omad

As far as i was aware the rs models that properly didn't have the 4ws had the arms fixed, not like the 4ws models ? I know about the passive rear steer but the us dsm cars were also released with no 4ws in the rear (passive or otherwise) and they just change the rear end over to eliminate the 4ws. I really can't see them going to all that effort when they could just remove the rack.

I haven't had a close look at an rs, early or late, so can only take your word for it. But there's also the possibility the rear was replaced due to damage at some point over the cars 25+ years.

It just seems a bit redundant that just about everything I've ever come across with 4ws removal on these cars has involved locking the rear arms, especially for competition, if simply removing the rack does the same job.....

Have a 4 bolt diff i want to put in but has no hole for the 4ws pump.

Does anyone still have a removal kit they'd like to sell or know of one that works with the Galant?

Also, has anyone tried simply looping the lines where the 4ws pump goes and what effect does it have? Would be good for a temporary fix so i can get it rolling again and bed the clutch in etc.

if you don't already know this trick - space the 2 spanners as seen in the pic so that bringing them together will undo the connection, then use the grip on both your hands to do just that. Just be mindful that this applies a lot of force and makes it much easier to strip the nuts. A good set of the hose spanners is a great investment, the cheap ones will just flex open and strip the nuts.

 

Get the whiteline front castor bushes, biggest and cheapest single change to reduce the understeer. K-Mac also still do adjustable strut tops, their quality control lacks a bit, but the adjustment you get is pretty massive. I think Noltec used to do some strut tops as well that are pretty good if you can find a set. Note that the tops are going to be limited if you are not running coilovers, as the big stock spring can only move so far in the shock tower.

 

I've got the 26mm rear sway bar, the nolethane bushes for the rear subframe from galantvr4.org (american site), front castor bushes, front fully adjustable strut tops and bilstein coilovers. The rear is REALLY planted. The sway bar and those bushes were about equal in the difference they made. Front in comparison now feels a little 'floaty' and I've been wanting to look into how to make it feel a bit more steady. I've avoided stiffening up the front as most people say it tends to increase understeer rather than reduce it.

 

The other thing that makes a massive difference is a rear LSD. Pushes so much harder out of a corner and so much more predictable. Open diff tends to suddenly snap into oversteer and snap back when you push it too hard, whereas LSD will be really gradual and you'll feel it long before the rear tries to start overtaking you.

Can vouch for those custom bushes for the rear, they work a treat. From memory Mitsu don't even list them as a replacement, but it's been a while. Burning the old bushes out can be a bit of a pain, but it works. Rear of the galant is tight as a drum after installing them!

Man, I'd really like to get it back up, if only to get as much info as I can back off it. A shit ton of things on there that I still refer back to, only reason I've been dormant is because of ongoing issues and trying to get the gvr4 back on the road. if there's any way to get it back up or get a snapshot of it or something, I'm keen to pitch in. the stuff on there is invaluable to a VR4/4g63 owner!

Name: Mitsubishi Galant VR4 (1991)
Date Added: 15 July 2012 - 09:10 AM
Owner: omad
Short Description: None Provided

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