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cael

cael

Member Since 02 Mar 2009
Offline Last Active Feb 14 2017 07:55 AM
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2001 Proton Satria GTi - NSW, AU - Unregistered

22 January 2017 - 12:41 PM

Hi all,

 

It is time for me to part with my little Satria that has given me so much joy over the years..

I would like to see the car go to someone who can make use of it, rather than straight to a scrap heap, so hopefully that someone is on these forums!

 

This car remains NA and has been heavily modded aiming to make the most out this NA engine without boosting.
Has done ~200,000 KMs
 
The main mods on this car include;
  • A Haltech E6X ECU (tuned to current setup by Just Engine Management in NSW @ 98KW ATW)
  • Ported/Polished cylinder head, 5 angled flowed valves, RPW heavy duty valve springs (replaced 12 months ago)
  • OS 60mm mechanical Throttle Body
  • Tighe Stage cams (272 degree lift, balanced well, no V8 lumpiness)
  • Adjustable cam gears
  • Lancer Evo GSR 1.8T 390cc injectors (flow tested and all seals replaced 2015 by Lube Mobile + EFI contractor in Bankstown)
  • Llightweight fly wheel
  • Walbro GSS-342 550L/h fuel pump
  • Oversize AEM fuel rail
  • RPW Fuel Pressure Regulator
  • Full 2.25" exhaust system
  • Custom 4-1 Hurricane headers through mandrel bent pipes
  • Wired in Varex with driver accessible operation switch - all installed and fitted by local Hills area exhaust experts.
  • Apexi "Power Intake" pod filter in a road legal "box"
  • Xtreme HD Clutch with close to, but less than,15000Km of motorway/sub-urban driving (clutch is somewhat heavy)
  • Evo 3 brake component upgrade (braided lines to slotted and ventilated rotors with twin pot calipers, plus 50% "Racing Brakes" RB74 pads - ABS is fully functional)
 
Other mods include;
  • Racing Logic (Fulcrum) height/rate/damper adjustable coilovers
  • front and rear 22mm Whiteline sway bars
  • front and rear Ultra Racing Strut Braces (4 point front, 2 point rear)
  • Ultra Racing upper C Pillar brace
  • Ultra Racing 3 point fender braces
  • Ultra Racing 2 point lower floor brace (not currently fitted)
  • Top Gun iridium leads (<2yrs old)
  • HKS wide grounding kit
  • Angel Eye LED front parkers, H4 lo beam projector headlamps, T9 parkers, blackened/smoked tail lights, blackened/smoked side indicators, blackened front indicators
  • Factory silver body except WRX Black painted bonnet, roof and spoiler
  • Recaro Millennium front seats (red)
  • Momo Racing steering wheel.
  • Dynamatt'd doors and boot well
  • a rare, near-ONE OF A KIND, rear bumper bar!
    Custom made for this car. There has only ever been 2 of these bars fabricated in the entire universe, so you ought to consider this bar well beyond extraordinarily rare!
    The other may still exist in QLD, somewhere...
Comes with stock rims with GTi centre caps, wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza Adrenaline RE001's (40000 Km on them)
Spare wheel is included, it is a stock GTI rim that has been powder coated black.
Also have the front tow hook cover for the car (rare as rocking horse sh!t).
 
Included also are brand new front fender panels (left and right, primed in black, unpainted), a rebuilt 4G93P gearbox (fully reconditioned, rebuilt and thoroughly cleaned, then powder coated in GTi rim silver, on a pallet and wrapped in plastic), all floor mats front n back, brand new OEM "CF Look" plastic dash surround, steering wheel, liberated radio din slot, fully functioning cabin controls (climate control, illumination, air current direction, 12v accessory, clock and hazard signals) and spacious - yet easily removable - glove compartment.
 
The negatives:
  • ODO ticks intermittently, so actual mileage is a guess really, but I only do about 10000 a year and it stopped a year ago at 187000.
  • Car runs like crap when it is cold, warming up is a must
  • Roof has rust along weld points, so I assume it was replaced by previous owner once upon a time - is repairable
  • Driver side paint needs some serious love
 
Pics, dyno run results, invoices... all can be posted here or PM'd directly as and when required.
Some pics will be added shortly in subsequent posts.
 

Accepting expressions of interest and offers, please PM me..

Cheers y'all!


rewiring engine control relay (to mitigate voltage drop in fuel pump when indicators fl...

25 June 2016 - 07:21 AM

Hey 4GTuner members! Its been a while since I last logged in here, haven't been interested in doing any DIY work on the proton for a while .. glad my account still works :-D

I am seeking advice in rewiring the engine control relay so it is powered directly off the battery, as currently it seems to be on a common circuit with the indicators and reverse lights, in that a very audible voltage drop occurs when the indicators flash or when I put it in reverse - very audible because I am running a Walbro, so she purrs very loudly when running.

I have located the relay behind the ash tray (thanks Rob!) but I don't just want to chop in a direct run from the battery without fully understanding the implications.

my intention is to run a pair of wires directly from the battery terminals to the relay (fused of course) so that the relay is on its own circuit.

I understand though that this relay is not just for the fuel pump and so I want to be cautious.

The relay is a 4 pin as per attached photos I took, it has the two "COIL" pins, one "COM" pin and one "NO" pin.

The NO pin has two wires, one larger wire (red) and a smaller wire (black w/red)
The COM pin has two wires, both the same gauge and colour (black w/yellow)
The COIL pin which is next to COM is one wire (black w/yellow)
The COIL pin which is next to NO is one wire (black w/blue)

There is continuity between the COM and COIL pins (both black w/yellow) and they are both constant 12v.
The COIL pin next to the NO pin (black w/blue) is a switched ground, if the key is On then I get continuity with the chassis and can read 12v against the constants.

The NO pin appears to be a ground as I read 12.5v when testing against either black/yellow constants, however there is no continuity when testing against my chassis grounding points.

The question is simple I think, what do I wire around to get this on its own circuit, powered directly from the battery?

Would I run a positive from the battery directly to the COM and COIL? (and just chop, splice together and tape up the car's existing black w/yellow wires?)

If the issue persists, I might need to re-check my grounds I suppose.

Hope someone can ease my brain, I know what I need to do but I have over complicated it in my mind and I need a second opinion! Have I missed something?

Any assistance will be appreciated!