note that the size and shape of the porting is important. There is no need for the outlet to be larger than the inlet and the shape must be so that the top of the piston valve seals when the valve is shut. 

The best way to do this is to port a D shape and widen the hole, this minimises the distance that the piston needs to travel and relieves more pressure sooner.

Edited by TRQ-STR, 16 April 2014 - 02:23 PM.

[bazeng]

Looking good!

What are you doing to the sub frame anyway?

[bazeng]

Simply strengthening it?

Just awd the thing!

[edrag]

in cab hi-ratio switch what is this and how do I get one lol

[TRQ-STR]

Three angle valve job complete (both intake and exhaust) for the Ferrea comp valves.

 

 

ARP head studs installed after running a tap to clean the threads in the block.  They were toqued to 90 ft.lb. 

The 1.3mm ACL race head gasket was used as the pistons protruded .35mm above deck, resulting in .95mm (.037") quench.

 

Brian Crower valve springs with titanium retainers installed

 

3g lifters, rollers, GSC cams and gears installed.

 

Exhaust ports after all the hard work with the Dremel

[TRQ-STR]

Evo 8 squirters installed, these completely clear the wiseco wrist pin bosses without modification.

 

Oil screen modified to work with the ARP main studs.

 

Bottom end complete and ready for the sump to be installed.

 

Decided to use an Aus spec manifold as it eliminates two gaskets over the Jap version. Also cleaned it up for a better appearance.

 

EGR completely eliminated, this way it clears up clutter in the bay and doesn't arise suspicion from the authorities.

 

Sump modified to eliminate the use of the stupid return pipe gasket.

 

Removed the FP advertisement boss from the manifold for a stock appearing race manifold.

Then a coat of high temp paint to protect from rust.

[GSRSOL]

just read all of this, looks mega.... lots of nice pics make for a good build thread too - keep up the good work

[TRQ-STR]

Simply strengthening it?

Just awd the thing!

Yep, had a few cracks with the last setup so the front end definitely needed strengthening. As for AWD, it is a dream but will not even consider it for a few years.

 

in cab hi-ratio switch what is this and how do I get one lol

Fifth gear on the cordia gearbox is simply an overdrive of fourth on the input shaft. Grounding the correct wire on the vac solenoid that operates the diaphragm (at the back of the gearbox), can overdrive all 4 physical gears. With the mod complete you have the original four gears, then with the flick of a switch ( clutch held in of course) those four gears are over driven to have longer ratios.  

 

just read all of this, looks mega.... lots of nice pics make for a good build thread too - keep up the good work

Thanks Dan, the SLR definitely helps with the pics.

 

Should have a build video on Youtube when all of this is complete.

[TRQ-STR]

As can be seen, the Kando exhaust housing could do with some work to better boost control.

 

Intake and exhaust manifolds installed 

 

 

Some may have noticed I was trying to make do with the wrong waterpump. I got close but gave up as I did not want to hack the timing cover.

 

 

Oil cooler bypass to prime engine prior to timing belt install. Cordless drills are great for this!  

 

Timing belt installed

 

 

 

Alternator relocation hardware and how it looks installed

 

Hyundai timing covers have two rings around where the balancer sits. These foul the fluidampr and therefore need to be removed. ( I am aware of the additional "the" in the pic, but cbf fixing it!)

 

 

Standard bots are plenty long enough..... so it seems I have the revised balancer. 

 

 

Removed 220g off the rotating mass by replacing the power steering pulley with under 1g worth of washers.

 

Engine porn

[TRQ-STR]

The Kando exhaust housing comes with a 34mm wastegate flap but has provisions for up to 37mm. Since the larger turbo will not need to flow as much exhaust gas around the turbine wheel, the 34mm flap should be sufficient for this build.

Entrance has been contoured to allow a less abrupt flow out the gate. 

Gate ported to 30mm

Dodgy leak test passed with 4mm (diameter) to seal.

New genuine turbo to manifold hardware

Installed and awaiting water pipe mod to clear compressor housing. 

[GSRSOL]

sweeeeet. getting there

[TRQ-STR]

 After taking heaps of photos of the build over the last week, I lost everything after formatting the micro sd, luckily I had some pictures on the SLR also! 

 

Tig'd larger breathers to the valve cover on my buildpro table, makes things like this a walk in the park.

 

 

 

Dodgy panel beaters make me sick..... I had to replace this section since It was a clusterfuck of unfused welds and rust that chipped off with a light tap, lol.

 

Got me some Buddyclub P1's

 

Cleaned the HVAC unit and replaced the 30y/o foam

 

 

 

Sprayed the valve cover in charcoal grey using 2pack 

 

Subframes, caster rods, shift linkages and booster have all been bare metal sprayed. Sandblasting saved me from days of sanding, unfortunately all pics lost.

Parts were sprayed in solid black using automotive paint for durability.

 

 

 

.

Edited by TRQ-STR, 16 November 2015 - 07:34 AM.

[(2much)]

Awesome build... Wish I had motivation, and cash..

[bazeng]

Oh yeah!!! Nice!!

[BYBY5L]

Lovin the details man, engine looks alot simpler than before, doent really hint to much of whats hidden inside
and I fuckin love that table, I'm on my L plates when it comes to welding but that table would be awesome to help, I think I need one too now

[jack be nimble]

This is looking good. Nice work.

[TRQ-STR]

Thanks for the kind comments guys,

 

 

Lovin the details man, engine looks alot simpler than before, doent really hint to much of whats hidden inside
and I fuckin love that table, I'm on my L plates when it comes to welding but that table would be awesome to help, I think I need one too now

If you need one, I'm the best hookup in Melbourne. Shoot me a PM!

 

 

Engine is finally in!!!

 

 

[bazeng]

Whats next on the list?

[VIN18M]

Looks nice, nothing more satisfying than cleaning, refurbishing, painting and refitting gear - I love it.

 

What turbo are you running? Is that the 20g with the 3" compressor cover? Also notice you're running an internal gate, have you come up with a solution to the actuator bracket that comes with the Kinugawa turbo's?

[TRQ-STR]

Looks nice, nothing more satisfying than cleaning, refurbishing, painting and refitting gear - I love it.

 

What turbo are you running? Is that the 20g with the 3" compressor cover? Also notice you're running an internal gate, have you come up with a solution to the actuator bracket that comes with the Kinugawa turbo's?

Turbo is a td06sl2-25g. As for the waste gate bracket, i will probably use the cnc mill at work to make one out of carbon steel. 

 

 

Alternator clearance with relocation kit

 

On the left we have an Evo 8 booster and on the right is the old evo 2

 

It was a lot of work to make this fit, I do not recommend fitting these in cordias. Just take a look at the throttle and speedo cables 

 

New Koyo bearings, seals and studs in my hub assembly 

 

 

Cleaned up the control arms and regreased the ball joints

 

Could not get superpro bushes for the cordia since they are on back order, so I made my own.

 

 

Control arms complete

 

Evo 8 brake master with 1 1/16" bore and a cordia clutch master that dad had in storage for 20 years (resealed it anyway)

 

15mm turbo drain.