blackvr

When we were using stock boxes in our Rally car, changing boxes was a regular thing in Service park. We used a trolley jack to manoeuvre it up if there were no he men service boys around. What helped were a couple of 100mm long 10 x 1.25 bolts. We used these to act as guides on the back of the block to help slide the gearbox back on square and into the clutch and block dowels.It was a lot easier than trying to use the stock bell housing bolts !

I'll try and send a pic of my tool tomorrow... I've been flat out getting us and customers ready for Classic Adelaide tarmac rally sorry. Mo... do not use pry bars ! 5th gears are hard enough to find these days without chipping them !!

Fuel filler necks are reversed. The actual mounting hole dimensions are the same

I have a pair of brand new RS shafts... however, they are in Adelaide

Wow... this thread sounds incredibly over complicated !!! It's so easy. Replace the open centre in your 4 bolt diff with a LSD centre from any of the Evo 1-9s. End of story. It is that easy !

Cheers Hendo... I'm actually in the loop with Mike and helping with advice !

I also have a complete set of housings ....E3 . I used the rotating  internals to convert a VR4 gearbox to an  E3 gearset

Mmmm... now I'm at a cross roads ! I was about to contact Matthias to have 2 x conversions for mine a and a friends gearbox. I've had a lot to do with straight cut and performance gearboxes. If you hadn't told me anything about the background with ENGINRs failure, I would have said the incorrect oil has been used. I had a similar failure, albeit not a Mitsubishi box, using (manufacturer recommended) a high end full synthetic gear oil. We were given a replacement gear set and I took the advice of a top level, old school open wheeler Race engineer. We had no consequent failures. He had similar experiences with the Formula Holden Hewland gearboxes.... in the end , he used el cheapo "Trac Trans " oil. Put simply, Tractor auto trans oil. Castrol do it as " AgriPlus" now. It has a high level of friction modifiers in it. For the last 20 years, I just haven't had any gear failures , or any marking or pitting.

Straight cut gears do have a high shear load on oil, unlike helically cut gears.

Have the affected gears of ENGINR been hardness tested ? I would be super interested ! The stock gears look great though !!
I have a bit to do with PPG, and luckily they are only 10kms from my shop ! It is very interesting they stopped recommending Redline gear oil and wouldn't honour warranty if it is now used. They recommend the Motul full synthetic Technosynthese. I have to admit, of all the dog boxes I have serviced in the last 3 years, and all using Motul, the gear condition has been faultless....

Wow, I'm not sure what to do now. The PAR gearsets are cheapish compared to PPG, and I am assured by a 3rd party that the quality of these gearsets has improved immensely since production has recommenced in locally, rather than overseas ... Any one with any specific experience ??

You guys make me laugh about cleaning gear boxes and blue gunk. You don't know anything until you have to strip a box and find that nasty blue goblin blood aka Redline Shockproof. I reckon I'll shoot the next chump I come across using this stuff. It literally takes hours to wash all this centrifuged plastic material out of small oil galleries etc. Very nasty job !

Mo, I cant find the dyno sheets... but yes, it was back to back on the same engine within a day. We were using a TD06-20G on E85 and around 27psi. The ASPEC manifold well and truly outperformed the Cyclone dual runner manifold after 4500 rpm. There were power gains ( worthwhile) under 3000 rpm on the Cyclone. We weren't that interested in under 3000 rpm, and were chasing power over all. We stuck with the ASPEC log manifold.

 

I mapped the Cyclone with one of the EGR outputs on the ECMTuning chips . A simple RPM vs Load trigger. Doesn't have to be that tricky ! And yes, the switch point was determined from the crossover point after running long vs short runners only

I made more power from 4000 rpm on with the NA/Aspec log type manifold, but gave away a little torque down low. However, running with E85 fuel, it really didn't feel any worse at the lower revs and light load areas

Nice one ! have they got any more ? I need one as well, as I reckon I've found all the limited units in Adelaide. I'm happy to ship here if you can lead me in the right direction. It's so much easier these days dealing just with 7 bolt stuff !! I was super lucky in finding a really early Nimbus at our U Pullit, but hell, they are hard to find !!

If you have altered MAF settings and injector scalings and light load mixtures ... the following can happen. The ECU wont go into closed loop if it is really lean ( or really rich ) at light load. Essentially, if it is really lean, it wont reach the trigger point of around 0.70 volts that trips it into closed loop. Likewise if it is really rich, the trigger point seems to be around 0.30V. at least that has been my observation when setting up new larger injectors with ECMTuning. It makes it very difficult to set up the latency values and Injector scaling when you cant log ... or check the data !!

It's pretty easy to hardwire the OBD1 connector in. Very easy to source the plugs from say a Pick a Part . You don't have to make it an irreversible change if you are clever !

I've had issues with RVR and Evo GSR/EVOs in the past. Everything appeared ok ... but no joy in connection. So I wired in directly to the ECU the OBD port and the reflash wire. Bingo hooked up straight away. I reckon you would have to strip the loom apart to see what the issue is !!