milkandoj

Good info on minimizing clutch drag leading to bad shifting at high rpm on single plate clutches.

http://www.jackstran...-kills-synchros

Things to consider if buying a twin plate

http://www.jackstran...shrooming-rings

Clutches TMZ performance sells/reccomends for various applications, have a read.

http://www.tmzperfor...utch Parts.html

Nice work. Shit if you bought it back 18 months ago, my cars been sitting in the shed for ages now. i popped my motor and lost interst about the time you bought you car again. Ive had 2 gf's that have never seen it drive lol

Just a random idea, i considered slotting a hole though the back next to one of the existing bolts, and installing another bolt (on say just 1/5 of the bolts), that way if it slips it hits the second bolt and reduced how far it can slide. It might only go say 6-8* rather than the full 12*.
Likely you only need to adjust the cams no more than say 6* retarded (unless the head or block is skimmed a lot) so this would lock it from going 12 degrees retarded if it slips.

Hiring a dyno, how easy is it operate and not waste time figuring out how to use it?
Im used to street tuning the ecmlink. Ive thought about it to dial my cams in (especialy on the new motor in the future) and experiment with differnt slightly differnt afr's.
I have an idea of what works from the data on the street just though it'd be interesting to run a few differnt tunes on the dyno.

Clean them up and try sell them for 4 times what you paid for them lol

"Do you know who i am?"

Lol this has been posted before but this joke made me think of this video.

I would think first to express an interest has the first call as they have expressed interest, and if they don't take it then the next person in line can have a go.

Otherwise you cant ask any questions and just have to say you'll take something without knowing the details.

If this is the system there will be more sellers getting stuffed around from sales falling though and more confusion after that happens to who is next in line, as people will ask for the info they need after saying they will take it. Then realize its not suitable.

Id say first to post up or PM the seller has dibs.

That's just the way Ive taken it. Not here to start a keyboard war.

Here's some measurements to help identify what dump pipe (O2 housing) you have. I found info hard to find so i took pics at times when Ive had them side by side.
A quick way to narrow it down on the car, drop the front pipe off and measure the outlet on the O2 housing/dump pipe, evo3 is 61mm ID.... vr4 and evo1-2 are 55mm ID.

Note the differences also between the inner and outlet lip on the joins with the O2 housing, and the exhaust housing.These are often easily ported, such as removing the flame ring between exhaust manifold and exhaust housing. And the exit from an O2 housing where the front pipe bolts up.
So the inner lip is what limits your flow, and can easily be ported out to the outer lip size, in both cases.

O2 housings/ Dump pipes

VR4:
Main entry behind exhaust wheel: 55mm
Outlet to front pipe (outer lip): 55mm
Outlet to front pipe (Inner lip) 50mm


Evo 1-2:
Main entry behind exhaust wheel: 63mm
Outlet to front pipe (outer lip): 55mm
Outlet to front pipe (Inner lip) 50mm


Evo 3:
Main enrty behind exhaust wheel: 63mm
Outlet to front pipe (outer lip): 61mm
Outlet to front pipe (Inner lip) 57mm


The exhaust housing outlet size matches the entry into the O2 housing. The evo 1-2 and evo 3 are the same size in to match the 070 housing.
The vr4 inlet is smaller to match the 060 housing outlet.

The differences i can see with the evo 3 dump. (See pics in post below.)
Its very close to 2.5 inch on the outlet.
The flange surrounding the outlet is larger allowing for more porting potential.
You can easily port the inner lip out to 2.5 inch. Or you can take it out further. 2.75 inch looks achievable, some get it close to 3 inch apparently. But you'd be getting close to the edge of the flange and need some material for the seal.
I also ported inside the inside of the bend behind the exhaust wheel, where it comes in around the bolt holes. To keep it as close to 2.5 inch internally. This along with the 2.5 inch outlet porting is the basic porting, then you can spend more time from there.
The merge of the wastegate passage is also smoother than the other 2.


While we are at it some exhaust housing measurements.
060
Entry from exhaust manifold, (Outer lip) where the flame ring sits inside: 54mm
Entry from exhaust manifold, (Inner lip) to match inside the flame ring: 46mm
Outlet behind exhaust wheel into o2 housing: 52mm

070
Entry from exhaust manifold, (Outer lip) where the flame ring sits inside: 60mm
Entry from exhaust manifold, (Inner lip) to match inside the flame ring: 53mm
Outlet behind exhaust wheel into o2 housing: 61mm

I was asking if that was the same set of rims you are selling that you recently bought.
The quote i posted was directly form the thread i posted the link to below the quote.

