turbovr4

Hi all, I had a possible idea on what might be happening here. Maybe the thread on the Evo's are a 20mm taper thread , which means if this top plate is a different design not allowing the filter to screw on using the full thread then you would only get the smaller taper thread trying to tighten up which would allow the thread to slip. Taper threads will allow the filter to start spin on easier and then progressively tighten up. That thread gauge he would be using is probably a parallel thread gauge. I know that everytime I change the oil filter on the ZR4, the first say 15mm of screwing the filter on, it is loose on the thread due to a taper thread design but the time it goes the full 25mm of travel, the thread is a tight fit even before the oil seal contacts. My idea is, if this top plate design maybe only lets you screw the filter on 15mm then you are still on the taper part of the thread. This is only an idea of the reason why, but of course doesn't solve the problems unfortunately.

Hi Eternazr,

The rear rack is just connected to the front rack with those two hydraulic pipes because the front rack is also the controlling valve for the rear rack. I found that out on my Eterna when the front rack blew a seal so to get mine rekitted it was an extra $100  over a normal rack rekit. The only time I had a shuddering in the rear end on mine was when my tailshaft uni joint seized, under hard acceleration or deceleration one of the back wheels felt like it was shuddering.

I had a real bad clattering in the Eterna when on deceleration but quiet on acceleration, you could hear it even with the window up when going past concrete barriers. Ended up being the DOJ joint in the tailshaft, I pulled it apart and the remains of grease had turned into a solid dry mass. Cleaned it up repacked it with grease and it has been silent for the last 12months.

I also had a vibration on what felt like the rear left wheel under hard acceleration, but that was just my centre bearings as they had sagged quite a lot.