114 replies to this topic

[TRQ-STR]

Thanks everyone for the kind words,

 

It has been far too long, no more stuffing around, time to get her done.

 

Big thanks to Andrew for hooking me up with some hard to find parts. As a result, the shifter assembly has been rebuilt with new insulator and pivot bush. While I was at it, below the pivot was extended 15mm to shorten the throw. The difference is amazing!

 

 

Dump and front pipe complete

 

 

 

 

 

Arp extended wheel studs installed

 

 

 

 

Before and after

 

 

 

Steering rack rebuilt with genuine NOK seals

 

 

 

Change of plans with the heat exchange for the a2w setup. The new setup will be this aluminium MK2 golf radiator with custom end tanks. More on this later.

 

 

Custom made tray to mount the Yellow Top Optima (D51R Prius version) below the coolant over flow bottle.

First attempt was ok but the corner radius edges on revision two are so much nicer.

 

 

 

 

 

Rebuilt the throttle body and made a new throttle adapter

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sard 800cc Injectors

 

 

Rear muffler tips have been extended to sit flush with the bumper. Also went for a brushed look over polished

[TRQ-STR]

New brake setup: DBA Evo 4 T3 rotors front and DBA Magna Tp sedan rear. Fronts to be re drilled to 4 stud.

 

 

 

New coils with custom made mount using 304 SS rods and 6060 Aluminium spacers.

 

 

 

[BYBY5L]

Things looking awesome man, cant be long now, Maybe the next meet up?

Also, what coils are they?

[TRQ-STR]

Yea I’ll be at the next meet, not the first time I’ve said this though, haha.

 

Coils are IGN-1A marine coils, the highest output non CDI setup I could come up with that didn’t cost a fortune. They do not self-discharge like the LQ9 coils when pushed to the limit and offer a much stronger spark.

Downsides are they occupy a lot of space (heavy too) and as a result I am unsure where to mount them, been thinking under the intake manifold.  

[BYBY5L]

Haha, I know the feeling
They look the business though, how do the 5 pins wire up? I'd be keen to try them if I dont go cdi,
Either way mr Coray, I cannot wait to see this, even if I have to walk to the meet, this thing is farrrkin choooice bro

[TRQ-STR]

Big thanks to Andrew and Pete who have been very helpful with tech talk via PM and a parts. Seriously guys, your help keeps the build going and I really appreciate it!

 

Finally found somewhere to fit these big ass coils, here they are mocked up on a spare manifold.

 

Been busy wiring up the ecu, more pics soon.

 

I've decided to upgrade the A2W heat exchanger from the MK2 golf radiator to this VN commodore unit to increase the thermal capacity of the system. With my car in its current configuration this is the largest core I am able to fit.

 

Cutting through the fin stack to correct the height.

   

 

I thought this would be enough, but no........

 

I had to take it back this far.... which made for some of the trickiest welding I have done to date. The core had to be insulated for protection from the arc.

 

End tanks mocked up, 

 

Here is a comparison between the two cores,

 

Removed the fuel tank to find the most putrid smell I have ever experienced, the old fuel had vanished and ruined the tank. Thinners, brake cleaner and industrial degreaser get laughed at by this stuff.

 

Pete to the rescue with this replacement tank which I cleaned inside and out then gave a lick of paint. I also made a mount for the bosch 044 pump. 

 

Much more to come.

Edited by TRQ-STR, 23 November 2017 - 01:37 PM.

[ENGINR]

Nice work

[GSRVR]

The quality of work here never ceases to amaze. Great work man, I've been anticipating an update on this build!

[TRQ-STR]

Big update,

 

My old man had this fuel sender in storage for 20+ years, I cleaned her up and fitted a genuine filter I sourced on Amayama.

 

Fuel setup complete using -10 suction and -6 feed lines. I have plans for a much more serious fuel setup but this will do for now, I just want to drive her at this time. 

 

Coil packs complete, this mount is to position them under the intake manifold and out of the way. Manifold support bracket has been removed.

 

 

Brakes and clutch are finally complete!

 

Custom hand brake lines, to correct the length.

 

Brake master resealed and installed.

 

Braided lines throughout, all custom made.

 

Calipers sandblasted and rebuilt,

 

After searching a dozen or so 2005-2006 outlanders for these magical unicorn brake brackets, I finally settled on the febest variant on ebay. Upon Initial inspection they looked well cast (and they are) however, when you dig deeper the cost cutting starts to show (the casting sand had not been cleaned out of the slide pin bores). Sand blasting, sanding with a homemade flap wheel and brake cleaning is what it tool to get the bore clean, not the way to sell brand new products IMO. Anyhow, here they are fitted.

