rvrhsr

Im pretty sure it says on the bottle, you put in in your oil and it takes up to 500km to work so need to leave it in there.
So common sense would also dictate some fresh oil would be best.

Its not like oil flush where you put it in and idle for 10-15min and don't drive it then dump it, this product you leave in.

Exactly.

I use it every oil change, along with the same brand of full synthetic 10W-40 oil - works great.

Just as I picked up a set of used 7 passenger wagon springs (~20% stiffer than the 3 door version), I realized that there is really nothing special about RVR's rear springs!

They are arpox 10-11" long and 375-448 lbs/in stiff (for 3-4 door, respectively) springs with 5" outer diameter. A simple eBay search showed abundance of 8" or 9.5" long springs, in any spring rate you want to run! Best of all, the price is around $60/pair!!!

I am looking to pick up some 8" long springs in 800-900lbs/in stiffness. I will update this tread with my results.

Hey Leon:

My set of 4 Cobra Springs (mentioned on pages 4-5 of this thread: http://www.4gtuner.c...me-information/ and here's the website catalogue page: http://cobrasprings....ubishi/rvr/2806) is about to become available (found a tuner here that is going to help me go Tein coilover; long story), if you're interested. I really don't know the exact stiffness specs (I'd guess about 30-40% stiffer than stock), but you could check with Mark at Cobra ([email protected]) to see if they'd be worth the shipping from here - I'd let them go real cheap, too, recognizing that.

Oil could have gotten on the threads as you took them out. The tips look ok, not covered in carbon from being too cold or tuning problems and not white from too much heat either.

Well, I have the holes just about as clean as I can get them without removing the head, so if that's the case, it would indicate that there's oil coming from somewhere that shouldn't be there, right? As you noted from the condition of the tips, I really don't think it's unburned combustion chamber residue - although the exhaust does smell a bit rich, there's no real evidence on the plugs, and none from the running condition of the engine. Going to try this:

Stock id go back to the recommended 6 heat range and see how they look after a service period. Might just be a case of too cold a plug for your application.

After reading this thread, that's what I began to think. I don't know that it would have anything to do with the oil on the threads, but it's worth a try, so I'm going to try to find some NGK copper 6's (easier said than done, here) and run them for about 5k and report back. Thanks for the responses and suggestions, and keep 'em coming if you think of something else.

Were all the plugs tight? As in correct torque? Looks as if some may have been loose indicated by the wet threads. The tips are clean enough. does the black deposits smell like fuel or oil?

Had them torqued at 25 lb-ft (upped it to 28 when I reinstalled them, thinking along those lines), so I don't think looseness was the issue.

Very slight fuel smell at the tips.

Reading through this thread got me pulling my plugs to check them out. I'm running Denso IW22 (iridiums, heat range equivalent to NGK BPR7EIX) in a totally unmodified RVR HSGR motor, 188,000 kms., and the plugs have 8,000 kms. of use. The motor seems to idle fine (a bit low sometimes, but I think this is due to very unstable/capricious climatic conditions here), and run fine at all speeds, with the only irregularity being a very slight "stumble" when "blipping" the throttle up to about 4 grand while parked, after the motor is warmed - it's so slight that it's hard to describe.

Anyway, what has me posting is that plugs from cylinders 1, 3, and 4 all seem to have a very light sheen of oil on the threads when I pulled them; plug 2 is bone dry. There isn't any oil apparent on any other part - electrode, ceramic base, etc. Any idea what would cause this?

Attached pix: first of all four (in 4-3-2-1 order); 2nd is plug 2 next to plug 1; last is plug 4, plug 3

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