turbovr4

I would do the dinner again, that was a great night last time. Might take the Eterna this time for something different, but no cruise for me as it is standard

Stick with it, I know it sometimes is frustrating, The VR4 powered MGB I have took me 2 months to fit the 4G63 motor in it but12months to get painted. I drove the car for10yr standard with crap paint, then 10yrs with crap paint and a turbo4G63 till I decided to paint it. But now I driven it everyday for about 10 months and love it. Even the Dirty old ZR4 Eterna I love, because it is something different and something I have worked on all by myself. Don't want to knock any other cars but I find Skylines are as common as Commodores on the road so now I don't think they are special. but how many GSR are around compared to EVO's, probably a lot less 

if you are really lucky, you can try a bearing place like CBC bearings. sometimes the same number is used on many vehicles. when I got a replacement for the VR4 the new part number is a bearing companies number not a Mitsubishi number.

forgot to mention one thing, you probably don't have knock control and if you use a standard distributor with vacuum advance IT WILL DETONATE the pistons above 6PSI, I was able to get a vac advance /retard module for mine which worked a treat, the dodgy way is to lock your mechanical advance weights so it can't advance the timing with engine speed, that way it advances timing before boost and when it hits boost it will retard back to your original setting.

Another carby that works with boost is a Weber 34/34ADM, you got them off the old ford XF falcons. they have a boost enrichment circuit and a sealed float chamber which other carbys don't have, this is crucial for push through turbo.

On all front wheel drive Mitsubishis, the floor pan tunnel looks big enough for a tail shaft, but when you get an AWD car then you see how that tunnel is almost twice as big as the front wheel drive car and will limit the tailshaft diameter. As far as independent rear ends go, thought about Starion?. Starions are independent rear end with a 1400mm track and have a diff that uses a V shape cradle to hold the diff centre in. The Starion wouldn't be much different in width to the cordia, but I haven't checked on this. JA Starions were 3.545 diff gears, JB and JD starions were 3.909 Diff gears.

when the FIAV is not hooked up to the water lines the hunting is caused by the car trying to idle above 1500RPM , if the idle switch on the throttle is on because the throttle is not being touched, then the injectors switch off (fuel saving technique ). the motor will then of course start to die until around 900RPM which then will switch the injectors on and the cycle starts again , hence the hunting. If you want to test that theory the disconnect the idle switch and the car wont cut out, it will rev high and the injectors will never switch off when coasting down hills etc. Oh and by the way I blocked my valve off in the MG by just removing the 3 bolt plate near the throttle and then screwing the seat for the valve all the way down, refit a the plate and perfect idle is now spot on with no water pipes connected. 

But on saying that , it doesn't sound like the problem which has been happening in this cars case.

Have you checked for a cracked inlet pipe, e.g airflow meter to turbo. mine cracked right in the concertina bit and the car would splutter and die on take off sometimes and other times was great.

Hi there, I am not sure about the 94 L300 vans. But all the early mid to late 80's L300 vans used small bolt up engines so the VR4 4G63 will go straight in if it is a small boltup pattern gearbox, and the early gearboxes were a rod linkage setup with two levers on the side of the gearbox which means that they wer van specific only. As far as manifolds are concerned, DOHC are completely different manifolds than the SOHC ones so you can't interchange between them. I think there was a guy on this site not long ago that I returned a reply about gearboxes because he had a van that he had already turbo'd. Try looking at some earlier posts as well.

I fitted an alarm with central locking to my Eterna a couple of years ago, My car has the Etacs body computer but there is a main central locking relay under the drivers side dash, from memory it switches on the negative side of the relay , so in other words you hook up new central locking unit negative wires to the relay Brown/white wire for lock, and Brown/blue for unlock. My alarm basically had two power wires and two negative wires for the alarms inbuilt central locking relays, so I hooked power to the alarm central locking relays then the negative side of them switch my eternas own central locking relay as described above.

The original Turbo Sigma box is an australian Borg Warner gearbox. I used to have one, it was a silver/black and a mate had a blue/black. They had a Astron 2.0l motor and borgwarner gearbox. You could tell the Borg Warner by the reverse gear being left and up and the rest of the H pattern normal,Also the gearbox should have a separate bell housing. Jap boxes are one piece bell housing to gearbox, with only the rear housing removable. Unfortunately the turbo sigma box wasn't any stronger than a jap box

yes you can ,you are correct with the tacho interface. Remember that the plug is different as well,a 3 pin for the non tach coils and a 4 pin for the tacho inface coils. if you want a tacho to work you can either swap the individual coils and still run the tacho interface ,or if your lucky you have a plug on the igniter pack with the extra white wire for a tacho pickup

Well ,I have started putting the MGB back together after i had to weld a lot of rust including the chassis.I have chosen the color of the car ,lotus elise azure blue with red pearl so i could spray the engine bay myself before the motor goes back in.Then i can drive to the paint shops for quotes.The car has been apart for 10 months now so finally starting the refitting of everything.As said before in a previous post,the car is a1962 MGB with a 89 jspec vr4 4g63,1980 lancer 5speed gearbox.The motor is stock but running a haltech E6x and has been like this for nearly 10years.with my own tuneup i got the car doing 13.6 secs at 100mph on 14psi at willowbank on 185 size tyres,and the car is 1050kg.

Heres the pics of my mount,i dug it up in my shed of spares

you can also use one of the old analouge multimeters,just set to 12v and watch the needle swing.i think from memory you should have a constant series of even pulses if everything is good.something bad is one long pulse then followed by the code pulses

Here are some pictures of the MGB with the VR4 motor.Before i put that motor in i used to run a DASH single cam 12 valve motor.good power but really bad fuel economy,like 18lt/100km.the vr4 at least gets 11lt/100km.
Before that car i used to drive a 1988 magna elite with the same vr4 motor and i also put a vr4 motor in my fathers starion for him.