 

 

Onto the intercooler, I was never really happy with it so I cut off the endtanks and made my own.

 

Milling right down to the core,

 

Here are the frozen boost air side tanks, 3.5” flanges cut off, milled flat then finished with a brushed look, ready for welding.

 

Here we have some 6061 which I turned into the new 2.75” end tanks, a much more appropriate size for this build. 

 

[TRQ-STR]

Here is the evo3 radiator I purchased, the welds weren’t great and the dimensions are all wrong. Luckily the core was the right size, here we go again cutting things up, haha.

 

Here are the 1.6mm wall end tanks I made, fit up is spot on

 

Welded the filler neck from the inside for a cleaner look, had to apply a heat sink to manage the heat as the filler neck is much thicker than the sheet.

 

 

Here we have the Idle control, the water side of things is rubbish and has to go. These are assembled with Pa66 parts on the inside which are supposed to be adjustable. Being 20+ years old the plastic is mostly seized on the internal thread and brittle. Here is my solution.

 

Machined out the treads and all the broken plastic which was fused to it.

 

3 of these 6 slugs are to block off the remaining holes, more on this later.

 

 

Here are some shots I took while making adjustments to the suspension. What I’ve done here is install the front coilovers without the springs then fit the wheels to the car. Using a jack, I carefully lift each wheel to consume all suspension travel (~4” at front) and make adjustments to the lower clevis as needed. The purpose of this is to set the position of the wheel relative to the body (in the bottomed out position) and prevent the tyres from making contact with the body. Ride height is altered via adjustments to the lower spring perch, as a result of this, the lower the car goes the less suspension travel it will have.

 

 

I got myself a small 12x36 Taiwanese lathe for home, It’s such a baby compared to the 1971 20x40 Takisawa I’ve got locked away waiting for me to open up a shop. Initially planned to get her going with an RPC, yea……not my brightest moment.

 

Anyway, here she is turning 304 SS at 400mm between centres down to 1.25mm wall. 0.05mm over 400mm is accurate enough for home in my books.

 

 

Also got myself a bead roller capable of rolling 1.6mm SS, no more welding beads!

 

 

 

Some work in progress shots.

[ENGINR]

Fricking MINT work mate. Very jealous! Would love to have that sort of equipment and the skills to use it properly.

[bitza]

Great work Koray.........can't wait to see this finished.

[TRQ-STR]

Thanks guys!

 

Turbo was removed to reposition the coolant feed and return lines to the lower galleries, this keeps them clear of heat from the manifold and rear housing while remaining short and out of the way. The speedflow fittings have just enough room, I’m happy with how the lines turned out.

 

While the turbo was out, it made sense to start on the new water pipe while I had access to the area (the stock pipe had clearance issues with the larger compressor housing). This became more difficult when I found 35mm SS tube was not really available in Aus, the quickest option was to make my own, this can be seen on the lathe in my last post. Anyhow this is what I’ve come up with…..the new water pipe clears the compressor housing, is made of SS and allows for a 6an return line, dimensions are 34.5x1.2mm.

 

Fuel rail modified with a weld in 6an bung, this removes the restriction in the factory Galant line.

 

A few shots I took while welding the radiator, 

 

Here are some bungs I made on the lathe, the large M10x1.25 is the radiator drain while the 3 M6x1.0 bungs will be used as grounding points to eliminate stray current corrosion on the aluminium heat exchangers.   

 

The power circuit is all 2awg and wired as follows:

Positive -

Battery > Alternator > Starter > Factory ignition loom (all piggybacked) 

Ground -

Battery > Chassis, Battery > Block, Block > Chassis. 

Here’s a shot of the electrically busy side of the bay, the ecu loom is broken down into individual circuits and looks basass!

 

Custom made MSD ignition leads

 

With the injection, ignition and fuel sorted, I set the trigger angle and got the engine started. Just had to play around with the ecu as the electrical side of things is no longer compatible with the vr4 basemap or pinout config. It was so nice to finally hear the exhaust after all the hard work, as a bonus it sounds so damn sweet! 

 

Thus far everything is mechanically sound and the engine is ready for the dyno, much more to come.

[GSRVR]

Just awesome.

[evo-gsr]

Nice work mate. And excellent attention to detail.