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- White Knight likes this
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warbo
#334062 RVR's are becoming rare!
Posted by
on 03 November 2016 - 04:09 AM
In ten years time most left will probably have roof rust (regardless of colour).
#294088 kakimoto exhaust
Posted by
on 06 February 2014 - 12:47 PM
I didn't mind the drone, but the neighbours hated it and pissed a few people off going up and down the high rise car park. From memory the box was about 450mm long. Still retained what looked like the factory floor heat shield. I guess mine got full of water sometime in its life.
- Hyper_Mike likes this
#294052 kakimoto exhaust
Posted by
on 06 February 2014 - 04:12 AM
Yep. Just finished getting rid of it. Supposed to be stainless steel but rusted out badly. Has a round bar across top for two mounts and a third at pipe join end. Very droney but fitted in easy.
- silvertop likes this
#286561 Anti theft
Posted by
on 11 October 2013 - 11:15 PM
I haven't had reverse gear for 2 years so even if they wanted to take my box of shit, they couldn't push it up the driveway!
- Benzo4gT likes this
#278227 4g93 sump gasket?
Posted by
on 08 June 2013 - 04:01 AM
I have never used a solid type gasket on the 4g93 or 4g63 sump, but have used whatever suitable heat resistant sealant was laying around (red, blue, or grey..........it will eventually end up black!)
But here is a tip I learnt from a guy who builds high performance 4g's for a living. Once you have applied the liquid gasket compound to either the sump or the bottom of the engine block and have placed the two together, dont immediately tension the the sump bolts right down all the way. eg. still leave around half a turn on the bolt so the sump can be fully tensioned the next morning if time permits.
Apparently this will enable more of the gasket compound to be retained for sealing purposes, as opposed to squeezing the shit everywhere (and inside the sump) when it is still "wet".
And if you want to do the job properly, then run a tap through the bolt holes in the block prior to applying your sealant to remove any old sealant, and therefore reduce the chance of cross threading a bolt later. just my 2c worth1
But here is a tip I learnt from a guy who builds high performance 4g's for a living. Once you have applied the liquid gasket compound to either the sump or the bottom of the engine block and have placed the two together, dont immediately tension the the sump bolts right down all the way. eg. still leave around half a turn on the bolt so the sump can be fully tensioned the next morning if time permits.
Apparently this will enable more of the gasket compound to be retained for sealing purposes, as opposed to squeezing the shit everywhere (and inside the sump) when it is still "wet".
And if you want to do the job properly, then run a tap through the bolt holes in the block prior to applying your sealant to remove any old sealant, and therefore reduce the chance of cross threading a bolt later. just my 2c worth1
- Widget likes this