But it seems someone has been through and deleted that post in the thread today. Coz its not there any more.

I dunno whatever i was only asking a question. maybe it was another set?

I love tarmac's and was only asking a question about the item for sale.

1. It doesn't matter how much I paid for them, or when I got them, or where I got them.
2. If your not going to buy them or make an offer then don't post
3. milkandoj - whats with the link?

do you go into your local shops and ask the guys selling stuff how much they paid for it?

if anyone is going to ask any genuine legitimate questions about the wheels them please PM me.

Is it this set?

good luck finding a set, I just got my set, they arrived from japan last week, ended up paying around $650 for them landed, just need to powder coat them and put some tyres on them

http://www.4gtuner.c...__1#entry203752

Is it this set?

good luck finding a set, I just got my set, they arrived from japan last week, ended up paying around $650 for them landed, just need to powder coat them and put some tyres on them

http://www.4gtuner.c...__1#entry203752

Would a VR4 stock intercooler fit straight onto a GSR? and would it be worth it over an Evo intercooler?

Nope, unless its a vr4 evo cooler as they are the same as evo 1-3.

I posted the sizes on the bottom of this page, stolen from mmc.

basically it goes,
vr4 j-spec
vr4 evo, and evo1-3, same size.
then later evos 4 up are larger.

From what i could find they did improve them from evo 4 and 5 which had 22 air channels, where as the later ones like my evo 8 cooler has 25. off the top of my head it changed at evo 6. The info's hard to find i wish i had of written it down.

The problem you will most likely have with fitment is the height, while the evo 1-3 are 256 mm high, if you go a later evo cooler 4 onwards they are all close to 300mm high, depends who measures them, will this still easily bolt up in a gsr front, and not stick out the bottom?

In my vr4 this was what required me to play around a fair bit to get it to fit, it had to move up and therefore had to move backwards to fit, so it didn't stick out the bottom.

Look into this or it wont be as simple as an evo 1-3 cooler. have a measure up under the top of the bumper inside and see how much height you have to work with.

If by the sounds you not after massive power at this stage the evo 1-3 will be easily enough. And if you have to move things around to get the larger intercooler's to be able to sit back and up, you will save yourself a lot of stuffing around.


Intercooler Dimensions:

evo 1-3 intercooler:
256.2x470x65mm

evo 4-5 intercooler:
294x470x65mm

evo 6 intercooler:
289.5x470x70mm

evo 7 intercooler:
310?x470x70mm Im Pretty sure evo 7 isnt 310 high, so this probably wrong.

VR4 intercooler, core only.
205 x 420 x 65mm (HxLxD)
pipes? ~47mm or 1 7/8" I think

Here's an idea, get a screw driver and pull them out and THEN head to the parts shop! They will match them up in 5 seconds!

Not sit behind a computer and expect everyone to tell you everything!

Its a light globe!

I get old ladies bring me globes into work that have pulled them out themselves.

mine has 252k on it
repco & super cheap sell the basic stuff, also some decent German stuff which I use. cant remember the name sorry

Liqui Moly stop tappet

I use Nulon high flow/low friction 10-30 at the moment.

IMO that's too thin for these motors, if its a cold during winter where you are and you want a thinner oil you could go a 5W or 10W rating, but i wouldn't run a 10W30. The second number is the viscosity at 100 degrees, so its too thin when you at running temperatures and beating on the motor. stick with a 40 or 50

Id stick with a 5W40, if its cold, otherwise a 10W40, 15W40.
And if the motors a bit worn a 15W50 or 20W50

Unless its really cold where you are i would refrain from the lower W ratings.


And that Castrol edge 0W40 is a load of shit unless you live where it snows. They seem to want to impress people with oh look its 0W40! what a wide range oil! But its some on the ingredients added to make it a wide ranging multigrade oil that coke up under the heat of a turbo anyway. May suit some brand new hondas that want a really thin oil at start up but not our motors.
Their 5W30 is too thin unless you have a new car or honda.
And their 10W60, is only good if you putting a lot of heat in the oil and need a 60 rating to keep the viscosity right if your beating on it at a track and really heating it up. The xr6T's run it also, they must dump alot of heat to the oil.. Castrol edge range has nothing suited for our motor or climate.

Interested. Doesnt need to be bling as im going with a boring black theme and will probably paint it so i dont get hassled anyway.

Yeah once there a template getting multiples cut would be piss. Great idea.

Ive though about making one up, bunnings sell the sheet metal in a good size near me but this would be easyer!

Thas a bit too far isnt it?