26 replies to this topic

[GSRONP]

im doing (almost complete) conversion from my 1992 gsr to a vr4 2ltr 91 motor.

ive got the vr4 motor in and everything all good BUT i have the gsr loom with evo 1 ecu. and the gsr plugs dont fit up to alot of the vr4 ones.

ive been told i need to swap over all the sensors and things like that.

is it possible anyone would no an exact list of what i need to swap over??

help would be so EXTREMELY awesome as ive been stuck at this point for ages.

ive gone through the 2ltr thread and read about re wiring it and i asked a sparky about it and he laughed at me and said it would never work.

PLEASE
and advice or knowledge would be so awesome!!

Thanks heaps,
Ben.

[GSRONP]

the set up is,
vr4 91 engine (non evo vr4)
gsr gearbox
td05h 20g turbo.
evo 1 chipped ecu
gsr wiring loom
evo 3 yellow top 510cc injectors.
evo 2 air flow meter.
vr4 intake manifold
all custom intercooler piping + dsr intercooler.
locked center diff to run permanent REAR WHEEL DRIVE!!! =P
turbosmart 38mm wastegate. (currently takin off for warrent purposes)
standerd actuator in there at the moment.
standed gsr fuel pump ( should i upgrade this ??)

cant think of the rest right now will upload pics soon.
help would be soooo appreciated.

[FRANK-E]

up grading the fuel pump is a must and send EVO 00X a pm he myt be able to help u out with the wiring issues

[GSRONP]

can i upgrade to the evo 3 or should i not bother and go straight with a intank walbro???
anything else i need to upgrade?

[BMGTZ]

fuel pump ....go straight to a walbro.

Im not 100% on the rest but have in the shed a gsr and a VR4 engine side by side...and I have an evo 2 engine in my gsr. mate I will look to see what has to be changed

[CLuTZ]

Which sensors are you having trobles with exactly?

Did you read this post in the conversion thread?

HOW TO CONVERT FROM 4G93T to 4G63T

Get an Evo 1-3 left front drive shaft, the drive shaft mounts to the back of the engine and the mount is different to the GSR.

You need an Evo 1-3 engine mount , note there are 2 pieces to it, the part that mounts on the block and the part that mounts to the car, you will need both. This will eliminate having to cut the VR4 mount and also the wrap around in the front of the engine. You will also need to grind some material off the bottom of the mount, the part that attaches to the car as it will stop the water pump pulley turning!! Also need evo plastic cover, the evo engine mount sits through the cover at a different place. Can use VR4 one, but you will need to cut it.

If using the VR4 engine the throttle body wires need rewiring. The colours are Green/Black to Black, Green/Red to Green/Red, Green/White to Green/White and the Yellow/Red wire is left unconnected (unconfirmed). If using EVO engine it doesnt need rewiring.

If its a VR4 engine the Cam/Crank angle sensor will need to be rewired, totally different plugs. These are the colours that go together, red to red, white to white, black to large black, yellow to small black. Only Evo 0 VR4 engines have the same style cam/crank angle sensor as the Evo and GSR, so no rewire required.

Use the upper VR4 radiator hose, just cut a bit off it to shorten. As for the bottom hose, I cut a GSR one and joined it up. An evo one may fit, but I went cheap. I have found there are different places that the radiator hose exits on engines, so this will also depend on which way your engine is.

The VR4 coil packs will also not plug in, just use the GSR ones and plug them straight in, just run the leads to the plug as indicated on the mounting plate for the coils, same as GSR anyway. Also use GSR ignitor.

Alternator wires will need to be lengthened, this is a piece of cake. I tried making up a custom mount for the alternator on the opposite side of the engine to sit where the A/c pump use to, but in the end I found the area too tight to work in with the engine in the car, so gave up. If you go this way, make sure the alternator is mounted as close to the engine as possible, or else you will run into clearance problems with the chassis as what happened to me (there are alternator relocation kits for 4G63's on EBay in America)

The exhaust will need to be lengthened slightly due to the longer stroke of the 2l, making the manifold sit higher.

Use the VR4 or EVO flywheel, clutch and pressure plate and starter.
This guide assuming your using the GSR gearbox.

