Seano_boi

Otherwise I don't really understand what u meant.

i was in a bit of a frustrated and p!ssed off fluster before , and i think i used the wrong words . basically what its doin is that you can do what ever you want to the pedal after about 2 hours from bleeding ect and the pedal makes no difference to anything . car acts as if you have not pressed the clutch at all , no gears just grinds , lol ! .

I have just done a bit or an order from Meek cos they had all the sh!7 on the shelf ready to go . i just got these parts and bron is sending them up , ill get them soon i hope it fixes it , what do you guys reckon about these bits ? .

Revised Pedal Box
Master Cylinder
Braided Line
Slave Cylinder

so then this thread about actually bleeding the different types will come in handy and i can hand the tread back after my desperate hijacking , lol . . . Cheers for understanding about that too

if you give it a bit of a flick with the big toe the pedal springs straight back up . its the clutch not disengaging to allow starting and stopping that is the problem . and not matter how well you bleed its still a problem .

do you guys do the bleed trick where you bleed it as normal , once your done you get the pedal held down , crack the bleeder , and push the rod back in and squeeze the rest of the fluid out the bleeder that way ? . . .if you know what i mean ? . . . i had to do this on my mates Toyota but have not had to with the Mitsu . . . should i try this ? .

+1

Also GTPumps does variants of the Evo 3 turbo in 16 /18 / 20 G if you are wanting to push the envelope . . . Most logical upgrade path i believe .

sorry for the revive . also sorry if its a HiJack

i have the stock GSR setup , same as in the top picture , today I was driving along happy and fine then my clutch stuck to the floor and never came up . just like that with no indication .

i drove home doing key starts ( only 2 times thankfully cos i hate it ) and just took the way i didnt have to stop and i drove clutch-less shifts ( lucky i can change gears without a clutch , blame the truck for that one , ) . i went through all the checks once home . no leakage either inside or outside on the MC , the flexible line attached to the clutch has no leaks . i found a little bit of leakage at the slave , tightened the hard line fitting at the slave and all seemed good . bleed it up fine and drove it and it was sweet , a nice pedal .

I figured it was right after a drive so I stopped , gave myself a wash up , cooked and ate dinner , then a shower ready to go out . probs took maybe 2 hours all said and done from when i stopped to when i went to use the car to go out .

i hopped it the car to drive away and i got no further than 2 streets from my house and then the pedal went to the floor then stayed there again ! . . .

i have visually checked / inspected the MC , Soft line between the MC and the steel line , the hard line slave fitting and also the slave its self and they all seem to check out and the whole system bleeds up and get pedal just fine . . . only cant hold it .

Thinkin Hat well and truely on ! . . .

im thinking an air leak into the system but there is no obvious place to start . has anyone else experienced this and if so what was the problem and your soloution . . . before i wind up replacing things and still have the problem ? . I would like to be able to use my car ! .

i believe some people say that its due to the shock loading during hard launches and the applied torque loading . and others say its not . . .

there is merits in both sides of the argument , i try steer clear of it to tell you the truth because everyone you talk too seems to have a different take on what causes crank walk ! ? !

I had a Exedy 3 puck paddle clutch in mine a fair while back , it was quite harsh and i ended up having to go to solid mounts to help stop the engine swinging around ! . after heaps of heavy driving / track days i never had a problem as far as crank walk is concerned . Engine was spool forged with big 16 g and all the goodies . . . i was running an NA crank in that motor because when the engine machinist measured everything up after i spun a bearing i was told that i had 'walk' in the first place and that the crank was unusable cos of the spinner ! . . . And i had a standard clutch at that time with not even a boost increase and they told me i had walk , so its got me beat ! .