Also, if your not gonna have the aircon pump and bracket on the back of the block, you need an 8mm spacer between the block and the hanger on an Evo half shaft, or block and one of the bolt holes on the VR4 hanger (it sits in a slightly different place). If you are gonna use aircom. the aircon wiring and hoses will need to be redone and regassed at your local aircon dealer to suit the 4G63T.

[Evo-00x]

Yeah, read all 3 pages in the DIY GSR to 4G63T section... that's why its there for so we dont have to write it all out again lol Heres the link: http://4gtuner.com/s...read.php?t=3492

[GSRONP]

i no aye but in those threads u say all needs to be done is wiring when im being told i need to swap everything. cam angle sensor fuel sensor etc.

[Liberoz]

i no aye but in those threads u say all needs to be done is wiring when im being told i need to swap everything. cam angle sensor fuel sensor etc.

You'll need to swap as many sensors over from the gsr that will fit and serve same purpose in the 2ltr engine those that dont? swap them over to evo/gsr plugs or sensors.
The gsr can do it its just a pain in the ass doing a 6bolt vr4 63 into a gsr, evo 1-3 would have been a walk in the park not as much shiite to swap over and in.

[Evo-00x]

Hey mate, if you look on page 2 of the DIY at dot point number 9 in regard to your crank angle sensor wiring and making it mate to your GSR loom you will find that you dont need to change the VR4 CAS!

What do you mean by the fuel sensor?

If the DIY doesnt answer 100% everything you need to know for your 4G63T conversion then its pretty damn close to it as there's plenty of info there to near finish the job. You'll learn a lot about your own car whilst doing it and if there is anything small you need to sort out at the end (for example you might have a different water temp sensor or something that has been replaced in the last 15 years or so and a plug doesnt match up), then you can cross that bridge at the end of the conversion as it should only be a minor thing to take of. It may or may not also be the case, but some GSR owners have reported a problem with the switching of the radiator fans when using an EVO ECU, but I havent experienced it before so cant help you on that one.

Edited by EVO-00X, 04 October 2008 - 05:49 PM.

[Evo-00x]

Hey mate, if you look on page 2 of the DIY at dot point number 9 in regard to your crank angle sensor wiring and making it mate to your GSR loom you will find that you dont need to change the VR4 CAS!

What do you mean by the fuel sensor?

If the DIY doesnt answer 100% everything you need to know for your 4G63T conversion then its pretty damn close to it as there's plenty of info there to near finish the job. You'll learn a lot about your own car whilst doing it and if there is anything small you need to sort out at the end (for example you might have a different water temp sensor or something that has been replaced in the last 15 years or so and a plug doesnt match up), then you can cross that bridge at the end of the conversion as it should only be a minor thing to take of. It may or may not also be the case, but some GSR owners have reported a problem with the switching of the radiator fans when using an EVO ECU, but I havent experienced it before so I cant help you on that one.

If someone has experienced that problem in the past it would be good to know what you did to overcome it and then add it to the DIY section.

[GSRONP]

on monday i will re wire the vr4 CAS and see how that goes. but a guy that does conversions for a living has told me it wont run properly and i need to swap everything to evo 1-3 or to get rid of the gsr loom and go vr4 loom and vr4 ecu.

just the thing im after is has anyone done this conversion with evo ecu gsr loom and vr4 ignition points and sensors etc.


also.. what should be upgraded along with putting a wastegate in, and do you have to get it tuned as i was just going to bolt it straight on and put a screamer pipe and vacuum line back to intake

im a bit hung over so sorry if some of this doesnt make sense lol.

[CLuTZ]

on monday i will re wire the vr4 CAS and see how that goes. but a guy that does conversions for a living has told me it wont run properly and i need to swap everything to evo 1-3 or to get rid of the gsr loom and go vr4 loom and vr4 ecu.

just the thing im after is has anyone done this conversion with evo ecu gsr loom and vr4 ignition points and sensors etc.


also.. what should be upgraded along with putting a wastegate in, and do you have to get it tuned as i was just going to bolt it straight on and put a screamer pipe and vacuum line back to intake

im a bit hung over so sorry if some of this doesnt make sense lol.

The guy who is doing it doesn't know much about these cars.

[Liberoz]

Ditto on that/\

Believe me there would be more collective experience & DIY information on Mitsu conversions on here.

Dare I say you don't need to listen to that bullshit coming from that so called conversion guru he doesn't know shiite

Its all here, and so is all the help you need, just do yourself a favour and read what we point you to, and I'd even say print it out and have a copy in the garage as your doing it, then it will be a walk in the park.

[GSRONP]

yeah man this forum is bloody brilliant im just gutted i didnt find it earlier haha.

WILL UPDATE ON MONDAY AFTER HAVE REWIRED VR4 CAS

MUCH APPRECIATED GUYS!!!

[GSRONP]

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!


ok well..
i finally recieved my evo 3 injectors ( which i was waiting for to get the car started)

i put them in, hooked up another car to the battery and attempted starting it.

first of all i noticed that the timing was out and it had alot of trouble starting.

anyone know what i could do to fix this?

And then apart from that.. the car started up ran fine. blowing smoke.. which i thought would be normal since it hasnt been run in 7 months.
then 30 mintues later.. still smoking. too much compression and creamy oil.

BUT there was no creamy oil when i took off the oil cap i only found creamy oil and compression coming from the dipstick..
my first thought was blown head gasket..

please let me know your suggestions and thoughts on this matter and what i should do ( not very wealthy at the moment )??


relating to the timing issue..
i ran the set up like this...
gsr afm
evo1 chipped ecu
evo 3 injectors
gsr wiring loom
vr4 sensors
vr4 engine.
gsr coil pack and TPS.

i was told there is something in the above list that i need to swap around to make the timing better.. it ran and idled smoothly but would not start by itself needed the jump pack.

Any help/suggestions/ideas is much appreciated

Cheers,
Ben

[GSRONP]

and also i havint replaced the gsr LH driveshaft with a vr4 one?? should i do this ??
thanks guys.

[Evo-00x]

First of all change the GSR afm for one from an EVO.

The milky crap just does not make sense. Sounds like you've got some water or something mixed into the oil so immediately drop the oil out and inspect it, also change the oil filter.

Look for oil mixed up in your radiator water, or blowing out the exhaust to suggest a headgasket problem.

To change your timing is easy. Remove your spark plugs and ensure they are set on a 0.8mm spark plug gap first then put them back in. Then grab a timing gun and connect it to number one spark plug lead, the power to the battery and the earth onto the bolt at the top of your strut tower. Next earth out the timing plug (its a brown/tan looking plug in between your brake booster and the manual transmission hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir). You need to hook an earth up to this plug in order to time your motor otherwise its not going to work.

Then undo the bolts on the crank angle sensor, start the car and move the crank angle sensor slowly forward or backward until the timing marks on the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) aligns with 5 degrees on the black plastic notch on your timing cover. Then tighten up the crank angle sensor nuts and turn engine off and remove the timing gun and un-earth the brown plug.

[GSR-747]

First of all change the GSR afm for one from an EVO.

The milky crap just does not make sense. Sounds like you've got some water or something mixed into the oil so immediately drop the oil out and inspect it, also change the oil filter.

Look for oil mixed up in your radiator water, or blowing out the exhaust to suggest a headgasket problem.

To change your timing is easy. Remove your spark plugs and ensure they are set on a 0.8mm spark plug gap first then put them back in. Then grab a timing gun and connect it to number one spark plug lead, the power to the battery and the earth onto the bolt at the top of your strut tower. Next earth out the timing plug (its a brown/tan looking plug in between your brake booster and the manual transmission hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir). You need to hook an earth up to this plug in order to time your motor otherwise its not going to work.

Then undo the bolts on the crank angle sensor, start the car and move the crank angle sensor slowly forward or backward until the timing marks on the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) aligns with 5 degrees on the black plastic notch on your timing cover. Then tighten up the crank angle sensor nuts and turn engine off and remove the timing gun and un-earth the brown plug.

Is there a way to do this without using the harmonic balancer as a reference as I kno mine is not accurate, could I perhaps use a data logger to set it?

[Liberoz]

The alignment marks on any harmonic balancer are accurate enough if you don't have access to a data logger.
Always pays to hit your timing mark on harmonic balance with a white paint marker over the mark then wipe the rim leaving a clean easy to see mark on the balancer, same goes for the BTDC marks on the lower timing cover